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Ciao Bella
Honolulu, HI
I’ve been sailing in Hawaiʻi for the past 5 years with my fiancé @Christy and dog Porter. During that time, I’ve been working as a licensed captain on charter catamarans, saving up money, and upgrading our 1988 Catalina 34. Recently, we’ve both agreed that our Catalina might not be the right boat for the type of offshore sailing we want to do, so we searched for a new boat for a little over a year. In October we decided on a Tayana Vancouver 460 that was right here on Oahu. The next few months we’ll be updating her and take off in March or April of 2024 to full time cruise. Starting in the Spring of 2025, we’ll sail to Alaska and head down the West Coast to Mexico to do more upgrades.
Explored Hanalei River with the dink. There was a big tree blocking the river around the entrance to the national wildlife refuge, so we turned around and got lunch in town instead.
6 PM: We are cruising along at 6 knots across the Kaʻieʻiewaho. The wind is light and warm, and the waves are gently pushing us towards our future. Oʻahu has disappeared behind us, and only the faint glow of human life remains. Earlier, as we sailed away from Kahuku Point, I felt an intense pull to turn around. I could not take my eyes away from the mountains. To look away felt like betrayal. I thought that if I stared long enough, every ridge and every valley might burn itself into my memory, so that I would never forget. In many respects, it feels as if I’m leaving myself and all the things I love so dearly behind. Everything that’s comfortable and familiar will soon exist only in memory. It sounds foolish, because we are pursuing our dream, but I wished so deeply that we didn’t have to leave. I felt the same way nearly a decade ago when I left New Jersey. It is a bittersweet goodbye to the place where we have become ourselves. I’m on my first night watch of the first day of the rest of my life. My shift began at 6 PM and ends at 10 PM. Dave’s on until 2 AM, and I’m back on until 6 AM. I don’t mind the two evening shifts, as I get to watch the sun cast her magic across the sky, twice. The afterglow from the setting sun paints an apricot to indigo hue over the western horizon. A sliver of a moon rises directly ahead of us, and will not inhibit our stargazing tonight. All is well except for the bloody blinding stern light chaotically flickering on the stern pulpit, likely a result of poor electrical connections. Its beam catches the edge of our outboard and the life raft slung on the stern, making it less a light and more a strobe in my peripheral. I’ll fix it tomorrow. Kauaʻi is shy, I have not caught a glimpse of her mountains or light yet. She is cloaked in long white clouds. 9 PM: Since I have begun my evening log, a few things have changed. We have met the north swell, but it is kind. Bioluminescence dances in our wake like scattered stars, and the stars above look as if they are falling from the sky. Strange glowing orange orbs brighten and dim on the northern horizon. My watch partner @Port is nestled warmly in my lap. 1 AM: The wind has died, so we rolled up the jib. The main flogs when a big roller comes through. We will start the engine soon, just enough to keep our pace. 3 AM: The orbs traveled across the sky close to sea level towards Kaʻena Point on Oʻahu. There is a Space Force base on that side of the island, so perhaps we are target practice for new technology. That, or the aliens are getting too comfortable on the western front 👽 5 AM: The sky is beginning to pale, and the island is slowly revealing herself behind her curtain of clouds. Kauaʻi feels like we’re taking the final exposures on a film roll that’s captured a decade of light 🤍 9 AM: We made it to our home base for the next ~2 weeks! Ciao Bella is anchored in approximately 30’ outside of the mooring field in Hanalei Bay.
Cruised over to Kāneʻohe Bay from town with our friend Morgan. Setting ourselves up for a more northern departure for Kauaʻi tomorrow morning! Late start leaving Ala Wai. I don’t think there’s a fuel dock on Kauaʻi, so we stopped at Kewalos one more time to fill the tanks. Beat upwind until the wind totally died around China Walls, so we motor sailed most of the rest of the way. Saw a few whales rounding Makapuʻu. Anchored at Secret Beach, made pesto pasta, and passed out 💤 It’s approximately 120 miles to Hanalei, should take us ~20hrs to cross the Kaʻieʻiewaho tomorrow AM.
Briefly back in the Ala Weird before we head off to Kauaʻi. The sail back from Molokaʻi was another fun downwind sail. Hand steered most of the way because our autopilots weren’t handling the conditions as well as we were. We weren’t able to experience a lot of bucket list places in Maui county, and Big Island certainly will remain in our rear view mirror. Upwind through the Alenuihāhā isn’t something we needed to put ourselves or Porter through, especially with the conditions we’ve been having the past few weeks. So, we reluctantly left Maui, found safe harbor (and sleep) on Molokaʻi, and returned to Oʻahu to say goodbye for real this time (and fix a couple things that broke, of course). Although we have the whole world to see, there’s something about Hawaiʻi that makes you forget there’s anywhere else to be. Maybe it’s the pace or the warmth, or the way even quiet moments feel full. Every departure feels like leaving a part of ourselves behind, even as we look ahead to the horizon. I know we’ll circle back someday, shaped by the miles in between.
We rarely get to sail downwind, so the sail from Kamalō to Lono was a fun one. 20 or so kts at 180 apparent and little waves. Wind got increasingly lighter as we sailed west, and would drop from 20 to nearly 0 at some points which wasn’t so fun. We love Hale O Lono, and have the whole place to ourselves. From the shells to the stars, the safe harbor and light winds, we’re happy campers after this past week of struggling in Maui. Lono feels like an old friend🫶
We were greeted by three reef manta rays as we entered the mouth of the channel into Kamalō. We anchored in 35’ in the western finger. The winds are blowing with authority, but the motion is gentle. We have >150’ of chain rode out and our 44kg Rocna set hard. I would take these conditions over the past few evenings every day of the week! Anything for a good nights sleep. Kamalō, once named Kamaloʻo, translates to “the dry place”. The slopes of Kamakou, a shield volcano and the highest elevation on the island (just shy of 5,000’), serve as the backdrop behind Kamalō. The eastern slopes are lush and green, whereas the western slopes, true to the name, are dry.
Mala pros: crystal clear water, great holding in 50-60’, abundant sea life along the wrecked wharf (sharks, uhu, uku, spotted eagle rays, sea turtles…), morning and evening Pu’unoa beach walks. Mala cons: rolliest anchorage ever. Wind isn’t consistent enough to set a swell bridle. Boat’s pointing in the direction of the current. Swell’s on the beam. Loosing my mind! Couldn’t find anywhere better to anchor on the leeward side of west Maui or along the foothills of Haleakalā. The trades are strong through the Pailolo and Alenuihāhā, as well as through the isthmus separating the two halves of the island. Our go-to guidebooks and Navionics led us to believe there would be at least one better option than Mala. Alas, there were not. The wind and swell directions just weren’t right. One more evening of no sleep at Mala. Tomorrow we try north, or send it back to Molokai.
Spent the day exploring the Olowalu petroglyphs after a restless sleep, kept awake by the howling wind and bridle tensioning under load. The petroglyphs are nearly half a century old and include etchings of families and sails ⛵️ Olowalu went from calm to heavy trades overnight. All weather models have been wildly inaccurate. We sent the drone up to check out two anchorages to the south of us which looked better than where we were. Upon leaving Olowalu for those anchorages, the wind piped up, just shy of 40kts. I know it’s easy to exaggerate conditions on the water, but I’m not. We looked at each other, shook our heads in disbelief, and turned around. We decided to try our luck back up north. The winds lessened around Lahaina and Mala, but strengthened again towards Kaanapali. We ended up anchoring in about 50-60’ of water outside the mooring field near Mala in a sandy patch on satellite imagery. I dove on the anchor from the dingy with just enough sunlight to illuminate the seafloor to ensure she was dug well. Not our favorite anchorage, but we’ll take what we can get…
Dave and I departed early this morning before sunrise from Kaunakakai to try and beat the heavy trades to the Pailolo Channel. Shortly after our departure from Kaunakakai, we realized that was wishful thinking. We tried to hug the coast of Molokaʻi as best we could with 25 kts on the nose and wind chop, but outside of Kamalō, the wind and waves rose with the sun. We decided to make the jump across the Kalohi (Molokaʻi and Lānaʻi) and Pailolo (Molokaʻi and Maui) channels. The channels met us with teeth. Conditions in the channels were >25 kts sustained, up to 34 kts. At first, we were overpowered, but found balance with a triple reefed main and a sliver of our jib. Twice we tried our self-tacking staysail, twice we stowed it. Ultimately, it was too much sail area, so we stuck with our small jib and de-powered main. The acceleration on Ciao Bella doesn’t feel linear like our past boats felt. She doesn’t ease into speed, she lunges. You have to anticipate her sudden burst of energy, otherwise she’s hard to handle and rudely slips into a 30 degree heel that I don’t think she — or I — were meant to hold onto for long. The swell wasn’t Kaiwi-big, but it wasn’t small, either. We constantly had to pinch up to hit the waves appropriately. The trades have been blowing heavy across the state. At one point, we seriously considered turning back and cutting our losses by heading for Oʻahu, then Kauaʻi, and getting ready for the June passage north to Alaska. But something in me wasn’t ready to turn around, at least not before giving Maui a fair shot in these winds. The Big Island and the Alenuihāhā may remain on the horizon, for now. Part of my reasoning was wanting to get a better feel for how Ciao Bella performs in heavier conditions, and just as importantly, how I handle them. Dave has worked on the water and done two Pacific crossings since 2020. I can count the amount of times on one hand I’ve been in heavier conditions. It’s one thing to sail in moderate, comfortable weather. It’s another when conditions are more demanding. This wasn’t about pushing limits, it was about understanding where they are and what needs to be improved upon. Not screaming expletives when we heel over too much is one of them, lol. Alaska is beckoning, but Hawaiʻi still whispers her wisdom.
Crossing the Kaiwi this time was pretty standard, but the waves were sooo 💩. I think we’ve gotten really lucky with our recent channel crossings, so this one was a reality check! This past week on Oʻahu was potentially our last before we leave for Alaska in June. Had to wrap up a few loose ends and do some boat projects that required a dock. We made it over to Maui county and are planning on spending the next week or so over here. After, we may attempt the Alenuihāhā and check out the Kona coast of Big Island. From there, we can either practice an offshore passage to Kauaʻi or hit a few north shore anchorages on Molokai and Oʻahu one last time before we inevitably cross over to Kauaʻi.
On the last leg of our circumnav of Oʻahu, the fuel issue saga continues. The last two evenings at Pōkaʻi were quite rolly. Winds went from onshore to heavy trades the first day, so had to re-anchor as there’s not a ton of room to swing if you let out a lot of scope. We purchased this boat last October with about 250 gallons of 10 yr old diesel sitting in three large baffled black iron tanks. We hired a diesel polishing service and they didn’t complete the job ($1000 later) because their polisher broke. To get rid of diesel on island, you have to schedule a haz waste pickup at least two weeks in advance of a blue moon and after all the bureaucratic 🐂💩 it’s simply not worth anyone’s time. Not to mention disposing of that volume of diesel is also a logistical nightmare. So, our solution has been to dump additive and roundup in the tanks and run through it, refueling as necessary. We’ve gotten about 150 gal through after countless replacements of Racors and secondaries on the Yanmar which, although has been no small feat, has proven generally successful. This morning, to our dismay, we found out that our last 90 gal has turned into strawberry milk. Puttered along from Pōkaʻi to refuel another tank at the Ko Olina fuel dock. Lost power literally perpendicular to the fuel dock which was mildly traumatic and oh so embarrassing. Drained the Racor and replaced the secondary and all was well again on Ciao Bella. Barbers Pt was windy on the nose, but the waves were small so it was fine. Lots of security zones between Barbers Pt, Pearl Harbor, and Honolulu Harbor we had to avoid, plus a multitude of FADs, buoys, and tugs and barges that always seem to move towards you at the speed of light. I’m having sleep for dinner tonight 🍽️
We left Haleʻiwa this morning with light trades. No space in the harbor for transient vessels and no safe place to leave the paddle board or dingy when we had to go ashore, so unless we all packed onto the paddle board and brought it with us wherever we went, every mission to shore was a solo one. Yesterday morning, we tried to stuff the board in a mangrove to walk around town together, but were immediately met with wandering eyes from the local chronic population. The downwind sail around Kaʻena Point was ~15 kts of trades and ~5’ short period swell. I was reading ‘The Great Alone’ and Dave was watching the Manchester Utd match when a massive humpback breached less than a boats length beside us. It’s pretty late in the season for these guys over here. Caught a glimpse of them on the surface as we sailed away. We were going to anchor off of Mākua for a few hours for lunch and to dive, but the wind changed onshore and our engine began to give us some trouble again :( continued our sail to the protected Pōkaʻi Bay to try and sort out the issue this time.
Saw a few green sea turtles sunbathing on the muddy river banks. Porter fell off the board chasing a school of fish 🐠 could probably stay at least a week or two cruising north shore! Seeing if the harbor can accommodate a vessel our size, otherwise we’ll cruise to Mākua or Pōkaʻi Weds or Thurs.
We were accompanied by Hawaiian spinner and bottlenose dolphins from Kāneʻohe to Haleʻiwa 🐬 Porter is unsure if they are friends or foes! Hearing the bottlenose clicks/echolocation from the surface was 🤯 The windward side of Oʻahu is so beautiful. I wish there were more places to anchor over here. Had a following swell which made the sail from Kāneʻohe to Haleʻiwa speedy. Around Kahuku point, the seas were confused with colliding currents. Today the conditions are super ideal, but I can imagine that with stronger trades and bigger swell, this area would be really dangerous, so would stay well offshore. Passed by Waimea to see if we could anchor there, but it looked rolly and the shore break was still too big to land the dink ashore, so we decided to anchor outside of Haleʻiwa Harbor. Overall a nice motor-sail. On a negative note, our fridge and freezers don’t cool when the boat is moving (…lol). So, gotta fix that one asap. ☠️
Explored the valley in the rain and came across a few hidden gems 💎 This unprotected bay is super glassy at the moment, but there’s some minor swell from the NE, so it’s rolly. We most likely won’t stay the evening since we’re at a constant 15 degree heel from port to stb and the protected Kāneʻohe Bay is only an hour away. We’ll return there for the evening before we head north to Waimea or Haleʻiwa early tomorrow AM.
Motored to Kahana Bay today with <10 kts of wind. Saw a shark outside of the commercial channel, not sure what kind, and lightning over the mountains in the distance. The conditions for the past week have been glassy in the morning, variable winds as the land heats up, light drizzle in the mid-afternoon, and glassy in the evenings. That is my hope for tonight, as right now it’s super rolly 🥴 We’ve only ever seen one other vessel anchored in Kahana Bay over the past decade, so it seems relatively uncommon. There is a narrow, unmarked channel flanked only by breakers. The steep incline of the channel begins at ~90’ and the inner anchorage is ~30’. About to head up the stream that feeds into the bay with the dingy to explore Ahupuaʻa ʻO Kahana State Park :)
My last day of work was Friday and this was @Christy and I start to full time cruising. We figured if we went to Kaneohe, we’d have potentially better wind angles to go either to Molokai, Waimea, or Kauai so we’ll spend a week here planning that. Started early in the morning after a late night of prep. About 15-18 with 20 knot gusts mostly out of the east. Was really nice wind but swell was big around diamond head so we headed 9 miles offshore to get out of that. Ended up having to short tack our way up to Makapuʻu and had a reach from Maks to Kaneohe in about 10-12 knots of wind. No fish but lots of sea birds going around the islands. Excited for our new chapter of finally doing what we dreamed of.
Two resident mantas swam past us on our way out of Kamalō. The water is a bit murky here so we didn’t jump in, just saw them from the surface. We left with about 15-20kts on our 120, which quickly dropped off to <10kts around Kaunakakai. Tried jibing our way home, but we were going way too slow, so decided to motor sail once again. Once we reached W Molokai it was completely dead which conveniently coincided with our engine beginning to bog….again. Doesn’t seem like she wants to exceed 2000rpm, but that gets us to about 5kts so it’s not the worst. Our ✨brand new✨alternator also stopped charging, so I tried to sort that out underway to no avail. Slowly crossed the Kaiwi with 0 knots and cabbage patch seas around penguin banks. Main luffed constantly, so we tried dropping it, but the boat became exponentially unstable, so we raised it again and accepted the fate of our next few hours…which involved shattering a full wine bottle in the galley and finding a literal lake in the pantry beneath the freezer (???!!!). These inter-island shake downs before the jump across the pond in a few months are doing their job. Very fun week with very fun friends 🤍 grateful!
Motor sailed from Olowalu to Kamalō. Olowalu was so, so beautiful. Went diving after breakfast around 8 am. The water was chilly but refreshing. Followed W Maui coastline and jumped off towards Molokai from Lahaina. The ʻAuʻau, Pailolo, and Kalohi channels are like lakes today…I feel like we’re in a dream! We were debating on anchoring Kamalō for diving and mantas, Kaunakakai for lava flows at Paddler’s and Molokai hot bread, or Lono for bonfires and shelling. All six onboard agreed on Kamalō 🤿 Anchored in about 30’ with some west wind keeping the cabin cool. Naps, food, and diving are in order ✍🏽
Motor sailed across the ‘Au’au channel to a new anchorage in front of Olowalu beach on West Maui. Channel crossing was slow, generally less than 10 kts of wind with a short period of ~20 kts. Mama and baby whales put on a show on the way over🤍 Teaching everyone how to handle Ciao Bella in a whale minefield is fun :) Anchored in approx. 30’ of water at Olowalu. Patches of muddy sand are surrounded by beautiful coral. Cruised over to Mitch’s cat ‘Odyssey’ for drinks 🍻The mountains on W Maui are unbelievable.
Put some hours on the Yanmar today motor sailing from the Ala Wai to Manele. Anchored as the sun set! Ready to eat and sleep 💤
We left Nanahoa a day earlier than anticipated due to aforementioned engine issues. With anchoring in unfamiliar places off the table without our engine, and the forecast calling for light winds in the coming days, we decided to head back to town early. While sailing in the lee of Lānaʻi, I worked on troubleshooting the engine. The drain plug on the secondary Yanmar fuel filter wouldn’t seat properly, which we suspected was allowing air to enter the system and causing the engine to stall. Swapping out the filter didn’t help. A friend suggested bypassing the secondary filter entirely, routing fuel directly from the primary Racor to the injection pump. New parts are ordered, and we’ve scheduled a session with a diesel mechanic to inspect the rest of the system in the next few days. As the day progressed, conditions in the Kaʻiwi Channel built beyond the forecast. Instead of the expected trades, we faced sustained 22–25 knots on the nose (of course) with a short period 10–15 ft north swell on our starboard beam. We were much more south than we’d have liked to be which brought us over Penguin Banks (a now-submerged shield volcano that rises to about 200 feet deep compared to the Kaʻiwi’s 2,300 feet). Great for fishing, not so much for sailing. We didn’t anticipate needing our third reef on Ciao Bella’s first ‘real’ shakedown sail, but there we were. With an early morning ETA, we settled in for a long, wet night as Ciao Bella pounded into the wind and waves. A few unplanned saltwater showers kept us awake (and cold). As the sun dipped below the horizon, a small pod of dolphins (bottlenose, maybe?) appeared off our starboard beam. In the distance, a squall loomed over Oʻahu. @David brewed hot coffee and hand-steered most of the way after dark. The wind died as we entered Māmala Bay, and thankfully, this time, the engine pulled through. An improvised fix that worked, at least for now!
Sail from Hale O Lono to Nanahoa was very nice. Conditions in the Kalohi were light, <15 kts on our port beam. Some puffs up to 22 kts. Flat seas. Taught Morgan how to sail! Mostly sailed until we rounded Lānaʻi, where we began motor sailing. All was good and well until right about a mile outside of the anchorage, our diesel began giving us problems. I think it’s a continuation of our fuel issue saga…engine won’t exceed 1000rpm. Tried a few fixes that have worked in the past to no avail. Will try to work on the engine today to sort this out. Inched our way to the anchorage and anchored in approx. 40 ft of crystal clear water with an endless sandy bottom, so there’s great holding. Took the dingy to shore to explore the pinnacles and dive 🤿🐚🐠 not so many shells this time, but the fish are unbelievably abundant!
Dream sail across the Kaiwi on Ciao Bella. She f’ng GOES!!! Insanely different experience on a real blue water cruiser compared to our little old Catalina. Didn’t barf 🤩 Whales in Maui County are too numerous to count, as are the stars at Hale O Lono. Such a special place that I’m so thankful we get to experience with good company 🤍 Looking forward to spending a few nights here.
Kona winds forecasted for our trip back to town. Calmed down a lot from the past days as it was 8-15 knots of south with gusts to 21 around Makapuu as it was pinching in the mountains. Big long period north swell as we came out of the bay mixed with south that’s wrapping. Not too uncomfortable but too little wind to sail and the wind being right on our nose the whole way made for a long day of motor sailing.
We picked a light wind window and it ended up being 0-5 knots of wind. We motored the whole way but hey, we have a motor sailor so it was enjoyable. Saw some whales and caught no fish. 3rd successful time our engine hasn’t bogged down due to bad fuel. @Christy and I had a great time going over to Kaneohe 10/10
@David and I motored over to Kāneʻohe Bay aboard Ciao Bella in 0-5 knots of wind. We had the mainsail up for stability, but there wasn’t enough wind to sail. With heavy Kona winds forecasted in the coming days, we took the opportunity to head to the bay under calm, light conditions. For the first time, we motored inside Rabbit Island, and the conditions were pristine. Between the Mōkapu Peninsula and the Moku Manu Islands, a pod of whales surprised us, surfacing so close we felt their exhalation in our chests before we saw them. While we would have loved to sail, we felt lucky to enjoy such rare conditions, something that only happens a few times a year. We spent the evening on the sandbar, waking up to what felt like the Sahara desert. The vog (volcanic fog carried in by Kona winds) cast a hazy veil over the sunrise and the island. By mid afternoon, stronger winds (around 25 knots) filled in, sweeping the haze away.
@David and I found a new floating home ✨ we sailed her from Ko Olina Marina to Ala Wai Harbor with our two friends, Caleb and Allison, and our pitty puppy Porter. Our track takes us about 10nm offshore, outside of Par Hawaii’s single point oil mooring past Barber’s Point. We motor sailed into town to secure our slip in the Ala Wai before the harbor office closed. We had some minor engine troubles due to dirty diesel clogging the filters on our way back into town…and naturally right before we got into the harbor :’) lots to do before we leave for Alaska in the Spring. WE ARE STOKED!!!🍻 Selling our Catalina 34’ Bria Mia soon…on to new things (and places!)⛵️🤍🗺️
@David and I planned a trip to circumnavigate Oʻahu. First stop was supposed to be Kāneʻohe Bay, then onward to Waimea, Mākua, and back to town later next week. The trades have returned after a spell of light and variable winds. At the head of the trades are steep, unkind seas. We made it to HK and were debating whether or not it was worth it to continue. We turned back to town and then changed our minds and said let’s give it one more shot….Subsequently the Kaiwi unkindly sent us a set that literally consumed the entire boat. 💀 This is the first trip Porter seems a bit frightened on ☹️ We are so tired of sailing this glorified dingy tbh. Anyone selling a floating tank? Sleigh riding down these mountains back home to town…pray we catch dinner 🙏🎣🍣
Probably the best channel crossing experience we’ve done. Had a full main and 100% jib in about 16 knots from 120 degrees. Pushing the boat a little bit and rounded up a couple times from surfing on waves. Wind didn’t really pick up until Laau point. Waves were about 2’ behind us which made it a comfy ride. Ended up catching a yellow fin tuna close to diamond head. Made Christy’s birthday worth it
Started off super light wind around 10 knots out of the east. Closer to noon the wind picked up to 20+ on the nose forcing us to short tack to Kaunakakai. Really made me question why I was still pushing on getting beat up like that. Decide to stay the night in town and sail back to Oahu the next day.
Started off great, 10-15knts of wind at 45 degrees. Closer to Molokai wind shifted more east making us short tack the rest of the way there. Swell came up a bit and we were beating for the last couple hours which really slowed us down. Really have put this boat though it’s paces and realize it doesn’t match the sailing we want to do. We push onnnnn
Yesterday we started heading home from Manele harbor, Lanai, to Kewalo Harbor, Oahu. When we were passing Laau point near sunset, the waves in the Kaiwi channel ramped up to 10-12’ very mixed, steep swell. With the wind being in a different direction of the swell, it made it very difficult to have a safe heading so we decided to turn back for Lono harbor. South swell was also large and we worried Lono harbor channel would be closing out but we made it in safely. This morning, we left Lono at 6am and upon passing Laau point we noticed the swell to be not as bad as it was the night before. Had a decent, rolly down wind sail with double reefed main and a dorito chip for a jib. Still going 6-7 knots despite our average speed. If you ask me, 2.9 knots is a fast speed while you’re sleeping at anchor. Anyways, the crew finally made it home back to the harbor. Had some dolphins welcome us home. We cleaned the boat and turned it back into living mode. Sleeping for 4 days straight
We were going to head to lono harbor to set us up for a nice crossing to Oahu tomorrow. Instead, the weather seemed nice enough to head to lanai so we headed there. When getting to the anchorage, swell was too big to anchor and wind would be on our nose if we tried to go back, so we banked on getting a spot at Manele bay. To our luck we were able to secure a temp slip for the night and into the morning to possibly let us enjoy the island a little. Tomorrow we either head for Maui or back to Molokai to head back to Oahu.
Nice 10-12 knot breeze out of WSW. Tacked up the Kolohi channel west (very rare to have these conditions as trade winds run from east to west). Unfortunately our batteries have not been getting topped up so we still have to run our engine to charge them and make water. Drank coffee, ate Molokai hot bread, generally just relaxed on the sail back. North swell and wind direction prevented us from going north Molokai back to Oahu so we had to backtrack to Kaunakakai to get setup for a Wednesday crossing of the Kaiwi channel. We’re going to be going back to lono harbor tomorrow so our sail on Wednesday isn’t so long. Been great being able to log all this! p.s. Didn’t have take any pictures during the crossing but ended up renting a car to explore the island when getting to Kaunakakai. Had a little wind spout form as we were getting to the harbor
Another motor sail with light west wind behind us. Ocean was glass. Was able to dinghy around the boat and have some fun. Tucked into Pukoo just in time for the wind to pick up. Very shallow but good holding inside the eastern part of the anchorage. Very cool area if you can get in.
Super nice motor sail. Started off with glassy water and then some weird west wind popped up. Put the jib out and was motor sailing at 7 knots for the rest of the way to Kamalo. Really cool anchorage that is off the beaten path. Shallow coming in at about 7’ and then once inside, goes back down to 25’. Saw two massive mantas on the way in.
Mostly motoring. Smaller seas than yesterday about 1-2’. Died down even more when in the wave shadow of lanai. Caught an Ono (Wahoo) and planning to make ceviche. Wind picked up right as we were going into Kaunakakai harbor and now anchored in 8’ with wind blowing to 20 knots. Mantus anchor holding perfectly in the mud bottom (I think it’s mud). Going to go into town and get rid of the trash we have and maybe get a bite to eat since we’re all still so tired.
Big low pressure system 500 miles north of Hawaii causing the trades to switch to south/east winds. They were light enough looking on predict wind but when we got in the Kaiwi Chanel we saw a mix of 8’ north swell and fresh south swell starting. We almost routed to Kaneohe bay but kept motor sailing in 5-12 knots of East wind. Very bumpy ride but finally made it to lono harbor for much needed protection and rest.
Helping a friend move his Catalina 22 he just bought. Very rough. Rig was too loose to sail so motored on a sketchy 2004 mercury 9.9 engine. Mount almost fell off. Tucked in behind an anchored barge to hide from swell as we were approaching keehi channel. Victory at sea
Another custom 50’ sailing beach catamaran delivery. From the same mold as the last cat delivery so we had a good idea of how it would perform and knew better how much fuel we would need. This one being during hurricane season, we wanted to stay north so we would need much more fuel. We ended up having about 2 barrels left by the time we got back so it was a good amount. Caught a ton of mahi and ate tacos the whole time. Spent my 25 birthday out at sea which was different and amazing. Had a bunch of great moments with friends that I’ll never forget and there’s just something magical about completing your first crossing that cannot be replicated in the crossings to follow.
Catching up on some deliveries I did in 2023. Delivered a brand new custom beach Catamaran to its home port. Very lucky to have been chosen to captain this trip as it was a first for me and for all crew on board. Had a bunch of clogs in the head that resulted in 💩 on deck. Couldn’t find wind for the first week and a half which is why we dropped down south so much. Almost ran out of fuel and had 2 gallons to spare as we got to the dock (either poor planning or very good fuel management??). Had the best welcoming crew as we hit the dock as the whole boating industry was there along with the news crews. It felt like we won the Transpac and it’s something I’ll never forget.
Catching up on old trips/memories…Confirmed Bria Mia was not a race boat ✅ This was a trip of firsts for us! First Lahaina return with our best friends Liv and Abby (we unofficially came in last place). First time diving Nanahoa (we forgot our dive fins and I realized I actually don’t know how to swim without them lol). First time cruising the historic Lahaina town (very grateful we were able to experience this before the devastating fires in 2023). First time seeing the Molokai sea cliffs (insane). First time realizing we’re on the right path in this life 🤍
Catching up on old logs. This was from our first trip across the Kaiwi with crew Grace, Alek, and Justin. We had mentioned to a friend on the dock that we hadn’t been across the Kaiwi yet. He gave us a puzzled look and questioned what we were waiting for. A spark on dry tinder! Day 1: We planned a quick trip because the conditions were less than ideal. We caught a Mahi around penguin banks with a bare wood cedar plug. Arrived at Hale O Lono well into the darkness. The swell created a thick seafog causing us to briefly mistake the day markers for channel markers. Local fisherman turned their lights off on the break wall, and our GPS wasn’t updating, so we were going in blind. Wind was nuking so communication between the bow and stern was a solid 2/10. Grace and Alek on the bow scanned the channel entrance with flashlights. I served as the middle man to communicate bow to helm. Tucked deep into the harbor and passed out. Day 2: The resident bees at Hale O Lono were happy to drink up the spilt beer in the cockpit from the preceding day. Grace and I sent the boys out to pull up the anchor and hele while we watched from the safety of the cabin. Conditions across the Kalohi were blustery. Conditions at Nanahoa were not great. Propped the fishing line. Lost the lucky luer. Alek and Grace jumped in and freed the prop. Made Mahi tacos. Conditions deteriorated throughout the night. Consistent offshore 20-30 kts all night. I don’t think there’s a worse sound than the whining of a bridle under load. It felt like the deck was going to rip off like bark being peeled from a tree. Discovered that we could trust our gear that night. Thank you Mantus 🙏 Zero sleep was to be had! Day 3: Sending it back home. Massive following seas. Bria Mia hit a top speed of 11 kts surfing down a bomb with a fully reefed main and a dorito chip jib. Caught Ahi after Ahi. Sitting down to write this years later is a trip. Like, did we not check the conditions??? What was going on lol. Are frontal lobes in the room with us??? We have come so far. We made mistake after dangerous mistake. We definitely caught more fish than we do now. I think we might have had beginners luck. Or maybe like seven guardian angels 😅
Catching up on old logs… Cruised over to west side with our friends Tori and Madison! Had work in the lab 👩🔬🧫 the following two days, so left Dave onboard and headed back into town with the girls after we anchored. Dave hadn’t been feeling so great…turns out he had covid 😭 I caught a ride back to the west side after work, had an early dinner, and sailed back the next day while Dave slept😷💤
Catching up on old logs…first time cruising to Kāneʻohe Bay on Bria Mia with Liv, Aidan, and Juliana. Day 1: Planned on making a non-stop trek around the island from La Mariana to the Bay. Took longer than anticipated to get to Hawaiʻi Kai because there was no wind, so we anchored overnight off of China Walls. It’s not a great anchorage because it’s totally unprotected and subject to swell/refraction. Unless you have a super shallow draft and can tuck into Maunalua Bay, 10/10 would not recommend. Explored a little on the dingy around sunset. Picked up our buddy Aidan after dark from the boat ramp. Day 2: Left HK bright and early. Pink skies 💯 Motor sailed because of light winds. Sailed between Mōkapu peninsula and the islets and a couple guys in wife beaters zoomed out on a speed boat from the marine base and said we almost got shot. Apparently a white flag (raised on the opposite side of the peninsula from where we were sailing from…?) means target practice??? Oops??? 😅 Got to the entrance of the commercial channel on the western end of K Bay around 3 pm. Anchored on the Sandbar by 4 pm. Brought our main anchor into ankle deep shallows and threw out the stern anchor into deeper waters, ~40’. May or may not have ran aground around 3 am… Day 3: Picked up our friend Juliana ‘Juju’ from Heʻeia boat harbor and spent the day paddle boarding and cruising on the sandbar. Dropped everyone off at the harbor around sunset. Day 4: The rumble of the waves crashing on the opposite end of the sandbar woke Dave and I up in the middle of the night. Turns out these were in response to the Tongan earthquake/tsunami wrapping around the island. Began the day around 7 am. Made a big breakfast for Dave and I. Cruising is so nice with just the two of us, but it’s also so fun with friends. Sharing the experience is everything. I don’t think I like one more than the other, just definitely nice to have a nice balance of the two. Tandem surfed some ankle biters on the sandbar before heading back home around noon. This is when the tide was the highest in the Sampan Channel (eastern end of the bay). It’s super shallow here, so boats with drafts larger than 7’ are not recommended to traverse. Made it out of the bay and were surrounded by hundreds of spinner dolphins riding the massive long period rollers coming from the north. They felt like moving mountains. Made it back home to La Mariana around 2 am. 💤
Week-long trip. Honolulu to Pōkaʻi with Kalen and Aidan. Pōkaʻī to Haleʻiwa with Kalen. Rounding Kaʻena Point was gnarly. Anchored outside of Haleʻiwa harbor and met Christy and her friend Erin for dinner in Haleʻiwa town. Haleʻiwa to Waimea Bay with Kalen. Met up with a bunch of friends and had a party at the bay. Dingied over to the jump rock and jumped off at midnight 😅 Dolphins surrounded the boat in the morning. Waimea to Haleʻiwa with Kalen. Had work the next few days so got a slip for a few days right next to the boat ramp. Super sketchy slip… Haleʻiwa to Pōkaʻī with Kalen a few days later. Christy met up in the evening. Pōkaʻī to Honolulu (attempt) with Christy. Wind was nuking 30+ around Barber’s Pt. and we hadn’t replaced standing rigging yet, so turned around and thought it would be safest to stay in Koʻolina Marina. First, they said we couldn’t stay (even though more than half of the marina was empty). We pled our safe harbor case and they reluctantly agreed. Second attempt with Christy, Kalen, and Aidan was successful.
Catching up on old 🪵 Cruised over to the west side with our friends Liv, Zoe, Kalen, and Aidan for my 23rd birthday :) Woke up early on the 6th and sailed over to Mākua Beach. Went out for birthday drinks at the beach house by 604🍻sailed back to town the following day.