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Utopia
New York
Ahoy there! We’re Stephan (the German), Corinne (the French), and our dog Harper (the American) – an international crew with big dreams and a trusty boat named Utopia (a Cabo Rico 45, if you’re into the details). We picked her up in Virginia in 2022 and spent two years refitting her in New York, learning the ropes (and the leaks) while sailing around Long Island Sound and up north. But by the end of 2024, we’re pointing her bow south and heading to the Caribbean for a winter of sunshine, salty breezes, and good times. We can’t wait to meet a bunch of you along the way for meetups, parties, bonfires, or whatever else floats your boat. Spot us out there? Swing by and say hi—there’s always a cold beer on board with your name on it! Cheers to adventures ahead!
I was happy to leave Norfolk at first light to start on the 260+ miles to New York City. A cold, gray day with light winds turned out to be some of the best sailing on this trip. I ran downwind all day under full sails often doing 7s and 8s. At nightfall the wind died and I had to motor until about 07:00 when the wind returned. At least it gave me time to make some water, have some really yummy lobster bisque that I still had in the fridge and get a bunch of short naps in. The original plan was to stopover in Cape May, NJ but with the conditions being this good I decided to continue on. From 10:00 to 11:00 with wind on the beam @20 knots I decided to play with sail plans and did about 10 sail changes until I settled on a reefed jib, full staysail and a double reefed main to keep the lateral plan low and the boat balanced doing 7s and close to 8 again Utopia continued charging towards NYC. An hr later wind piping up to 25 and gusting 35 knots and now running under staysail and double reefed main only. Lady Liberty greeted us at 2:30, glad to see she did not move back to France yet😆 Now a few hours of sleep before the last 20 min to the marina
Another quite eventful day today. Remember the boat that ended up on the beach yesterday (see yesterday’s post)? They towed it back out into the anchorage to just put it about 30 feet from my boat. Who in his right mind f…. does that? After trying to reason with the guy and than swearing at him I decided to pickup anchor and move. This is not ok in my book. If you anchor near another boat be respectful and leave them their room to swing and not have them struggle on deck to put out fenders. All good now and I enjoy the last night here before moving on to Cape May. What better is there than to hunkering down below with the good old kerosine stove going for heat and watching your fave YT peeps (shout out to Bret and Marisa who we met in Hope Town).
This tornado warning for Norfolk that came out of the blue is not what I wanted to see for my anchorage. A tornado, really? I knew it would be blustery but a tornado is a whole different animal. Day started off with a neighboring boat on the beach already and 30 kts of wind again. Until noon winds were building to 40+ and a Tornado warning was issued for the area. I let out more anchor chain since re-anchoring alone in these conditions was a no go. By noon I had the engine going to give the hard working anchor that was slowly, very slowly dragging a bit of a relief. Than by about 1 the rain started and it was pouring until about 5. Now the waters are calm (for the moment) and I can breathe a sigh of relief, open a beer and relax. Only casualty of the day was our beloved lamp that toppled out of its charger in a gust and broke. I hope the next hrs will stay calm before the next blow tomorrow.
Early morning start with a beautiful sunrise. No wind, rounded Cape Hatteras at sunset, most likely have a broken turbo charger on the engine but who needs a turbo anyways. All in all a long overnighter from Cape Lookout to Norfolk, VA. Not the prettiest anchorage but home for the next 2 days. Now urgent food and a nap.
Not a good night at Cape Lookout. 40+ kts sustained winds in the last hr and swell is kicking up. So fat the anchor is holding fingers crossed it stays that way🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻 Just had to add a second snubber just in case. Definitely not a lot of sleep tonight. Let’s hope it’ll let off soon. Not loving these conditions
What a ride. It started off really nice with a broad reach but than during the night the wind kicked up to 25 gusting 30, the waves went from 3 feet to 6+ feet and we were going dead downwind. The boat was rolling gunnel to gunnel but it was surprisingly still not too uncomfortable. Not too bad for my first 200+ solo miles on Utopia.
After our great Bahamas trip another great adventure is about to start. Tomorrow is going to be a big day for me. I’ll be single handing Utopia back to NYC. 700+ miles on the outside over the coming weeks. This is the first time I will be taking her out alone. On one hand I’m super excited and on the other hand I’m not sure what to expect. Wish me luck and some warmer weather…not looking forward to the cold part of the journey.
Sadly we had to point the bow north and had to leave the Bahamas and the nice weather behind. Eventless passage back to the US, thank god but the midway greeting by a whole pod of dolphins was something that will stick with me for a while. While Harper (the dog) was loosing her sh… we just enjoyed the company of the dolphins for at least 30+ min. Now cleaning and re-provisioning before the next leg on Friday.
After another sporty sail close hauled in 25 kts of wind we got to Walker’s Cay. Absolutely empty marina, 4 super nice workers, no office showers or any amenities but an airstrip. It is soli built for a couple of fishing tournaments per year. Never experienced anything like it
Upwind slog for 7 hrs in 20+ kts of breeze is not my ideal but it had to be done. s/v Utopia handled it like the champ she is, the dog only threw up once and the rest of the crew is fine. Is it 5 o’clock yet?
Just staging for the night and the anticipated wind shift to the SW later today. Than an early start to Hawksbill Cays tomorrow morning before the wind clocks all the way around to the N.
17-20 kts on the beam, full genoa nothing else and making 7s and 8s, what a blast. After a disaster docking in this wind we are safe and secure rocking at the dock. Let’s see what this island has to offer.
On a ball and took the dingy into town. Really nice new marina ($2.50/ft). Fuel dock and everything. The only restaurant on the island is right in the marina as well. Came back from lunch and a beach walk to find the boat stuck on a sandbar. 2 hrs later we moved moorings and are now afloat again😃
Prop full mooring field in Hope Town. Had to flee before the tide locks us in. Went around the corner and found an anchorage with a restaurant. I’ll take it.
Cherokee point not a great overnight anchorage. The swell from the ocean is wrapping around the point and hit us right on the beam. So we decided to move to Lynyard Cay after a rolly night. This anchorage is dead calm with beautiful green water.
Beautiful but slightly rolly anchorage and some dolphins for the pregame show
Really nice sail along the coast passed the Glass Window Bridge and trough Current Cut. Sharp turn to starboard direction Spanish Wells. The beginning showed about 3ft under the keel but closer to Spanish Wells that changed to 0.2 - 0. A bit of a nail biter but we made it. Hopefully the rain will stop soon