Very happy to finally leave Bunessan after being stuck in the area for a week or so with bad weather. We were planning on checking out Lochbuie, where apparently there's a beautiful white sandy beach with Highland Cows, but there were no cows when we passed and the protection just wasn't there. We're also pretty desperate for a shower, so a passage closer to a proper marina is definitely a win for us 😂

After our trip to Erraid in 3.5m swell, we were a little anxious about going back out, but the increasing pressure and upcoming change of wind direction meant it wouldn't be safe to stay any longer. We did debate going forward for an excellent sheltered anchorage on the south of Mull, but decided for once to play it safe and turn tail back to Bunessan, where at least we knew there's decent sounding and a little shop for supplies. For once, the swell was actually a little less than expected, so we were happy with our decision to leave Friday evening rather than Saturday morning, and spend just a few hours at sea vs the 10+ hours we would have had to sail had we gone the other direction!

No pictures today because we were more focused on staying upright and alive. Today's lesson is that if all the weather forecasts say 3.5m swell - believe them! They only ever seem to be wrong the other way around 🙈 Thankfully, it was relatively calm out of the first anchorage, so we had time to stow our belongings properly and prepare for the increase, but it got worse and worse as the sail progressed and at one point we weren't even sure we'd be able to make the turning into the new anchorage! We do have a friend here already, but we're doubting his advice to come now that we're here - it seems his catamaran has given him an unfounded sense of calm and safety 😂 We'll dry out here, which I'm already dreading. Not to self: if you see big waves/swell and you're in an anchorage that's comfortable enough not to believe it... STAY WHERE YOU ARE!!! Good advice for everyone, I think 🥸

I've done a lot of these lately, so I'm going to let David take this one (including the advice)... Two reefs in the main and genoa.... that was our sportiest test for a while and a nice bumpy sea to add to the mix. Great sail! I'm super proud of Pippa today. Close hauled isn’t her thing, but did like a champ... although I'm sure the Vodka and Coke helped 🥂😂😜 Top tip.... Less heeling = faster boat speed. Basically, heeling too much will result in weather helm and going sideways rather than forward direction. Simple as that!

While waiting for the high tide to get into Ulva harbour, we couldn't resist going ashore and checking out the waterfall up close! And seeing as showers have been a bit of a challenge lately, we decided it was a good idea to have a quick wash - I even braved the cold, dark waters to wash my hair under the waterfall itself... What an experience!! Feeling much fresher, we hoisted the anchor to continue our passage to Ulva. We knew it would be a little stressful with lots of hidden rocks and a slightly wonky route, but we took it slow and kept an eye on our charts and depth to get us in safely. Which leads us onto our next top tips for sailors... when entering an unfamiliar harbour, set lines and fenders up on BOTH sides (saves you having to faff about while trying to navigate onto a pontoon) and take unfamiliar entrances slowly, giving yourself plenty of time to deal with weird currents, unexpected gusts, or unexpected obstacles in the water. In addition to checking your destination on the familiar chart apps, it can also be a good idea to scout out the harbour on Google Earth, taking advantage of their street view if possible, to get an idea of the layout and sounding of the harbour. Happy sailing, everyone!

Set off a little earlier than we planned as the swell in our anchorage at Ulva picked up in the morning and caused a pretty restless sleep. Despite the swell, the anchor lifted easily, and Opie and I were able to get an extra couple of hours while David enjoyed a morning of close-hauled tacking around the stunning stone islands. Our next destination will be Ulva, with a walkashore pontoon which will allow Opie to stretch his legs after a week or so at anchor! We can't get in until later this afternoon, so the plan was to anchor by the entrance... but as we approached, we spotted a stunning and massive waterfall, so we quickly changed direction, deciding this would be a much nicer spot to wait out the tide - we may even head ashore and try to shower under the waterfall if it's not too cold! 🤞 When it comes to sailing, those of us who spend much time on the water know that even the best laid plans shouldn't be set in stone. And that sometimes the wind, water, and weather don't align to enable you to do the things you wanted. But while changing plans can be disappointing, today's lesson is to remember that you can also change your plans for beauty or joy. For example, changing our course to anchor by a waterfall. Don't forget to seek joy, you never know where the next stop will find you, or what wonderful things you'll uncover when you allow yourself to be flexible ✨️

