When Windy and PredictWind forecast 10kts around Barbers Pt., but it’s actually 25 consistent on the nose 💩 trades are back babyyyyy

On the last leg of our circumnav of Oʻahu, the fuel issue saga continues. The last two evenings at Pōkaʻi were quite rolly. Winds went from onshore to heavy trades the first day, so had to re-anchor as there’s not a ton of room to swing if you let out a lot of scope. We purchased this boat last October with about 250 gallons of 10 yr old diesel sitting in three large baffled black iron tanks. We hired a diesel polishing service and they didn’t complete the job ($1000 later) because their polisher broke. To get rid of diesel on island, you have to schedule a haz waste pickup at least two weeks in advance of a blue moon and after all the bureaucratic 🐂💩 it’s simply not worth anyone’s time. Not to mention disposing of that volume of diesel is also a logistical nightmare. So, our solution has been to dump additive and roundup in the tanks and run through it, refueling as necessary. We’ve gotten about 150 gal through after countless replacements of Racors and secondaries on the Yanmar which, although has been no small feat, has proven generally successful. This morning, to our dismay, we found out that our last 90 gal has turned into strawberry milk. Puttered along from Pōkaʻi to refuel another tank at the Ko Olina fuel dock. Lost power literally perpendicular to the fuel dock which was mildly traumatic and oh so embarrassing. Drained the Racor and replaced the secondary and all was well again on Ciao Bella. Barbers Pt was windy on the nose, but the waves were small so it was fine. Lots of security zones between Barbers Pt, Pearl Harbor, and Honolulu Harbor we had to avoid, plus a multitude of FADs, buoys, and tugs and barges that always seem to move towards you at the speed of light. I’m having sleep for dinner tonight 🍽️

We left Haleʻiwa this morning with light trades. No space in the harbor for transient vessels and no safe place to leave the paddle board or dingy when we had to go ashore, so unless we all packed onto the paddle board and brought it with us wherever we went, every mission to shore was a solo one. Yesterday morning, we tried to stuff the board in a mangrove to walk around town together, but were immediately met with wandering eyes from the local chronic population. The downwind sail around Kaʻena Point was ~15 kts of trades and ~5’ short period swell. I was reading ‘The Great Alone’ and Dave was watching the Manchester Utd match when a massive humpback breached less than a boats length beside us. It’s pretty late in the season for these guys over here. Caught a glimpse of them on the surface as we sailed away. We were going to anchor off of Mākua for a few hours for lunch and to dive, but the wind changed onshore and our engine began to give us some trouble again :( continued our sail to the protected Pōkaʻi Bay to try and sort out the issue this time.

Saw a few green sea turtles sunbathing on the muddy river banks. Porter fell off the board chasing a school of fish 🐠 could probably stay at least a week or two cruising north shore! Seeing if the harbor can accommodate a vessel our size, otherwise we’ll cruise to Mākua or Pōkaʻi Weds or Thurs.

We were accompanied by Hawaiian spinner and bottlenose dolphins from Kāneʻohe to Haleʻiwa 🐬 Porter is unsure if they are friends or foes! Hearing the bottlenose clicks/echolocation from the surface was 🤯 The windward side of Oʻahu is so beautiful. I wish there were more places to anchor over here. Had a following swell which made the sail from Kāneʻohe to Haleʻiwa speedy. Around Kahuku point, the seas were confused with colliding currents. Today the conditions are super ideal, but I can imagine that with stronger trades and bigger swell, this area would be really dangerous, so would stay well offshore. Passed by Waimea to see if we could anchor there, but it looked rolly and the shore break was still too big to land the dink ashore, so we decided to anchor outside of Haleʻiwa Harbor. Overall a nice motor-sail. On a negative note, our fridge and freezers don’t cool when the boat is moving (…lol). So, gotta fix that one asap. ☠️

Explored the valley in the rain and came across a few hidden gems 💎 This unprotected bay is super glassy at the moment, but there’s some minor swell from the NE, so it’s rolly. We most likely won’t stay the evening since we’re at a constant 15 degree heel from port to stb and the protected Kāneʻohe Bay is only an hour away. We’ll return there for the evening before we head north to Waimea or Haleʻiwa early tomorrow AM.

