I’m still in bed when Greg starts hauling up the anchor at seven in the morning. Not long after, I’m woken by the beeping of the engine and the rattling of the chain. Finn snuggles closer to me and hides behind a cushion. I jump out of bed and ask why we’re leaving so early. Greg just shrugs: he’d been awake for a while, didn’t know what else to do, so he figured, why not head for Marsaxlokk already? The passage is about 17 miles, but there isn’t a breath of wind. The sea is flat as glass and the heat is relentless. As soon as we approach the industrial harbour, we know we’re almost there. The fishing village of Marsaxlokk is tucked away behind this industrial area. The anchorage isn’t exactly pretty, but according to the reviews the village is worth visiting. Getting the anchor to hold, however, turns out to be a real challenge. The first time it lands between flat rocks, dangerously close to a shallow. The second time I think we’re too close to our French neighbors. The third time the anchor refuses to dig in. The fourth time we end up too close to a quay where big tugboats dock. Finally, on the fifth attempt, it holds more or less. Still, we’re right in front of the quay, staring at three ugly smokestacks. We decide not to stay. After a quick visit to an overpriced Spar supermarket and a fantastic fish shop, we pick up the anchor again and move to the bay around the corner. Much prettier, much calmer. I dive straight into the water. The temperature shifts dramatically: warm on the surface, icy cold as soon as I dive deeper. In the evening, we set ourselves up on deck to watch the Perseid meteor shower. Unfortunately, the industrial glow in the distance creates too much light pollution. We only catch a few shooting stars. The cats, on the other hand, love having us out there; they’re thrilled to lie up front on deck with us. Greg heads to bed, while I stay a little longer with Nelly. Half an hour later I wake up, still lying there with her beside me. I pick her up and we head inside together. The next morning I can feel right away it’s going to be another scorching day. I jump into the water first thing and scrub the side of the boat a little. I keep wondering where those black streaks and little scratches have come from. The swim barely cools me down. In the meantime, we discover our SUP has developed a big bubble, like a paint blister. I don’t dare use it, afraid it might give out. Thankfully, the SUP itself isn’t damaged, the blister is only in the top layer. What a relief!

We leave Gozo behind and set course for Malta. The sea is flat as a mirror, so before long we pack away the sails and continue under motor. It’s Sunday, and we notice it right away: the bay where we want to anchor is packed. Still, we manage to find a spot and, surprisingly, the bustle doesn’t bother us here at all. Everyone is just enjoying themselves in their own way. Some boats are rafted up ten deep, simply sharing food, chatting and having fun together. We slip into the same relaxed rhythm: a bit of swimming, a bit of lazing around on board, there isn’t much else to do in this heat anyway. Just before sunset, we take the dinghy out for a ride. In the rocks we spot little beach huts, where families gather to eat, swim, and talk together. It feels so Mediterranean, almost like stepping into a postcard. On the sandstone-colored cliffs, people are climbing up, and soon it becomes clear why: the sun is setting. The sky turns completely pink, and we float quietly in our dinghy, both mesmerized by the view. The following evening we head out on foot. We hike over the sandstone cliffs and test our drone again. To our delight, it works just as before. Hooray! For now, though, we’ll only launch it over land. I’m not ready to risk flying it over water yet. In truth, the drone feels almost unnecessary, since the view from the cliffs is already phenomenal. The path climbs steeply, and at times we nearly slip, but the effort is worth it. From the top we continue through forests and a desolate landscape that reminds us of Iceland. When we return to the quay, families are unfolding tables and lighting up barbecues, a wonderful sight. As the sun sets, we take the dinghy back to our boat, make homemade pizzas in our little oven, and end the evening with a game of Catan, the dice version.

