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El Burro
Antwerp
We are Greg, Julie and Nelly, Finn (our cats), the El Burro crew. In August 2022 we moved aboard our 33ft sailing vessel. We are currently sailing in the Mediterranean.
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After a short but peaceful night, we get ready to leave early, aiming to reach Pollença before the wind and rain catch up with us. The engine starts, the anchor is lifted and we set off. Behind the mountainous rocks, the wind is somewhat calm, although we're mostly heading straight into it. Fortunately, the waves haven't arrived yet, so for now, it's a smooth journey. After about two hours, we round the cape. We've managed to stay ahead of the waves and reach the other side without any issues. Unfortunately, the wind then mostly dies down, while the waves start to pick up. We unfurl the headsail, but keep the engine running a bit longer to continue sailing comfortably. We then try sailing under wind power alone, but with less than 10 knots of true wind and a rolling sea that makes the boat rock, it's far from pleasant. So the engine goes back on. We're relieved when we sail into the bay. It's quiet there; only our friends from SV Donna and New Hope are anchored. The water is calm. We tidy up the boat, eat something and treat ourselves to a well-deserved nap.
We are sailing in a flotilla towards Cala Sant Vicenç and keeping in touch via VHF channel 77. Not long after, Thomas lets us know that dolphins are swimming around his boat, and shortly after, we spot them too. Sailing Donna is lucky, as the dolphins swim directly toward their boat. From a distance, we only see occasional splashes and a few dorsal fins. We are clearly the slowest in the group and quickly fall behind, but it doesnât really bother us. It feels like mid-summer: no breeze, a bright sun and only some gentle swells. The water maker is running, the washing machine is doing its thing and we're making ice cubes for iced coffee. It feels like a luxury sail. Five miles from our destination, the weather starts to change. The sky is cloudy, but there is still no wind. Our friends are already in the bay, which is otherwise completely empty. The surrounding buildings and hotels arenât exactly a pleasant sight, but the water is crystal clear, and we have a beautiful patch of white sand to drop our anchor on. Dark clouds are rolling in from the mountains, and we hear the first rumbles of thunder, but fortunately, most of the storm passes us by. In the evening, we are visited by the Guardia Civil. They check our boat papers, IDs, and boating license.
We rented a car for three days and drove towards ArtĂ . There, we strolled through the charming little town and went for a walk in the Parc Natural de la PenĂnsula de Llevant. At the top of the hill, we were rewarded with a stunning view over the bay. Definitely worth it. The next day, we followed the coastline and stopped in Figuera, Cala d'Or and Portocolom. In Portocolom, we found a bench and had some baguette, grapes and cheese. Simple, but so delicious. One of those little moments that just makes you happy. On our last day with the car, we took care of a few practical things. I had a hospital appointment with a specialist. It was necessary, in theory, but the specialist did so little that it ended up feeling pretty pointless. After that, we made a quick stop at Leroy Merlin. Then we returned the car at the airport and took the bus back to AlcĂșdia. There, we started our round of goodbyes. Although âgoodbyeâ might be a bit much, since chances are weâll run into many of these people again somewhere on the Mediterranean. We had lunch with Margau and Alex from the sailing boat Alma, enjoyed a drink on deck with Isabelle and Benjamin from Malou, and later went out for Indian food. We also ran into Benny and Sonja from Tai Pan, a couple from Antwerp we had already met last year in Mallorca. Always nice to see familiar faces again. The night before our departure, we celebrated Stevieâs birthday with a cosy dinner on her boat. And then the moment came. On Thursday, May 08th, we cast off the lines and set off once more.
