π In The Spirit Of Adventure
ποΈ March 2024
π North Sumatra, Indonesia
Adventures are funny things.
You can't really plan a real adventure. You can only put yourself in close proximity to one and hope it finds you.
A real adventure is greater than the sum of its parts. A true combinatorial effect. It requires the good, the bad and the ugly to qualify.
Tropical beaches + dirty cities = memories.
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Provisioning in Indonesia, especially remote Sumatra, is both a test of wits and tolerance.
No marinas, no beachside tourist towns, no supermarkets. It's an extremely DIY adventure.
As a privileged westerner, it tests your ability to withstand filthy water, rubbish strewn rivers, hot/stinky cities, and language barriers.
It's one necessary ingredient to creating a true adventure, all the while knowing there's a tropical paradise just over the horizon, a day sail away.
Main objective: Fuel, water, fruit, vegetables, pasta/rice & sauces, eggs, milk, toilet paper, soap.
Side quest: Meat, yogurt, tuna, juice, cheese and bread.
Just like a special forces strike team, you require a tight plan. Get in, carry out the objective, extract.
Go. Go. Go!
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This particular adventure required a reprovision in Meulaboh - or MuesliBar as it got named - a few hundred klicks down the coast of North Sumatra, on the way to the Banyaks.
MuesliBar is the capital of West Aceh Regency. It's regional shipping hub with muddy brown water and the smell of a thousand fishing boats basking in the sun.
Sometimes we don't get to choose. You just play the hand you're delt.
It's a filthy place to stop and restock. We arrived late so had to sleep on it. The sickly combination of fish and diesel fumes wafting through the hatches.
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Sunrise the next morning and operation resupply is a go. There's no time to waste. The sooner we get in, the sooner we get out.
0700 and the first objective is to head up the a rubbish strewn river in the dinghy. Find a spot between the local fishing boats.
Slack tide. Small waves. No problem.
No Uber here. Found a Tuktuk and head to the petrol station. 200L in jerry cans please. Return to boat, drop petrol and grab family.
0830: Back up river and find some transport to the local markets. Pick our way though the sunbathing fruit and veg. Eeeh.
Onward to a shopping centre. Dry/cold goods, meat & snacks. 2 shopping trolleys full.
1100: Back to the dinghy and now it's low tide. The river is just rapids. Slight problem. There's no way we'll make it out with all of us + provisions.
1101: Shit. Risk analysis; too dangerous.
1102: Problem solving.
1110: Possible solution. A boat of local fisherman (pirates?) offered to take the girls & provisions, while I wrangled the dinghy. Risk analysis; sketchy, but with a 55% chance of success.
1111: Decisions made at 11:11 always turn out good. Let's go.
1120: Arrive at the boat with the girls, riding shotgun with pirates, close behind. Ahoy.
We'll stow everything later. Engines on and a straight line through the tankers direction Banyaks. Direction paradise. Direction waves. Yeeeow!
That's the spirit. This is adventure.