The sea is choppy, but seven miles later we’re anchored in the crater-like bay of Dwejra or Saint Lawrence, with the impressive Fungus Rock right beside us. Finding a good spot to drop anchor is a bit of a challenge: the seabed is covered in rocks and posidonia, with only the occasional patch of sand. After a few attempts and some frustrated shouting at each other, our anchor finally holds. The bay is absolutely stunning. Gozo keeps surprising us. For me, this is already the most beautiful anchorage we’ve ever stayed at. Towering cliffs almost completely surround us, and everywhere we look are inlets with mysterious caves. In the late afternoon, a 33-meter sailing yacht, PIAFFE DOS, drops anchor right next to us. Normally yachts of that size anchor farther away from smaller boats, but in this bay it’s impossible. An impressive ship indeed! With snorkel and fins, I dive into the water. Once again, it’s a beautiful snorkeling spot. I swim up to the caves, push aside my fears and venture into the dark water. No moray eels or other creepy sea creatures spotted (thankfully), but it feels pretty special to snorkel inside a cave. In the evening, we witness the most spectacular sunset we’ve ever seen. Just through a small opening in Fungus Rock, the sun peeks out one last time. Breathtaking! It felt like the whole bay fell silent for a moment. That night, I wake up to strange bird sounds. Luckily, we had read about this in the Navily reviews, otherwise I would have been completely puzzled. I had no idea shearwaters (birds) could make such bizarre noises. Even Finn looks surprised. Strangely, you don’t see many “regular” gulls here. Greg looked it up: apparently, people in Malta have a long history of hunting birds. Poor Finn, he doesn’t like the Maltese islands much anyway. I crawl back into bed and enjoy a night without swell. Wonderfully peaceful! The next day, we head out for a walk despite the heat. We easily park the dinghy and climb up, first to the Inland Sea (a small inlet of seawater that you reach through a cave) and then on to the village of San Lawrenz. There, preparations for the festa are in full swing: enormous flags already wave proudly in the wind. We stop for a bite at Ta’Dbiegi Cafeteria (a Ftira, a local specialty, and a salmon sandwich) and wander through the craft village. After a quick supermarket stop for fruit, we brave the heat on the way back, ending the day with a cozy barbecue, the second in a row. The following day I don’t feel so great, so I sleep a lot. It’s the weekend, so the bay is quite busy. Meanwhile, Greg is tinkering with our drone. With little hope, we press the start button… and to our surprise, we hear the familiar start-up sound and see the lights flashing. It’s alive! There’s still an error with the back vision sensor, but Greg quickly fixes it. We still have to test it in flight, but this already feels like a small victory. That evening, the loud fireworks of the San Lawrenz festa dominate the soundscape. Nelly hates it, but Finn doesn’t seem too bothered. The next morning, our anchor, slightly wedged between some rocks, comes up without any trouble. Time to set off for the next beautiful bay.

In the morning Greg goes to get diesel and discovers that the bay around the corner is a bit calmer. Fewer small boats pass right next to you; only the big ferries come by, but they slow down on arrival and don’t create a disturbing wake. As soon as Greg is back, we lift the anchor and move over. It’s only half a mile away, so within a few minutes we’re dropping the anchor again. With the dinghy we head ashore and leave our little boat between the fishing boats in the harbor. Taking a small detour, we walk to the supermarket. On the way we pass a replica of Bethlehem. Apparently, it’s a popular attraction at Christmas, but now it looks rather deserted. The houses could use a coat of paint, and the outdoor lighting has clearly seen better days. Still, there are animals in the cages—ducks, chickens, turkeys and peacocks—that look surprisingly well cared for. After that we continue on to Għajnsielem and step into Ta’ Dirjanu, a larger supermarket nearby. It’s always fun to see what’s on the shelves in a country new to us. Right away we notice how many British products they sell. Not so surprising, since Malta was under British rule until 1964. It also explains why people drive on the left here. On the way back to the dinghy, we’re surprised to see horses in the water by the harbor. Later I find out that this is a local tradition, not only to cool the animals down, but also because it’s good for their joints and hooves. The next morning I get up at sunrise to take drone shots. Everything goes well until landing. While I’ve already positioned the drone above the solar panel, our landing platform, it suddenly switches to “auto land,” moves two meters backward, and plunges straight into the water. I try to regain control, but in vain. Without hesitation, I dive in after it and bring it up from eight meters deep. Greg immediately takes it apart and rinses the inside with distilled water and alcohol. Then we leave it to dry, though we don’t have much hope it will recover. Not wanting to let this spoil our day, we take the bus to Victoria (Ir-Rabat), the capital of Gozo. What a surprise: narrow streets, charming little shops, and a wonderful restaurant, Roża. Greg orders the rabbit stew, I go for a summery salad with burrata, fruit, and asparagus, and together we share sweet potato fries. Highly recommended! In the afternoon we visit the citadel, an impressive fortress towering high above the city. We wander through the Archaeology Museum, Folklore Museum, Natural History Museum, Cathedral Museum, and the Old Prison. You could easily spend hours here. After a surprisingly lovely day, we take the bus back to our anchorage. Tomorrow, we plan to sail across to the Blue Lagoon. From afar, we can already see dozens of boats. Some tied to the rocks, others anchored, and many circling around in search of a free spot, just like us. At the Blue Lagoon, where we initially wanted to stay, we quickly give up: far too crowded. Not surprising though, the surroundings are breathtaking. Towering cliffs, carved with both small and large caves, rise dramatically above us. We try the other side, past the swimming buoys. And yes, there it is, an open spot waiting for us. We drop anchor just outside the buoys, where the commercial boats are allowed, and secure ourselves with a line to the rocks. It’s hectic here, almost like being in a theme park. Boats of all sizes shuttle people back and forth or stop for a swim. For one night, we can handle it. In fact, it even gives us an unexpected holiday vibe. At first, I wonder why this place is so incredibly popular. But the moment I dive into the water, I understand. Crystal-clear blue, teeming with fish, and perfect for snorkeling. The sunlight dances across the sandy bottom, creating the most beautiful patterns. We snorkel to a small beach and come across a tunnel that people swim through. Too busy for us, but it’s easy to see why this little island, Comino, is overrun with visitors. After our swim, we wave down the ice cream boat and I enjoy a Ben & Jerry’s cookie dough back on board. Strange to say after three years of living at sea, but that day truly felt like a vacation, just joining in with the rest. Right before sunset, we take our dinghy out and explore the countless tunnels and caves nearby. At night, the bay turns surprisingly quiet. Except for one small motorboat, we’re completely alone. And in the morning, before the crowds return, we lift our anchor and set off again.