Next stop: SĂłller! Monday has something special in store: a pirate battle in the bay. It is a re-enactment we definitely do not want to miss. We leave the bay of Cala BĂłquer and are immediately met by gusty downdrafts rushing down from the mountains. Before long, we are able to hoist the sails. Behind us, the sky turns dark grey and we watch the rain pour down like a thick curtain. Luckily, we stay just ahead of the storm and sail straight into the sunshine. Couldnât have timed it better. We also make sure to give Nelly some extra love today, itâs her birthday after all. Sheâs 15 now! When we arrive in SĂłller, the search for a good anchorage begins. Our friends Ben and Caetlin from Sailing Donna are already in the bay and send us some helpful tips on which boats are on moorings and which are properly anchored. On our second try, the anchor finally holds. The next day, we head out with Ben, Caetlin, and Thomas from New Hope. First we stop for coffee, then we do some grocery shopping, and finally we walk back loaded with full backpacks and a little cart trailing behind us. Sunday, May 11 is quite rainy, so we take it easy and stay onboard for most of the day. Then, on Monday, May 12, the celebration begins. It is much bigger than we had expected. Early in the morning, we already hear loud bangs all around us. We meet up on Thomasâs catamaran for piña coladas and snacks. With six people, every bit of space is welcome. A little background might help explain what we are witnessing. The celebration is called El FirĂł, an annual event that commemorates the victory of the people of SĂłller over an attack by Barbary pirates in 1561. The entire town transforms into a vibrant historical stage filled with costumes, swords, cannons, war cries and complete chaos. Everyone gets involved. Some people are dressed as Moors, others as Christian defenders. The scenes unfold on the beach, in the bay and in the town square. We all climb into Thomasâs dinghy with snacks and drinks and head into the heart of the action. The battle begins on the water. Pirates approach by boat while fireworks and smoke bombs go off all around us. One even lands in our dinghy. There is so much happening that we can barely take it all in. The pirates make their first attempt to land but are pushed back. They try again at another beach. It is spectacular and we are so happy we got to witness it. After spending hours in the hot sun, we return to Thomasâs catamaran and fire up the barbecue. We enjoy chicken, shrimp, pineapple, coleslaw, pasta salad, and more. It truly feels like a feast. Later, we watch the sunset and spend almost an hour discussing where to sail next. It is not easy to decide with the weather being so unpredictable. The following morning around 10 oâclock, we pull up the anchor and set course for Cala Sant Vicenç.
The sea is like a mirror as we sail out of the bay of Alcudia. I look behind me and already feel a sense of nostalgia when I think of our new friends in the bay. What a unique life we have, and creating new memories and saying goodbye to each other are definitely part of it. Still, it always feels a bit strange, especially when weâve stayed in one place for a long time. After five months, everything felt so familiar and safe. Today weâre heading towards Cala BĂłquer, which, if I could choose, is definitely my favorite bay on Mallorca. As I mentioned, the sea is like a mirror, so we start with the engine on for the first few hours. After that, we can sail, but at a very slow pace. The cliffs along Mallorcaâs coastline are impressive, and we canât help but be in awe of them. Just before entering the bay of Cala BĂłquer, I spot a group of dolphins either hunting or playing. At least five bottlenose dolphins, the larger kind. They're still far off, but you can clearly make out their fins and shiny backs. Dolphins, finally! We avoid the Posidonia and drop our anchor in crystal-clear, pool-blue water. People on the shore are lying on the small beach or the rocks, accompanied by a few goats. Small, blue fish swim under our boat. We donât have any internet here, so we fully enjoy our offline day. The wind shifts, and our chain gets stuck behind a rock. Weâll sort that out tomorrow. That evening, we see the dolphins again near the entrance of the bay. Theyâre playing with the only fishing buoy floating around. The wind dies down, the sun sets, and the sound of cicadas echoes through the bay. Wonderful! There are no buildings here, so no light pollution, but the sky is so cloudy that we can barely see any stars. Weâre in for a quiet night. Greg tells me it rained, but I was sleeping so deeply that I didnât notice anything. The next day, we leave as the wind picks up again. Our anchor chain comes loose easily. On to Soller!
The Fira de la SĂpia has kicked off again, a yearly culinary and nautical festival that celebrates local maritime traditions with the squid as the star of the show. We wander around a bit and have to admit, there is more going on than we expected. Stalls everywhere serve up squid-based dishes, there is a lively market, nautical exhibitions, live music and even a big fair. It is all quite fun, although a little too crowded for our liking. We are simply not used to being surrounded by so many people anymore. Then the weather changes. The week starts with rain and grey skies. For us, it is the perfect time to install our new watermaker, the Schenker Zen30. The strong winds create some chaos in the bay. One of the boats breaks loose and drifts into Stevieâs boat. We see it all happen. Greg immediately jumps into the dinghy. Together with Lluis and a few others, they manage to secure the boat just in time. The owner had been working on the beach and witnessed the whole thing. Thankfully, he was nearby and could safely re-anchor his boat. In the end, both boats escape with only minor damage. On April 19, I prepare for a long hike of 23 kilometers. From Port dâAlcudia, I head toward Albufera, following the 11.5 kilometer trail and then walking the same route back. Along the way, butterflies dance around me, birds sing their sweetest songs and the air is filled with the scent of wildflowers and fresh grass. I feel fantastic. On Easter Monday, the bay is full of life. Motorboats cruising around, jet skis flying by and people paddling around on SUPs. Itâs busy but in a fun way. We hop into our dinghy and set course for the little island with the lighthouse of Alcanada. There is not much to do there. A simple path leads to the lighthouse and that is pretty much it. But among the rocks, it feels like a different world. We go searching for treasures and find all sorts of things. Tiny hermit crabs, bright red starfish, curious little fish, swaying anemones and even a crab make an appearance. We also take a short sailing trip around the bay, just about an hour and a half out and back. Conditions are excellent and we sail at a good pace, around five to six knots in fifteen knots of wind. When we return, I drop the boat hook into the water. Of course, it sinks straight to the bottom. Luckily, the next morning the water is calm and still, like a mirror, and we are able to retrieve it quickly. The rest of the month passes peacefully. We catch up with friends, take care of a few small jobs on board, enjoy the quiet moments and slowly begin making plans to set off again. All we need now is a good weather window. With this unpredictable spring weather, that may be easier said than done.
Finally, the first barbecue of the year on board! Such a fun and relaxed way to kick off April. Time is flying and by now we almost feel like locals in the bay. Itâs not too busy yet and since weâre not alone here, weâre totally fine with staying put for a while. If the weather plays along, weâd like to do some day trips this month to get back into the sailing groove. We donât really have big sailing plans for this year. Maybe head towards Corsica and then on to Greece? Weâll see. No fixed route, just going wherever we feel like and following our intuition. At least the first week of April is off to a great start. The weather is amazing, weâre relaxing on board, did a solid 19-kilometer hike from Port dâAlcudia to Coll Baix and back, spent a lovely afternoon on Stevieâs boat and are just soaking in all the beauty this unique lifestyle has to offer.
Weâre up early. A quick grocery run, then we head back out to sea. The wind forecast calls for strong easterlies, so we decide to sail towards Port dâAlcĂșdia already. Better now than battling waves later. Along the way, a lone dolphin glides by, barely paying us any attention. Where have all the playful ones gone? Around three in the afternoon, we arrive in our familiar bay. In the distance, we see Stevie waving at us. We tie up to the buoy and instantly feel at home again. This weekend, Port dâAlcĂșdia is all about the Fira de la SĂpia, an annual celebration of maritime traditions and the pride of the local cuisine: cuttlefish. It promises to be a weekend full of flavour, music and discovery. Weâre looking forward to it!
As soon as weâre free from the mooring buoy, we set course for Pollença. The trip takes a bit longer than expected, but the sea is calm and thereâs just enough wind to sail so weâre not complaining. We have to tack a few times to stay on course. No dolphins today, but we do spot thousands of Velella velella, drifting by like a purple-blue blanket on the water. Itâs kind of magical. By late afternoon, we drop anchor in a nearly empty bay near La Fortaleza. It used to be a military fort, but now itâs a luxury wedding venue. We end the day with a sunset and a laid-back barbecue on the boat.
I wake up with severe stomach pain. I had been dealing with it for two weeks already, but it gradually got worse. Time to see a doctor. Luckily, I can get an appointment quickly after sending a message via WhatsApp. After a short examination, I am referred to the hospital for a blood test and further check-ups. Not exactly how I had envisioned my Monday⊠So, some logistical planning is needed. The hospital is in Palma, a 40-minute drive from Port dâAlcudia, so we rent a car for the day. When we arrive in Palma, we accidentally go to the wrong hospital (which we only realize after an hour in the waiting room), but I receive good care. After some further tests, I am allowed to leave the hospital after 3.5 hours. Fortunately, I feel a bit better the next day. We still have the rental car for half a day, so we make the most of it. We drive to Cala BĂłquer for a walk through beautiful nature: cliffs, wild goats, trees and blooming shrubs, with the highlight being the azure blue Mediterranean Sea at the end of the trail. We take a moment to reflect, eat our lunch and walk back to the car. On the way back, a baby goat greets us. Cala BĂłquer remains a magical place. For the rest of the week, the wind and waves come from the wrong direction, blowing straight into the bay. We feel a bit trapped by the weather. But it could always be worse. Apart from a few showers, it stays dry, and the rocking isnât bad enough to make things fall off the table. As for me, Julie, my condition fluctuates. Sometimes, the pain suddenly hits after eating, only to disappear again after a few minutes or hours. Itâs still a mystery. I start keeping a journal, noting my symptoms and what I eat or do each day. And then, itâs the week of my (Julieâs) birthday. The sun is shining and it truly feels like spring. I take a dip in the water, we walk along the coast of Playa de Alcanada, and of course, we celebrate my birthday. Greg prepares a big breakfast and in the evening, we go out for dinner with our sailing friends, followed by drinks at the Irish pub. A lovely evening and Iâm grateful for all the great people weâve met on this journey. After another rough night with strong winds, the real spring weather finally arrives. I canât wait for long walks, barbecues, swimming and carefree relaxation on the deck.
After almost five months on Mallorca, we set foot on a new island. After a tough crossing (see previous blog), we arrived in Ciutadella, a charming harbor town on the Menorcan coast. Despite our fatigue, we donât want to let Gregâs birthday pass unnoticed. After a refreshing nap, we take a warm shower and decide to have dinner at a cozy pizzeria. Our boat is docked in the Ports IB marina, where we are joined by four other inhabited boats at the pier. One of the first things we notice is the countless stranded Velella velella lining the harborâs edge. Velella velella, also known as âby-the-wind sailors,â are fascinating, floating colonial organisms. They look like small, blue disks with a transparent âsailâ that allows the wind to carry them across the sea. Although they resemble jellyfish, they belong to the hydrozoa, a different group within the cnidarians. When they wash ashore in large numbers, they create a striking blue carpet on beaches and in harbors. Their massive presence often indicates shifting wind directions and ocean currents. The next day, we have a vet appointment for Finn. He needs a new rabies vaccination and a general check-up. Finn is not thrilled about it and meows the entire way to the vet from inside his backpack. Once there, he tries to hide in my sweater but patiently endures all the examinations. The verdict: Finn needs to go on a diet and the vet advises us to remove the white spot (a type of scar tissue) on his head. Luckily, he is otherwise completely healthy! Just in time for the next rain shower, we make it back to the boat. As soon as the weather clears, we head out to explore the town. Unfortunately, it looks a bit deserted. The shops and most restaurants are still closed and the streets are empty. The gloomy weather likely plays a role in this. A poster on the theaterâs facade catches my attention. I quickly book tickets online, and that evening, we are immersed for 80 minutes in the intense world of flamenco. More rain the next day, but we donât let it dampen our spirits. Between showers, we explore the city, which feels livelier now that itâs the weekend. We stroll through the market, buy sobrasada, taste tapas at El Hogar del Pollo and browse the small, cozy shops Ciutadella has to offer. In the late afternoon, we prepare the boat for departure. Originally, we had planned to sail from Menorca to France, but the weather forecasts for the coming days and weeks are not favorable. So, we decide to return to our familiar bay in Port dâAlcudia. We end the day with a beautiful sunset. A perfect farewell to Ciutadella before setting sail once again.
The new month begins with gloomy weather. The sky is gray, a cold north wind blows harshly, and dark clouds predict rain. We do the laundryâthe basket was overflowing againâand take a beach walk. The sand, whipped up by the wind, stings my eyes. This isnât quite how we imagined the start of the spring month. The next day is Sunday and we head to the market. There are more stalls and itâs bustling with activity. Tourists are returning to Mallorca, we notice it everywhere. Restaurants that were closed all winter get a fresh coat of paint and hotels set out their parasols and beach chairs. Fortunately, the number of boats in the bay remains limited. That evening, weâre at Isa and Benjaminâs for a cheese fondue, perfect for this dreary weather. We end the night with a card game, Ravine. For those unfamiliar: you work together to survive after a plane crash on an island. Really fun! Monday, March 3rd. Greg replaces the water filters while I give the boat a thorough cleaning. Afterward, we pick up a Too Good To Go package and treat ourselves to an ice cream on a terrace. The sun isnât shining, but it still tastes great! We also get a croissant, a neapolitana roll and five pieces of cake. A little celebration! The next day, I sleep in. The wind howls, and the creaking of the mooring lines on the buoy keeps me awake. Low on energy, I occupy myself with creative tasks on board: drawing, writing and relaxing. The following day, Greg hosts a splicing workshop with Isa and Benjamin. Itâs a cozy afternoon aboard Malou while the weather outside remains gray and rainy. In the evening, we enjoy delicious Indian food at Bombay Beach. Saturday, March 8th, the weather clears up. Early in the morning, we head to the marina to prepare the boat. Isa and Benjamin have rented a car and we take a road trip to Sant Elm, a picturesque coastal village in southwest Mallorca. Itâs like a postcard: houses draped with bougainvillea in every shade of purple, the azure Mediterranean Sea as a backdrop and the rugged silhouette of Dragonera. The sun shines, people enjoy drinks and snacks on terraces, exactly what we do too. After a short walk, the weather turns, so itâs time for practical errands. We drive to Leroy Merlin and Bauhaus. On Sunday, we skip the market and tackle a to-do list: rinsing the boat, tidying up inside, filling the water tank, doing laundry. In the evening, we reward ourselves with Indian food from our new favorite restaurant. A table full of goodiesâpure happiness. The next day, it rains buckets. The streets flood quickly. We go shopping, hopping from awning to awning to avoid the worst of it. Soaked, we return to the boat with a full cart. We load everything in, shower quickly and check out of the marina. Just in time, we take the buoy in the bay as a thunderstorm makes visibility zero. We havenât seen this much rain in a long time. Luckily, it clears up later. That evening, Lluis and Isabelle visit, and we have a cozy night aboard El Burro. Tuesday was supposed to be our departure day, but the wind and waves keep us put. So, a lazy day on board it is. The next day, we get the boat truly ready. On March 13th, Gregâs birthday, we sail out of the bay with a beautiful sunrise.
Time to head back. We seem well-prepared this time. The boat is neatly tidied up, all loose items are secured, the key has been returned to the marina office and Finn has found a safe spot. After our previous sailing trip, we've become a bit more cautious. The sea can sometimes take you by surprise. There are plenty of waves at the marina entrance again, but luckily they all come from the same direction, making it reasonably comfortable. We keep the engine running until we've passed the tip of the island and the two approaching ferries are behind us. A solitary dolphin quickly swims under our boat. The crossing to Mallorca goes pretty well. There are some waves, but the sails stabilize the boat nicely. Finn is a bit anxious (and who can blame him?) and hides behind a cushion, with only his two ears visible. Meanwhile, Nelly is napping at the bow of the bed â hardcore! A rain shower passes by and the wind picks up. We're going fast! You could almost say we're sailing in a sportive way. We do have to tack a few times to reach Port d'Alcudia. As soon as we enter the Bay of Alcudia, the waves calm down. The last miles always seem the longest, but after a long journey, we grab the mooring buoy in our familiar bay. It almost feels a little like coming home.
Right at 7 oâclock, just before sunrise, we cast off the mooring and head out. The wind has almost completely died down, so we motorsail with the mainsail towards the breathtaking glow of the rising sun. A perfect start to Gregâs birthday! Past the little island of Alcanada, we set course for Menorca. From here, itâs a straight shot to Ciutadella! Thereâs still only a light breeze, but thatâs fine. After a whole winter, the engine could use a good run. The waves make the boat roll a bit and Finn isnât feeling great. But he goes inside and eats his food, so it canât be that bad. Weâre cruising along at around four knots, perfect! I keep hoping to spot some dolphins. Then the wind picks up and we start flying over the water, regularly hitting over 5.5 knots. The waves get rougher and the boat slides around now and then, but overall, itâs still comfortable. At times, the wind gusts over 30 knots, making things more intense, especially with the choppy waves. We furl the genoa, but the boat stays steady. We steer by hand more often to give our autopilot a break. When the wind dies down again, the waves stick around, making it really uncomfortable. We turn the engine back on, but the boat is getting thrown around in all directions. Then things get even worseâthe wind picks up again, this time from the south. Waves are coming at us from every angle. We unfurl a bit of genoa, which helps slightly, but it still feels awful. Turning back isnât an option with these conditions, so we have no choice but to push on. At one point, Greg grabs onto a handle for support, and a massive wave hits. The thing just snaps off in his hand! The last five miles are brutal. The waves throw us around, and a few times, we nearly lose control. The entrance to the harbor is rough, with waves crashing against the rocks, but we power through at full throttle. Finally, inside the channel, the wind and waves settle, and we manage to dock without any problems. We moor up at a finger pontoon, no help needed. What a birthday sail. The boat is a disaster zone. Bikes have come loose, the cockpit is a mess and inside, it looks like a bomb went off. We do a quick cleanup, check in at the marina, and then just crash for a bit. Weâre completely wiped out. And just as weâre settling in, a massive thunderstorm rolls through with heavy rain. At least we didnât have to deal with that out at sea! The harbor is peaceful now, so we head into town for some food.
The second half of February is calm. We are both down with the flu for a while, so there isnât much action. We spend most of the day either sleeping or sitting in the sun in the cockpit. There are worse places to be sick. Fortunately, after some time, we regain our energy and start exploring again: we go for walks, I explore the bay on my paddleboard, and we take the dinghy out in search of octopuses. We donât come across any, but we do discover that there are many wrecks along the rocky shoreline near our anchorage. In the last week of February, after a sunny moment in the cockpit, I suddenly feel the urge to jump into the cold water. First, I cautiously dip my toes inâcold, but bearable. Then, I slowly lower myself from my paddleboard into the water up to my waist and finally decide to go all in, submerging my head completely. The icy cold tingles against my skin and my breath catches for a moment, but afterward, I feel completely refreshed and reborn. I warm up in the sun, though my toes remain ice-cold. Luckily, a hot shower works wonders. Did you know that cold water diving has numerous health benefits? It stimulates circulation, strengthens the immune system and boosts endorphin production, giving a natural happiness kick. That evening, we have dinner with Isa and Benjamin at El Negre, which has now become our favorite restaurant in Puerto dâAlcudia. We had been there the week before as well, but to our disappointment, the famous spare ribs were sold out. So, second attempt! Thankfully, Isa and Benjamin had made a reservation. The ribs, served with roasted corn, stir-fried vegetables, fries and a creamy peanut coconut sauce, are absolutely delicious. It turns into a wonderful evening. We end the last day of February with ice cream at Dolce Vita. Long live Too Good To Go! For just 3 euros, we get three scoops of ice cream and two Neapolitana pastries. A perfect way to wrap up the month.
Ten days away from my familiar surroundings. My world revolves around El Burro, the place where I feel safe and have everything I long for. But still, I had booked a trip to Fuengirola, where my mom and my stepdad Dirk now live. The last time I saw my mom was in February last year when we flew to Belgium for a month to visit family and friends. Now that she lives in the south of Spain and weâre still in Mallorca, visiting is fairly easy. The flights were ridiculously cheap: 50 euros round trip, absurd when you think about it. So there I went, on January 31st, boarding that plane. A metal tube meant to get me safely to my destination. I used to love flying; now, it mostly gives me claustrophobic thoughts. Greg came with me to the airport. Saying goodbye felt strange. I canât even remember the last time we spent an entire day apart. People sometimes ask how we manage to be together all the time, but honestly, it doesnât bother me. Maybe thatâs a good sign? When I arrived in MĂĄlaga, I walked to the exit with a nervous feeling. And there they were: mom and Dirk. Because we video call often, seeing them again felt familiar, as if it had only been a week. We took the train to Fuengirola and I was curious about their apartment and how they lived there. It felt both strange and familiar at the same time, like stepping into a book whose beginning I knew but whose continuation was still unknown. That evening, we had dinner together and caught up. It felt good to have mom and Dirk close, though I did miss Greg. But traveling with two cats by plane? Impossible. Especially with one whoâs afraid of the sound of an engine. During my stay, I had also booked a trip to the Caminito del Rey, a famous hiking trail through an impressive gorge. Once one of the most dangerous paths in the world, but since its renovation in 2015, itâs safe and accessible to tourists. The bus ride there took us past endless lemon and orange groves. The scent of ripe fruit filled the air and the sun painted the landscape golden yellow. Upon arrival, we were given helmets and followed the guide along the wooden path high above the river. The views were breathtaking and we even saw vultures soaring above the mountains. Sometimes, I paused, looked around, and tried to take it all in: the immense depth below me, the soft whisper of the wind through the gorge, the distant cliffs standing out against the bright blue sky. The guide shared interesting facts about the history and nature of the area. Would I do it again? Yes, but preferably alone or with Greg. Walking in a group isnât for me; I want to take my time and not feel rushed. Some parts also felt overly touristy, especially when we ended up at various souvenir stalls and food stands. The magic faded a little at that moment.âš The days flew by: walking through Fuengirola, a trip to MĂĄlaga, and⊠getting sick. The flu got me, probably thanks to the cramped space on the plane or train full of people. Still, I tried to make the best of it and enjoyed the time with mom and Dirk. Walking through Fuengirola together was nice, but I had underestimated how busy and noisy it could be. The contrast with the peace of the boat suddenly became painfully clear. I realised that quietness is becoming increasingly important to me. âšSaying goodbye to my mom and Dirk was difficult. The knot in my stomach was there from the moment we woke up that morning. You never know how long it will be before you see each other again. Thankfully, video calling exists, but itâs just not the same. Our hug felt tighter than usual. With the flu still lingering, I boarded the return flight. For a moment, I was even afraid Iâd miss my first flight, the crowds and waiting triggered a slight panic attack. My breathing sped up, my head spun for a second. But I recovered, kept going and focused on the moment Iâd be home again. After two flights (with a layover in Barcelona) and two bus rides, I finally arrived in the bay of Alcudia. Just in time for sunset. The sky turned a stunning blend of pink and orange behind the mountains, a painting of colours melting into each other. And then I knew: this is home. The boat is home. Greg is home. The cats are home. I took a deep breath and felt the tension from the journey slowly fade away. And just like that, I felt so much better.
Hey everyone, Our latest episode (#21) is now live! This time, we take you through the highs and lows of anchoring in MallorcaâJanuary was definitely a month of contrasts. Watch it here: https://youtu.be/-tDIOHcmiJs?feature=shared Enjoy!
The new year starts off quietly. The water is like glass and the mornings feel incredibly peaceful. We soak up the early sun, cuddle with the cats on deck and take in the beauty around us. Itâs the perfect slow start to the year. On January 3rd, we pick up our rental car, an absolute steal at âŹ167 for 28 days. Gotta love the off-season. The next day, we head straight into the mountains for a road trip through the Serra de Tramuntana. The drive is stunning: winding hairpin bends, dramatic mountain views and scenic picnic spots (some even have barbecues). We end up in SĂłller, a charming village tucked between the peaks. Over coffee and a pecan-caramel brownie, we take it all in before wandering through the streets. The following days are a mix of adventure and downtime. Strong winds keep us on board on the 5th and 6th, so we hunker down and make the most of it. Greg whips up French toast with homemade kiwi compote from our last Too Good To Go haul, topped with rum raisins and whipped cream. A small feast. By the 7th, the wind has settled and weâre itching to explore. We visit the Reserva Natural de sâAlbufereta, which turns out to be smaller than expected but still beautiful, and then head to Pollensa. Itâs strangely quiet, not quite the lively place we imagined, probably due to siesta time. On a whim, Greg sets the GPS for the Formentor lighthouse and wow, what a drive. More hairpin bends, breathtaking cliffs and a lot of curious goats. The next few days are a mix of practical errands and little adventures. We tackle dentist visits and laundry on the 9th, then set off on another road trip to Valldemossa and DeiĂ . Two of the most picturesque villages Iâve ever seen. Think cobbled streets, stone houses and mountain views that look straight out of a painting. By the 11th, a storm is on the way, so we move into the marina. Perfect timing for some retail therapy. B. and I. tag along as we hit Decathlon and IKEA, where we go all-in on the Swedish meatballs. That night, the storm arrives in full force, howling winds and all. The second half of the month is a mix of sun, rain and everything in between. By the 16th, Iâm fed up with the constant rocking of the boat. The swell makes even the simplest tasks annoying and the howling wind through the rigging drives me nuts. But a few days later, the sun returns and we head out for a long hike in Alcanada. Fresh air, green forests and mountain views, exactly what I needed. A few spontaneous trips follow. We plan to visit Fornalutx on the 21st but end up in Palma instead, wandering the streets and stopping for ramen at Shifu. The next day is a quiet one on board. I make pine balm from needles I gathered in December and Greg catches a fish for Finn. On the 23rd, something magical happens. As we sit inside, we suddenly hear the unmistakable sound of a dolphin surfacing right next to the boat. The sea is completely still, the sky full of stars and the moment feels almost surreal. On the 25th, we set sail across the bay, cruising at around 6 knots with a wind speed of 10-15 knots. After anchoring for the night, we return the next day to our âhome bayâ, Alcudia. Then comes the 27th. The day everything goes wrong. The wind is howling through the bay when I hear a loud whistling noise. I peek outside and see our neighbor L. frantically gesturing towards our friendsâ boat. And then I see it. The mooring buoy is still attached to the boat, but it has snapped off, and sheâs drifting straight towards the rocks. I shout for Greg, who jumps into the dinghy. I toss him his phone and he speeds off. L. picks up S. in his dinghy and they race to help. But before they can get there, it happens. The boat hits the rocks (or maybe the seabed, weâre still not sure). From our boat, I feel completely helpless as Greg and the others do everything they can to save her. He climbs on board, quickly starts the engine (thank god B. and I. explained how it works before leaving for their home country) and reverses out. Luckily, the boat doesnât seem to be taking on water. The rescue is far from over. As they try to drop the anchor, it gets tangled in an octopus trap on the seabed. Meanwhile, S.âs boat also breaks free. L. and S. manage to secure her just in time. Itâs complete chaos. Greg eventually frees the anchor from our friendsâ boat and the plan is to keep her moving until B. arrives. Heâs already on his way back, completely unaware of the full extent of the situation. When B. arrives, Greg guides the boat safely into the marina. My hero. I couldnât be prouder of how he handled everything. And Iâm beyond grateful for the sailing community. We may all be out here doing our own thing, but when things go wrong, everyone steps up. That night, I barely sleep. Every gust of wind puts me on edge and I keep an eye on our anchor alarm. One thingâs for sure, Iâll never fully trust a mooring buoy again. The last few days of January are calmer. We go on a beautiful hike near Coll Baix, soaking in the views and laughing at pushy goats trying to steal our lunch. On the 30th, I pack my bags. Iâm heading to Fuengirola for ten days to visit my mom and stepdad. It feels strange leaving Greg, the cats and the boat behind. I canât even remember the last time I spent a day without him. But Iâm also looking forward to some quality time with my mom. On the 31st, we drive through pouring rain to return the rental car before I catch my flight to MĂĄlaga. Itâs been a wild month. Peaceful mornings, terrifying storms, rainy days spent curled up inside and sunny adventures in the mountains. A month full of contrasts. Just like life at sea.
Hey everyone, Episode 20 is now live on YouTube! Join us as we spend the final month of 2024 in winter paradise Mallorca. Watch here: https://youtu.be/58nRUWtCT-4?feature=shared Iâd love to hear your thoughts. Feel free to leave a comment, drop a like and subscribe if you enjoy it. Your support means a lot! Muchas gracias, The El Burro Crew
Hi everyone, Happy New Year! I hope the year is off to a great start for you all. Iâm excited to share my latest YouTube video where we set sail to Cabrera, a small island just south of Mallorca. Iâd love to hear your thoughts. Feel free to leave a comment, drop a like and subscribe if you enjoy it. Your support means a lot! Muchas gracias, The El Burro Crew