Ah, another example of clicking "end track" not saving this morning 🙈 So sorry this is late and the track looks a little weird. It was an early start this morning, but light conditions meant David was able to get us underway solo, giving me a couple of extra hours in bed, ready to start work when the anchor dropped. Although the sail was generally peaceful, a patch of big swell did knock us over, sending freshly washed up cutlery across the saloon and breaking Opie's last wet food dish - a significant annoyance that we'll need to fix sooner rather than later, as he doesn't like eating wet food out of the other bowls! So, that brings us to today's top tip for sailors... Make sure you put everything away properly before setting off! This includes putting away the washing up and checking your breakables are safely stowed before EVERY passage - even the super early, light wind, sea-looks-flat ones 🤡

A gorgeous flat sail today. We were planning to only go as far as Sanna and take the next tide tomorrow with better winds, but as the passage was being so stress-free, we decided it would be better to carry on and anchor at midnight so I could get straight to work in the morning. The only stress on this passage came when we were pulling down the main a little before midnight, when we didn't shake out enough wind and it got stuck. But it was thankfully no real drama, as we were able to get it uncaught and down without too much hassle. Now, to carry on with my top tips for our Learn, Teach, Repeat challenge... Here are 5 more bits of great advice we've been given over the years (and we actually used on this passage): 6.) Apply more suncream than you think you'll need! Even on cloudy days, the sun's rays are doubly strong when out on the water, so make sure you're protected - especially around the face, neck, and ears. 7.) Night sailing sounds stressful, but it can actually be much easier to figure out what other ships are doing at night. To check if you're on a collision course, look for their nav lights - if you can see either the red or green, you're fine, but if you can see both, you should adjust your course to starboard. Remember, everyone is responsible for avoiding a collision at sea, and you should always give way to starboard if you can. 8.) If you have WiFi or any form of good signal, download as much as you can before leaving Port. Even if you're not going far. Offline charts can be literally life saving, and having some tv shows, movies, and music downloaded will make boring passages much more enjoyable. A bit like the shower advice in our last post, never assume you'll have signal on the water or at your next stop, so download whenever you get the opportunity. 9.) Write your ships log by hand. It doesn't have to be complicated; I just enter the time, our longitude and latitude, speed, and notes roughly every hour. Takes just a few minutes and if disaster ever struck, I feel good knowing I can always give a "last known" position if I ever needed to. Your ships log should also contain where you set off from and where you're going - and it's a good idea to update this if you change your mind during the passage. Best case, you never need it and it just becomes a nice record for you to look back on. Worst case, it could be the difference between life and death in an emergency situation. 10.) Inspired by the above - keep important information about your vessel written and stuck prominently near your VHF radio. At a minimum, this should include your boat name, MMSI, and callsign, ideally in phonetic spelling as well. It's also a good idea to keep a mayday/panpan template in the same area. Even if you think you know these things by heart, recalling this sort of information under pressure can be much harder than you expect, and having a cheat sheet makes it much easier to stay calm and relay the necessary information if/when you need to.

A lovely calm sail yesterday to Eilean Shona, which is a truly beautiful spot surrounded by wildlife - making us feel very connected and grounded. Annoyingly, this didn’t post yesterday, but at least it means we have some more pics to share of this beautiful spot. I'm writing this post- beach yoga and sauna, so I'm very chilled. Now, in-line with this week's challenge, it seems the perfect time to share a few of the best bits of advice we've been given over our 6+ years as sailors and full-time liveaboards: 1.) Reef as soon as you think about reefing. It's easier to shake out a reef you don't need than it is to put one in when you really need it. 2.) Reef when going around corners or headlands - the wind is almost always doing something different around the corner, and, like in point 1, it's much easier to shake out a reef than put one in. 3.) Close the v-berth hatch as soon as you realise it's open - even on calm days, it only takes one freak splash to soak your bed! 4.) Always carry a spare gas canister - the gas will only ever go out when you're using it, and there's nothing worse than a half-cooked dinner or the disappointment of having to go without tea/coffee! 5.) Always shower when you have one. Obviously this is more important for us smaller yachts, but good advice anyway. Never assume your next port will have a shower or that it'll be any good, and take a shower when you have the chance. I'll try to come up with some more tips before our next passage. But for now, stay safe out there, fellow Sea People! 🌊