Because there were too many waves in the previous bay, we’ve moved to this one. We drop anchor among a row of small motorboats, all tied to their mooring buoys. Onshore, the place is buzzing: teenagers leap from the quay into the water, tourist boats to the Blue Lagoon pass by several times an hour, and everywhere people are seeking relief in the cool water. After our long journey, we lounge lazily in the cockpit today, letting the bustle drift past us. In the evening, we’re treated to a fireworks show. In fact, the festivities begin already in the early afternoon, with loud bangs echoing across the water. It turns out there’s a festa here: each village competes for the most beautiful decorations and the most impressive fireworks. Thankfully, peace returns in time for us to enjoy a good night’s sleep.

At 3 PM, we lift the anchor in Poetto and head off to Malta, super excited. It’s a 320-mile sail to a brand-new country for us. The fridge and cupboards are packed with Italian treats, and the weather forecast looks great. The first few miles go smoothly. The waves start building slowly, but they’re coming from behind, so it’s not too bad. They are pretty tall though, way higher than we expected. We keep sailing under the headsail and set up the wind vane. Greg tries to set up the spinnaker pole with the headsail, but it all goes completely wrong. One of our windows nearly gets smashed and his hand ends up bleeding. Bad idea. We stash the pole away quickly and move on. By evening, our little oven comes to the rescue. We heat up the frozen pizzas we bought for the trip. With this kind of swell, cooking anything else would be a nightmare. Around sunset, rogue waves start hitting us. Most waves still come from behind, but once in a while a set rolls in that throws the boat in every direction. And they are huge. Some even crash above the cockpit. Definitely not in the forecast. And the wind? Supposed to be 15 knots, but it’s blowing 20 to 25 instead. At 9 PM, my watch starts. I crawl into my sleeping bag. It’s so cold with all the wind blowing in the cockpit. It gets dark fast, and the sound of those big waves crashing around is honestly kind of scary. Just before midnight, as I’m about to switch with Greg, a wave smashes into the cockpit. Luckily, we had the doors closed. Sleeping is nearly impossible. Cat food is flying everywhere, fruit is falling out of the nets, and inside the boat it’s a total mess. We’re shouting at each other out of frustration. You can barely walk straight with the swell throwing you around. At 3 AM, I’m on watch again. The floor is covered in dirt from the plants, which are getting tossed all over the cockpit. I just sit there, miserable, in my sleeping bag and life vest, thinking, “We’ll deal with this tomorrow.” This is not the trip I imagined. I try to nap in fifteen-minute chunks but get slammed into the cockpit floor six times. So annoying. At 6 AM, I finally crawl into bed, but I hardly sleep. By 9 AM, I give up and start cleaning. I find safer spots for the plants and scrub the floor with the deck pump. Much better. I try to make things a bit less chaotic inside too, which is still tough with the swell, but I manage. All day, we feel like zombies. Every time we do something inside—brushing teeth, using the toilet—we come out nauseous. We try to nap as much as possible, but even that doesn’t work. Even Greg feels seasick, which is a first. Luckily, the wind and swell calm down a bit in the evening. For the first time in a while, we can walk around the boat without being slammed into something. During my night watch, Greg sticks his head out the hatch to tell me Finn peed in our bed. Poor cat. After two days of camping on our bed, terrified of the waves and with the carrier ready just in case, he couldn’t hold it anymore. I saw it coming. I even tried putting him in the litter box earlier, but he just panicked and ran back to bed. Day 3 starts with laundry and trying to air out the mattress. The whole boat smells like cat pee. We fire up the watermaker and toss the sheets one by one into our mini washing machine. Greg hoists the parasailor. From a distance, we must look hilarious—blue sail up front, sheets flapping all over the deck. And finally, a dolphin shows up. Just one, but it’s massive and swims alongside our bow for a few minutes. That little visit honestly made the whole day better. We’ve actually been able to sail most of the time on this trip. The engine only runs now and then, and only for short stretches. On day 4, Greg nearly gets hit by one of those super fast ferries that go 30 knots. The AIS was working, but didn’t show its speed correctly, so we had no idea what it was doing. It ended up passing just 200 meters in front of us. Later that day, we change the plan. We’re supposed to arrive in the middle of the night, and that doesn’t sound fun. So we look for a safe bay to anchor in. We charge up our flashlights and get ready for a night-time anchoring job. Finally, at 2 AM, after dodging a bunch of fishing buoys, we drop the anchor. According to the chart, it’s a beautiful bay, but we can’t see anything. It’s pitch black. Apart from a single anchor light and a campfire on the beach, it’s total darkness. What a wild trip. We crawl into bed, exhausted but happy. We made it. What a relief.