Motored to Kahana Bay today with <10 kts of wind. Saw a shark outside of the commercial channel, not sure what kind, and lightning over the mountains in the distance. The conditions for the past week have been glassy in the morning, variable winds as the land heats up, light drizzle in the mid-afternoon, and glassy in the evenings. That is my hope for tonight, as right now it’s super rolly 🥴 We’ve only ever seen one other vessel anchored in Kahana Bay over the past decade, so it seems relatively uncommon. There is a narrow, unmarked channel flanked only by breakers. The steep incline of the channel begins at ~90’ and the inner anchorage is ~30’. About to head up the stream that feeds into the bay with the dingy to explore Ahupuaʻa ʻO Kahana State Park :)

Two resident mantas swam past us on our way out of Kamalō. The water is a bit murky here so we didn’t jump in, just saw them from the surface. We left with about 15-20kts on our 120, which quickly dropped off to <10kts around Kaunakakai. Tried jibing our way home, but we were going way too slow, so decided to motor sail once again. Once we reached W Molokai it was completely dead which conveniently coincided with our engine beginning to bog….again. Doesn’t seem like she wants to exceed 2000rpm, but that gets us to about 5kts so it’s not the worst. Our ✨brand new✨alternator also stopped charging, so I tried to sort that out underway to no avail. Slowly crossed the Kaiwi with 0 knots and cabbage patch seas around penguin banks. Main luffed constantly, so we tried dropping it, but the boat became exponentially unstable, so we raised it again and accepted the fate of our next few hours…which involved shattering a full wine bottle in the galley and finding a literal lake in the pantry beneath the freezer (???!!!). These inter-island shake downs before the jump across the pond in a few months are doing their job. Very fun week with very fun friends 🤍 grateful!

Motor sailed from Olowalu to Kamalō. Olowalu was so, so beautiful. Went diving after breakfast around 8 am. The water was chilly but refreshing. Followed W Maui coastline and jumped off towards Molokai from Lahaina. The ʻAuʻau, Pailolo, and Kalohi channels are like lakes today…I feel like we’re in a dream! We were debating on anchoring Kamalō for diving and mantas, Kaunakakai for lava flows at Paddler’s and Molokai hot bread, or Lono for bonfires and shelling. All six onboard agreed on Kamalō 🤿 Anchored in about 30’ with some west wind keeping the cabin cool. Naps, food, and diving are in order ✍🏽

Motor sailed across the ‘Au’au channel to a new anchorage in front of Olowalu beach on West Maui. Channel crossing was slow, generally less than 10 kts of wind with a short period of ~20 kts. Mama and baby whales put on a show on the way over🤍 Teaching everyone how to handle Ciao Bella in a whale minefield is fun :) Anchored in approx. 30’ of water at Olowalu. Patches of muddy sand are surrounded by beautiful coral. Cruised over to Mitch’s cat ‘Odyssey’ for drinks 🍻The mountains on W Maui are unbelievable.

0-5 kts of wind and completely flat seas in the Kaiwi. Am I dreaming??? Motor sailing over to Manele, Lānaʻi with our friends Lucy, Aidan, Beau, and Allison. We’re buddy boating over with our friend Mitch and his crew. Dave and I might have the flu but it’s fine ☠️ Porter’s napping in the pilothouse and whales are welcoming us into Maui county 🐋✨

Put some hours on the Yanmar today motor sailing from the Ala Wai to Manele. Anchored as the sun set! Ready to eat and sleep 💤

Sail from Hale O Lono to Nanahoa was very nice. Conditions in the Kalohi were light, <15 kts on our port beam. Some puffs up to 22 kts. Flat seas. Taught Morgan how to sail! Mostly sailed until we rounded Lānaʻi, where we began motor sailing. All was good and well until right about a mile outside of the anchorage, our diesel began giving us problems. I think it’s a continuation of our fuel issue saga…engine won’t exceed 1000rpm. Tried a few fixes that have worked in the past to no avail. Will try to work on the engine today to sort this out. Inched our way to the anchorage and anchored in approx. 40 ft of crystal clear water with an endless sandy bottom, so there’s great holding. Took the dingy to shore to explore the pinnacles and dive 🤿🐚🐠 not so many shells this time, but the fish are unbelievably abundant!

Made a bonfire, cooked some dogs on a skewer, paddled to the beach with my bestie, and found some treasure 🐚✨

Greetings from the middle of the Kaiwi 👋🏽 trucking along at around 5 knots in pretty consistent ~15 knots of north wind. About a 8-10 ft north swell at 120 deg. So, so comfy in the pilothouse. Happy captain and crew (and puppy!) over here :)

Dream sail across the Kaiwi on Ciao Bella. She f’ng GOES!!! Insanely different experience on a real blue water cruiser compared to our little old Catalina. Didn’t barf 🤩 Whales in Maui County are too numerous to count, as are the stars at Hale O Lono. Such a special place that I’m so thankful we get to experience with good company 🤍 Looking forward to spending a few nights here.

Kona winds forecasted for our trip back to town. Calmed down a lot from the past days as it was 8-15 knots of south with gusts to 21 around Makapuu as it was pinching in the mountains. Big long period north swell as we came out of the bay mixed with south that’s wrapping. Not too uncomfortable but too little wind to sail and the wind being right on our nose the whole way made for a long day of motor sailing.