Lovely conditions today, sun came out, reef in the main and genoa 5 knots easy sailing upwind then a lovely beam reach towards harbour. Dolphins were hunting today, so didn’t play with us, but it was lovely to see them orchestrating their tactics. Mooring field covered in 60 private moorings, so not much space to anchor, but we've found a spot that is good enough 😀 Looking forward to maybe a local band and a pint.... dinghy deployed and food on the go! From David x

Made a bit of a last minute decision to do a night sail to Mallaig rather than our original plan to sail tomorrow morning. The winds were light for either option, ans this way we have the whole day tomorrow to enjoy the onshore luxuries after so long at anchor. We managed to sail about half the journey, which was just as well, as we are very low on fuel at this point!! But midnight dolphins splashing around the boat, illuminated by our running lights, were definitely an experience that made it all very much worthwhile.

A bit of a spicy sail today, but we knew that was likely to be the case so were well prepared. Early start and a good workout getting the double anchors that had held us for the last few days lifted, followed by top speeds around 7kts coming through the narrow channel, then some big swells and strong eddies with some decent headwinds to accompany us the rest of the way to our next anchorage. Thankfully, no damage or injuries, we knew it was going to be a bumpy ride! Probably not how I'd have chosen to celebrate our anniversary, but at least we're one step closer to Mallaig: a walkashore pontoon, shops, laundry, and showers 🚿

Reprovisioning was somewhat successful with a large Co-Op literally on the doorstep... However, the storm had caused a power outage yesterday, so much of their fresh food was gone, making for a relatively stressful experience as we couldn't get everything we wanted! Still, at least we have a few meals now to tie us over for the next few days at anchor 🤞

We wouldn't normally sail this soon after a storm - especially a named one - but after the damage sustained from Storm Floris, we thought it best to turn tail and head south towards more sheltered anchorages and ultimately a marina where we could get the repairs underway. But first, a quick stop off in Kyle to grab some much needed groceries and stretch our legs. We only have an hour before the gate gets locked, and we've had a tempting offer of showers and laundry, so it's go go go time!!

What was meant to be a pretty stressful passage with strong gusts ahead of the big storm blowing in tomorrow ended up relatively calm. Light winds blowing from the wrong direction were irritating but meant a mostly flat and calm sail. We did decide to motor the last hour ish of the passage, but that was more to charge up the batteries a little before a few days of likely little solar. Tied up on the pontoon at Rassay just as the winds started to pick up. Now we just need to get some storm prep done, then it's probably worth going for a walk while it's still at least a little nice out 🤞 Wish us luck!!

What started out as a pleasant passage with plenty of dolphin sightings and some cute seals waving us off turned into something a bit more stressful when we ran into a submerged cable while taking a (admittedly dodgy) shortcut through the islands. We knew it was a risk, and thankfully were travelling at the slowest possible speeds, being very cautious of running aground. Thankfully, there doesn't seem to be any damaged caused, although we all got a bit of a jump at the loud bang (I think Opie made it around a foot in the air!) Naturally, we'll check the hull fully when we next dry out - we're due an anode change and an antifoul top-up, so no bad thing to have another reason to find a drying spot! We are a little disappointed not to have made it to Portree tonight - as we've been reliably informed there's a nice swimming pool, and we're definitely due a good shower 😂 - but after that sort of stress, two long passages, and the complete lack of light up here at this time of night, we're very confident we made the right decision to turn around and get a good night's sleep before taking the longer passage around the islands tomorrow. So far, it's a lovely calm anchorage, and we're looking forward to that soft rocking that some anchorages provide for a great sleep. Goodnight.