Nothing special to report. After leaving Pula because of the swell, we’re now fairly well sheltered here. There’s quite a bit of wind in the forecast over the next few days, but as long as the waves stay down, it’s all fine. There’s some kind of street food festival going on. We walk around a bit, but we’ve seen enough after a few minutes. Poetto is a convenient spot to stock up before heading to Malta. We’re loading up on Italian goodies like my favorite drinks Esta Té and Lemon Soda, and the many kinds of cookies you see everywhere here. We do some chores and get the boat ready for the crossing. We improve the setup of the wind vane lines, check the diesel, bilge and engine, and do a thorough navigation planning. In the late afternoon on Wednesday, July 30, we say goodbye to Oriane and Eliseo from Bee Sailing, lift the anchor and set course for Malta.

The persistent swell and the fact that we are not allowed to leave our dinghy on the beach make us decide to move on. We quickly prepare the boat for sailing, pull the dinghy onto the deck and lift the anchor. At first, we plan to sail back to Poetto. Along the way, we chat with Oriane and Eliseo from Bee Sailing and learn that they are anchored in the bay near Pula. We decide to change course. The sea is rough, with large waves, and we are not sure whether we will even make it into the bay. Now and then, waves crash over the deck. Despite the conditions, the sailing is surprisingly comfortable. Only one particularly mean wave causes trouble when it knocks over Greg’s freshly brewed coffee. The floor is covered in coffee and grounds. Later in the afternoon, the wind drops completely and the sea turns into a mirror. The sun slowly disappears behind the mountains, painting the sky in spectacular colours. We drop anchor next to Bee Sailing and unwind in the cockpit. Pula turns out to be a nice place. We are able to pull the dinghy up onto the beach and walk into the nearby village. Of course, we do this right in the middle of the afternoon, when everything is closed and the heat is relentless. We never seem to learn. We do some shopping and Greg is happy, as he has been wanting to cook Belgian beef stew for a while. Tonight, it is finally on the menu. We have been waiting for a package for quite some time, and I finally receive a message saying it has been delivered. So I take the bus to Cagliari, which is about an hour away. Getting a bus ticket is easy with the DropTicket app, and the Arst Finder app helps me check the route and departure times without any hassle. Very convenient. On the way, we pass a lagoon filled with hundreds of flamingos. I am not exaggerating. It is such a cool sight! I really enjoy my time in Cagliari. Sometimes it feels good to have a little time for yourself. I collect the package, wander through the city, step into a few charming little shops and relax at a café with a cappuccino and a cream-filled cannoli. Life is good in Cagliari. For lunch, I order a pizza along with an Aperol Spritz and a Lemon Soda. It could hardly be more Italian. After one in the afternoon, most of the shops close, so I make my way to the botanical garden. The entrance fee is six euros, but the garden is spacious and surprisingly varied. There is a Roman cave, several greenhouses, an ancient water cistern and many unusual plants to discover. It is a great place to find some shade during the hottest part of the day. After my visit, I take the bus back toward Pula. The walk from the bus stop to the beach takes at least another thirty minutes. With a heavy backpack and the intense heat, it is quite a challenge. Thankfully, I can jump into the refreshing water once I arrive. That evening, we are invited by B Caramel, a Swiss couple who are exploring the Mediterranean with their child. