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Steph'Ney Thames
Newbies to sailing, experienced in exploring! We are both from UK, moved to Canada back in 2020 and haven't stopped exploring yet! Currently on Vancouver Island - Just bought our first sailing vessel! Learning the ropes as we sail a loop around Vancouver island before heading south to Baja! We would love to meet new friends!
Is that how the saying goes? 😅 We wanted to get some distance in today with the aim of getting towards Ucluelet in a weeks time. The forecast made promises of northerly winds… they were southerly?! So we headed away from land and tacked in towards the Yellow Bluff Bay until there was zero wind so we had to motor the last hour or so! We saw ANOTHER whale! This time he kept his distance, on his path. The beautiful humpback sprayed which alerted us to him and we made sure we didn’t cross his path as he went on his way! Another beautiful anchorage tonight- we pal. On staying here a couple of nights to explore the beaches and then catch the forecasted wind further down the west coast Vancouver Island.
We set off nice an early this morning, with beautiful views of our anchorage -looked like a mirror. But we knew it would change once we started rounding the Brooks Peninsula! With high winds forecast, we were ready for a wild day of sailing! All in all, it was a very comfortable passage, with winds not reaching the forecast numbers, we sailed with our Genoa, main and mizzen all the way up. Crossing the top of the peninsula, after some back and forth with the wind direction not making its mind up, we set the Genoa on our whisker pole with the main initially to make most of the wind we had on a deep broad reach. Eventually narrowing it down to just the Genoa for the final part of the journey. But I can’t leave out the important parts… We had a couple of orcas passing through our path a few times, but they didn’t get too close luckily. But then the final hour or so of our journey, Lizzie was on helm when the sound of a wave came. Upon looking- a mid-size humpback whale surfaced, touching side to side with our boat! We had no idea he was here! It happened to fast but by the time Lizzie could call ‘BILL THERES A WHALE’ the whale resurfaced. Still touching the boat and sprayed, soaking us and the cockpit. Luckily, I think it was coincidental that we both crossed paths as he continued his path immediately! Now we are anchored in another beautiful spot of Vancouver island, we are going to have a proper shower with fresh water, after the whales unexpected salty shower!
Leaving our anchorage on a beautiful morning, we headed into the open waters and rounded into our next anchorage at Klaskino Inlet. Once we were out far enough we managed to catch b just enough windy to set our Genoa, main and mizzen before leaving Monty (our monitor WindVane) to do the hard work. An hour or so in, we decided to take down our main as it seemed to be blocking the wind from our Genoa. With just the Genoa and mizzen, Monty steered us towards the inlet with 30knt gusts at times but it was a comfortable ride! We also managed to do some fishing along way with success! The anchorage is just beautiful and maybe one of the most peaceful and scenic we’ve been to around the island so far. Pure tranquility emphases the freedom we have to do this.
After a walk along the Boardwalk at Winter Harbour to stretch our legs on land, we moved further out of the inlet towards the entrance/exit so we were nearer the mouth for leaving in the morning. We were out for a while, tried fishing from the boat and from Ducky (our dinghy) but the current and wind was too strong for the relaxing fishing we were hoping. Result: no fish supper today! But we did have a cheeky otter standing by making sure we didn’t catch his dinner! Truest grateful to be spending this time in the open.
Leaving Sea Otter Cove, our first stop was at San Josef Bay. Anchoring was easy, dinghy to shore was short and we had spectacular views of our boat from the beautiful white sandy coastline as we had a mini picnic. A reminder that we are so lucky to have this freedom surrounded by beautiful nature. Upon leaving, we used our reefed Genoa with our whisker pole to head downwind further along the west coast of Vancouver Island. This was a perfect opportunity for us to use our Monitor WindVane for the first time! (We’d got the instrument itself from marketplace for a great price as it did not come with the wheel adapter attachment- so Billy made us one for under $100 - instead of the $500 new). We were very surprised how quickly and accurately it steered us- probably better than we could’ve done ourselves! We had 30kt gusts with big rollers from the Pacific- and it was the first time we were both comfortable in this strong of a wind as it steered us so smoothly. The monitor wind vane is our new best friend, so much so that we’ve named it ‘Monty’. Taking a turn into Winter Harbour, we took over the helm, furled our Genoa and carefully steered our way around the hidden rocks until we found our anchorage! Hopefully tomorrow we have time to visit the store here and go for a wander! For now, we will enjoy all the otters that are floating by!
Having met up with our friends on St.leger, we had a wonderful evening with their story’s and helpful tips and tricks for when they had sailed the world over the last 33 years! In the AM they waved us goodbye as we exited the bull harbour and motored over the Nahwitti Bar and around the most northern point of Vancouver Island! With not much wind, we then used our whisker pole and dropped the engine to slowly trawl with some fishing rods (few good bites but no catches im afraid). When we hit the corner of the entrance to Sea Otter Cove, we had to be careful as it can be tricky in the high winds (and it did get windier!) due to many hidden rocks and narrow entrance. Billy sawfly guided us in to the cove, past the beautiful island and rock formations and together we hooked up a storm mooring and got inside just as the winds have started howling! Now time for nice home cooked dinner and a shower!
Set off mid morning and motored to Bull Harbour, the last stop before we cross the Nahwitti Bar tomorrow! Smooth sailing with a few rollers coming in from the Pacific and caught up with our new friends on sv St.Leger en route! Now both anchored up at the far end on Bull Harbour, hopefully get prepared and a good sleep tonight before a long day tomorrow!
Leaving port hardy, we immediately reefed our main and Genoa, sailing for the most part of the first 2 hours. The sun was shining, but the gusts were up to 20kts with swirling tides. Wanting to anchor before sunset, we retired the sails for the last part of the journey and found a Beautiful place to anchor just on the other side of Nolan Point. We’re one step closer to rounding the North point of the island!
We’ve been sat in Port Hardy for a couple of days now, and today was the first opportunity we had to safely take out our friends and give them a taster of what it’s like to sail! We just jived and tacked our way around the bay for a couple of hours with a double reefed main and reefed Genoa. Finn & Caitie we’re stuck straight in, helping manually bring up the anchor, getting a feel for what it’s like to be at the helm and helping with tightening those sheets! Big kudos to them as it was their first ever time- they nailed it! Then back to anchor outside Seagate Pier, and a dinghy back to land for a coffee before departing our ways! Hopefully we can see them again on the coast to give them another day out and to catch up!
Starting the morning with a top up of fuel, water, garbage dump at Port Mcniell, we headed out further North to Port Hardy. It was a great sailing day, albeit with the Northwesterly’s, we tacked our way into Hardy Bay with a double reefed main and Genoa. With the 20-25knt winds, choppy sea’s meant Lizzie had her first batch of seasickness as Billy took the helm for majority. As we approached port hardy, the wind died down, and we motor sailed (or PAS as we’ve been told it’s called?) into the bay. Given how large the Bay Area is, it’s not a protected as we thought, but seeing a familiar boat rafted, we anchored just behind them. It gets shallow quickly after the sea plane takeoff area, so Lizzie got some good practice manually brining up that anchor a couple of time before. we got the right spot! Now it’s time to dry all our bedding whilst the sun is out, as we left the portholes open in the v berth, and the waves were fierce enough to enter and soak through- another thing we’ve learnt to check before heading out! All in all, today was a good experience for us before heading around the most northern point - the feared Cape Scott! Oh. And we saw two sea otters and a whale tail!
A very still Morning with distant fog in the channel, we made our way up a couple of hours to Port McNeill! Nice and Easy anchorage outside the port itself. We had a quick trip in the dinghy to town to visit the brewery and send off some parcels. Coming back to the boat with accidental purchases of chip n dips, cheeses and a chocolate cake, we are taking a cosy evening in tonight as the weather is dull. Tomorrow we will explore the local cafes etc more. Facilities at the harbour here seem very good!
With the northwesterly headwinds, we waited at the broken islands to rest up for a day of doing nothing in the sun. We then ventured back out and FINALLY got our sails back out to tack our way up the Johnstone Straight. Wanting to arrive before dark, we popped the motor back on for the second half. We sheltered for the night at anchor in a beautiful bay just before Telegraph Cove.
With a headwind, we decided to motor rather than tack the whole way. It’s a sunny morning to start which always always a good day! We have anchored for the day in the broken islands to wait for slack tide. Beautiful scenery here amongst the smaller islands!
Yesterday we set off out of our anchorage into one of the most dangerous stretches of water! It was a calm start, albeit very eerie as the fog sat upon the channel. With large ships emerging from the fog as though out of no where, we set our AIS so others could see us. It was beautifully quiet with nothing but white faded around us. Once we anchored for the night in Otter Bay, we awoke in the AM to light rain, but visibility was clear, from there heading to our first stop of the day to wake for slack tide before continuing. Turning into West Humpback Bay we made use of the storm bouey as we were the only ones here and only stopping through the daytime- this saved us time setting anchor etc and was good practise as Lizzie’s first time hooking up a bouey to Moore. The su made an appearance whilst here, giving Billy a chance to check off a few projects on our list, before heading out again at 5:30pm towards Sayward! The tidal current en route was forever changing but it was good experience and both of us felt in safe hands in our Pearson. A few waves covering our bow, we are now safely anchored opposite Sayward, in Nichols Bay on the west tip of Hardwicke Island.
After a couple of days catching up with our friend Jamie and meeting new friends along the way, we left our anchorage on Quadra Island and had a straight run to our anchorage tucked behind Maud Island. This is directly next to the infamous Ripple Rock (google if you don’t know- it’s interesting!) there was a small pontoon here which we anchored near but during our stay two other boats did dock for the night- we are unsure if this is a public or private dock.
We are anchored at Quadra island for a few days to connect with some friends! Having met new friends earlier that day, we then took out the boat for a few hours to give our good friend Jamie some Experience out on the water. Once we were out in the open, it was apparent there wasn’t much chance for getting the sails out unless we went afar (this wouldn’t have worked with our timings). So instead, as it was such a Beautiful day, we just floated around, listened to some chilled music, ate food and relaxed! It’s exactly what we all needed and to catch up was fantastic! Also giving Jamie a chance to sleep overnight on the sailboat for the first time! He’s now joined up to SeaPeople, hoping to get a boat and looking for some more experience out on the water!
After meeting new friends at squirrel cove, from this app, who told us about the amazing encounters we were going to have, we were excited to get back on the water! It had been great sharing stories with them and also adventures out on a hike that took us on a large loop on the island around to the lagoon! Once we were out in the main open water, we were able to turn off the engines and let the breeze take us…. But most importantly… the whale encounter!! The humpback swam closer and closer until he was directly besides us before swimming underneath to go join the rest of his family! It was certainly an adrenaline rush as we threw on our life jackets in worry that it was so close, mixed with the amazing feeling that this beautiful Mammal had come this close! Glad to say he was just curious and we were sailing so no motor to scare him! Theres plenty more footage and photos that will be uploaded to our other socials in due course!
Motor sailing some of the way, we have moved over to Cortes Island! Having seen recommendations for squirrel cove, we’ve anchored up opposite the entrance to the cove. Beautiful spot and we hope to check out the store etc that are here!
To try a different anchorage to help charge our solar, we had our genes up for all of 3 minutes then motored just to around the corner to another anchorage - marked as Cassel Falls Alternative on Navionics. Wait of uk spot with various trails to the lakes! Can’t wait to explore here!
Having to unfortunately motor the whole way with no wind, we stopped off at refuge cove for groceries and water refill, then continued to head around to explore Teakerne Arm! Wow! The bay is beautiful! With a waterfall with super easy access, we got some awesome footage in Our dinghy. There is also a dinghy dock here and a short walk (slightly rocky) to Cassel Lake which is perfectly wonderful for a swim! We also have a family of otters not too far from the boat!
Similar to the last anchorage, so not restricting our times we anchored JUST before the reef which was perfect! Nice still night to get a good nights sleep after we took the dinghy to one of the hikes- this one was a definite scramble, and not the half hour that we had read- but when you’re living on a boat you’ll take any excersise you can get! Next morning we also explored the easy trail from the anchorage to Black Lake- despite being early morning Lizzie took the chance to go for a swim without the worry of the jellyfish! Our anchorage had beautiful views all day and night!
We were holding off in our initial anchorage for the rain to die down so we could get another hike in. But the forecast just kept changing and the rain didn’t stop. So we moved on in the afternoon to the next anchorage beside Eveleigh island. The original aim was to go only a few minutes further into prideaux haven, but you can only cross the bar into there at certain times, so not wanting to be restricted as to when we move on, Eveleigh was perfect for us for the night- plus we were the only ones! Prideaux was busy!
Part motor, part sail. It was a quick journey from Refuge Cove to our first anchorage in Desolation Sound. Despite the overcast weather, we are luckily that the rain held off until we arrived. The landscape was amazing as we passed many islands that we’d never seen before. Stern ties were available at this anchorage and so we gave it a go for the second time as the first time at the previous anchorage we had not put enough chain for high tide. The rain has now started for the evening, so an evening on the boat is ahead of us so stay warm and dry!
With no wind we did motor to Refuge Cove. As it was an overcast day it was not busy which meant it was easy for us to get a spot! Offering 4 hours free moorage so you can tie up, do laundry ($4 a wash/ $2 dry) and shower ($5). All facilities were nice and clean! While we waited for our laundry we had an amazing freshly baked cinnamon bun, coffee and chips n salsa at the restaurant. The general store was vey well stocked from fishing gear, to gifts, to food -they have it all! All staff very friendly, too! We were also able to fill our water tanks (complimentary but they do have a donations pot in the store to contribute). Then off we went to our anchorage!(see next journey)
We are aiming to be in Desolation in a couple of days, so on our route we have pulled into Copeland Island Marine Park. We motored here but it didn’t take long as no wind and barely any tide. The anchorage is quiet, some wake as people pass by on way to Deso but nothing extra! There are various stern ties here and so we have used one for the time today!! Now time to enjoy the peaceful sound of nature :)
Going with the tide, we set all our sails and headed out of Powell River for a straight run to Savary Island. As we approached the island, the wind died and so we had to motor in to the north side to our anchorage. At first sight we thought it was very busy but we anchors at the further end next to the reef where majority of the boats were stored, not necessarily occupied. Taking our dinghy to the dock, we hiked up to go down the trail to South beach which was just perfect! The community there seems chill and we had a great time exploring the beaches. Theres also a restaurant and village store not too far of a walk from the government dock. Overnight, the water was like a pond with a beautiful peaceful sunrise whilst the seal and sea life swam past us during our morning coffee. There is a ref here and we managed to risk it and anchor right next tot he drop of the reed- at low tide we kept an eye on it! Beautiful spot and was a great sail!
Downwind majority of the way, we tested our whisker pole for the first time! Wow it made a difference! Averaging 5.5-6kts The winds carried us successfully majority of the way; Loosing wind at blubber bay, then hit with a 20knt headwind which we tacked til we had a straight run to our destination-just between Willingdon beach campsite and Westview harbour in Powell River. Taking a dinghy (Ducky) to shore, the lady at west view harbour was very friendly and let us moore up Ducky so we could go stock up provisions- a 20 minutes walk to all the stores (grocery,clothes,hardware…most importantly Dairy Queens). On returning to the boat in Ducky, we saw some BIG sprays from the other side of the bay- the whales are here! Question: anyone know how to prevent this black/grey staining on the deck?? (Last picture) It suddenly appeared so we spent a few hours scrubbing it off today
Yes. You read the title correctly… but it’s purely factual! It was raining the whole passage but we were with the waves and the wind was in our favour so it was a straight run for us. The start of the passage we tested out our auto pilot to test its limits, but the wind/waves were just a bit too strong for it to keep on track. So we sailed our Pearson with a reefed Genoa and full main across the open water to our anchorage tucked behind Dick Island, just beside Texada Island. Anchorage has some wind but so far the waters are calm. There is a provincial park here so we hope to go and explore later today!
The winds were not in our favour but we needed to make it that bit further North so we had enough signal at the weekend for Billy’s radio course! So we took it as a good opportunity to practice our tacks the WHOLE way to the anchorage. This made the journey longer, but was welll worth it as we had all day ahead. The bay itself was beautifully calm and very good fishing! We didn’t have time to explore the island but if we are able to come back it’s on our list!
It was slow sailing but oh boy was it relaxing. With no waves but a gentle breeze, we drifted over to our next anchorage at Jedadiah Island from Nanoose Bay, Nanaimo. There were two bays to choose from, ones already had a handle full of boats so we chose the second that only had us and one other! Dinghy-ing a short distance to shore, we explored the trails at Jedadiah Island Marine Park- through beautiful meadows, beach views and forest walks. We even saw some wild sheep grazing along with the deer!
A last minute decision to raise the anchor and head to our next anchorage this evening, instead of tomorrow as the wind was perfect tonight and not guaranteed tomorrow to be in our favour. With our Genoa, main and mizzen to start, we reduced to just our Genoa and mizzen for majority of the journey. Halfway, the winds changed direction and so did our destination as it was now easier to pull into Northwest Bay. But then the wind switched back again so we decided to stick with Nanoose Bay. As soon as we turned into the bay Area, the slightly larger rollers calmed and we successfully anchored. This was great practise for Lizzie who took the helm the whole journey under Billy’s(captain) instructions as he has a lot more navigational experience. En route, we passed Lantzville where Billy’s mum lives! She waved at us from ashore and snapped some pics! The view of Steph’Ney Thames from TweedHope Road Beach Access. Overall, great journey! Sometimes the impromptu are the best!
We started motoring from our anchorage as the wind was non Existent. As we approached Dodd Narrows, the tide was ebbing and so we waited just before so we could travel through at slack tide- this was a perfect change to make some lunch… AND SEE ORCAS! They were initially heading alongside to the boat when suddenly they turned and swam straight towards us- we were in awe of these magical moments but when one of them turns on its back alongside us and swam directly beneath our dinghy in tow, we thought it was going to flip! But luckily it was just curious and they continued on their way. Not long after, we continued through the narrows in convoy with a few other boats as the timing was perfect. Once we reached the opening, it was time to open up the sails again and we were pleased to sail the rest of the way, crossing a ferry’s path or two on the way! Anchoring up just outside Newcastle Island, a popular spot right outside Nanaimo, we took some trails to explore! It’s a beautiful island, the trails well kept and the amenities are great!
It was a slow trip, with a very light breeze… but we have no schedule! So we set the sails and took the 3.5 hours to cruise across to our anchorage. When we arrived, we took Ducky (our dinghy) to shore to be welcomed by a welcome of otters! The island had some great trails to explore and the views were fantastic! There’s a few anchorage options around the island but the one we chose happened to be least busy-which we loved!
This trip was a breeze! With our mizzen and Genoa the whole way, we got to practise some more out on the water on way to our next anchorage. The sunshine meant our DIY 800w solar was fully charged in no time! When we arrived we also took the opportunity to dinghy into the marina and check out their local pub- such good food, friendly staff and also an impromptu performance from a local with a bit of Billy Joel on the panio! What more could you ask! The next morning we took the dinghy again to the other dock, visited the cafe which had some lovely pastries, seating area and plenty of outdoor garden games for the kids (and adults!) the dinghy ride back to our anchorage just outside of the marinas were a first for us as the low tide meant we had to get out and carry the dinghy in some spots- so either prepare with water shoes or only plan at higher tides if you’re anchorage is outside. If you stay at the marinas docks you’ll be coming in via a different way with no troubles.
After an unplanned decision to turn the boat around after hearing a whirring noise on our shaft, we spent a full week grafting on our girl in the shipyard! Having never worked on a sailboat before and first time seeing her hauled out, we sanded, filled, poxied, anti fouled, replaced zincs, and cleaned the hull, prop and drive shaft. From dawn til dusk we put everything into it to get her back out on the water to continue our circumnavigation of Vancouver Island before heading South as newbies! We also took the opportunity to order some parts to the marina and install the new filters for the purified water system that had previously been installed prior to us buying it- this means less trips to the store with our gallon jugs! We worked so hard to get her back on the water and we are pleased to say it paid off! The only thing with ‘engine noises’ is that unless it’s an obvious problem, you don’t know until it’s back in the water if it’s fixed! We got great advice from the teams at Canoe Cove as well as some awesome products from the Boat Exchange there! Now the trip: my gosh it was such a reward! Since cleaning her up, we noticed a big difference in her speed! Also lucky enough to have perfect wind and tide meaning we were able to sail the whole way to our anchorage for the night at Galiano!
We started our journey to salt spring island, however soon made the decision to play it safe and turn back around to the main island as we noticed a whirring noise on the drive shaft (maybe a cutlass bearing). We’ve anchored up for the night and will contact some boat yards in the morning (recommendations welcome). If we haul out, this will give us a chance to give the hull a once over, too as we purchased the boat without a haul out inspection. Better safe than sorry, after all!
Quick sail back to Sidney to drop off our friends. Tide pushed us to the side as not enough wind for the sails so motored part way. Beautiful day and easy anchorage with short dinghy ride to shore! Now to wait for the tide to get to Salt Spring Island for the night!
Our friends joined us for the day so we sailed out to Sidney island and took a long walk along the spit. The sun was shining and sails were up for most the way. Beautiful getaway for the day!
Once the rain died off at D’Arcy Island, we raised the anchor after a battle with the kelp, set the sails and headed around to Sidney on Vancouver Island. The weather was perfect with enough wind to help us practise with our Genoa, Main and Mizzen and even tacked successfully on the approach into Sidney harbour. Our anchorage is in the beautiful Robert’s Bay and so far the only ones here! After a phone all to Van Isle Marina, we took our dinghy to a slip that they let us use for free while we went on land for some good old fish and chips (by far the best we’ve had in Canada when comparing to uk!) at FishOChips -highly recommend!!
A long but beautiful day, part motor part sailing! Leaving just outside of east sooke regional park in time for the tide to take us, and picking it up again as we came out into the open. As newbies to sailing, this gave us a good opportunity to learn the ropes and for the first time got out all our sails! (We have a ketch). Great day also to test our navigation through the shipping lanes and seeing the beautiful Coho ferry on its way to Port Angeles from Victoria. Our anchorage was peaceful and beautiful- but rollers all night and we have no idea where they came from. We didn’t have time for a hike but the island is meant to have some great trails!
We finally were ready to start our adventure around Vancouver Island! Intentions were initially just to get get out of the basin but we would have had to wait another 24 hours to make the next passage due to the current from the tide. So instead we headed straight out and around to this anchorage. Initially setting the main sail, we decided to only have a reefed Genoa as the main was too strong and heeled us over way too much out of our comfort zone! It was a spicy experience for us at parts but already we have learnt so much and looking forward to learning more as we go!
Today we leave the sooke basin to set sail to start our passage around Vancouver Island! Wish us luck as newbies to sailing after weeks of fixing up our Pearson 365!
Beautiful day. But no wind. So we motored. The water was like a mirror the whole way to Jordan River. Then we noticed the temperature gauge increased, Lizzie took the helm so Billy could take a look what was going on. As we directed closer to shore, (thinking we may have better phone sognal if we needed it), we found that the coolant level had dropped causing the coolant temperature to rise. Topped it up. Navigated to shallow water to anchor. Found that there was a leak in the fresh water pump! We were stuck at anchor with no wind to carry us further and an engine that we couldnt use. After calling around, Jenkins Marine in Sooke told us they can help by ordering us the part and also gave us contacts for a search and rescue team to come tow us in to Sooke. A mayday call was announced on Ch 16 in case someone nearby could help out. We waited patiently for the team to arrive as we were in no immediate danger and in that time we had an otter come over to our boat the whole duration to keep us company. The team were fantastic and professional and took us to anchor right outside the mentioned Marine yard. Eternally grateful for everyone who helped us out!
We left anchorage early from Bamfield after a great nights sleep- and it’s a good job! The rollers once we were out in the open were insane. Nearly the full 8 hours of continuous side to side- we both felt (but weren’t) sea sick for the first time. It was a long day but we made it. Smaller rollers kept us awake for a lot of night at the anchorage, but this was inly our second ever night out at sea!
After buying our boat in Ucluelet without an out of water inspection, we spent most weekends driving up from Langford to spend dawn til dusk in making her ours. Cleaning, replacing, getting to know the boat and taking advantage of shore power to sand and refinish the teak! But only until this day did we actually leave the dock!! It was a beautiful morning, although we did motor a lot we got her sails out once we were nearer Bamfield for the first time! We anchored just outside the fuel dock and were greeted by a family also on their sailboat! Taking a dinghy ride to shore with them ended up us staying for dinner and drinks on their boat! What a beautiful and welcoming day for boat life!