Some unpredictable and changeable winds were counter balanced by dolphins and whale sightings on this passage, plus some huge top speeds through the cut - not quite the 11knts our friend got earlier in the day, but pretty impressive for us! The sounding isn’t great here, so we'll probably shoot off to our next spot after lunch, but it is very pretty 😍

A pretty swelly start to the trip with a foreboding grey sky and some deep swells, but thankfully it was only a short passage today. As always, a visit from a huge pod of playful dolphins did a great job of cheering us up! Anchor down at 10:30pm, and a late dinner in the oven - doubling as some free heat to warm us up as it did get chilly this evening!

After a gorgeous weekend in Knoydart, rounded off with a visit to the sauna and dip in Loch Nevis to cool off, it was a pleasant evening trip to Mallaig. Sadly, no wind for sailing, but as it was such a short journey we didn’t mind too much. No dolphins today, but we did spot a couple of seals and the most amazing, full, double rainbow 😍 We were definitely tempted a few times to change course and go searching for the pot of gold...

Another slightly spicy sail with some pretty choppy sea and a few unexpected gusts, but definitely improved by multiple dolphin sightings, and dramatically improved by the pos that came to play off our bow for 20ish mins - so close we could almost touch them and a big group of flirts showing off their bellies. And just when we thought we'd seen enough wildlife, a minkie whale appeared! Then later, we got two more 🤯 What an incredible moment! We also got to enjoy plenty of sea birds, including a big black one with beautiful white markings on the wings that we couldn't identify and what appeared to be hundreds of fulmars (we think) floating by, plus plenty of others - too many to name! Anchor down at Inverie, which apparently hosts the most remote pub on the mainland - I'm sure we'll be popping in for a pint and some Cullen Skink tomorrow 😁 Apparently this is an amazing place for wildlife, so we'll be keeping our eyes peeled for otters and golden eagles during our stay 🦅🦦🐬

I'm gonna let David take this one... ... Light upwind sail for 5 miles of the 10nm today then, no wind. So flat seas, amazing mountains, and a good old lighthouse to finish. I'm sure the sunset will be incredible tonight. A glass of red in the cockpit im thinking 🙂🍷⛵️

Another beautiful sunny sail, albeit less cocktail-filled than yesterday! Set off early-ish to try and miss the height of the sun and excited to try and find this waterfall we've heard so much about 🤞

A pleasant sunny sail today, broken up with a delicious lunch and quick doctor's appointment. Now anchored next to the beautiful Duart Castle, looking forward to a warm and relaxing weekend.

The second part of today's passage was down the famous Neptune's Staircase. There were 7 of us in the end, so it was a tight squeeze, but everyone pitched in to make it as safe and comfortable as possible. I even managed to run to the shop and grab an ice cream around half way down! 🍦 The rain came in as we were nearing the end of the Staircase, with just 2 flights, a swing bridge, and 2 more locks to get through. It did get progressively heavier, though, and we got completely drenched tieing up at Corpach in a full-on rainstorm! ⛈️ At least we didn’t have far to go - some of the other boats in the locks with us were heading straight out to see, and told me they weren't due to get to their anchorage until around 10pm tonight - in this weather, we're much happier staying put here! After a couple of weeks inland, I'm happy to wait for a better weather window to rejoin the sea 🌊

A pretty drizzly and grey passage up to Neptune's Staircase this morning. All moored up, off to find the lock-keepers to find out when we can descend 🤞 The end is growing ever closer!

After 3 days at Laggan, it was good to be back on the move today. A pretty wet and drizzly ride through Loch Lochy, but lots of pretty scenery and a few other sail boats and kayakers to keep us company. We'll wait here tonight, then tackle the next set of locks and swing bridges tomorrow. Weird being on a downward-lock, after heading up for so long. Must mean our journey through the Caledonian Canals is nearly over!

Another short passage through Loch Oich up to the next lock at Laggan. Not quite as stunningly beautiful as our last spot, but a good position to take the next lock tomorrow and hopefully get a nice shower this evening 🤞

What a beautiful day for a pootle down the Canals. Two locks and a swing bridge, lots of stunning scenery, what more could we ask for on a Tuesday afternoon? It was also nice to have me driving for a change. Although I used to do 90% of the driving, it's switched in recent years, so it was great to get back on the tiller for a while! We choose the pontoon over an anchorage in Loch Oich just for the cat, but the whole Loch is absolutely stunning and flat calm today, so we would definitely have been happy anywhere 😁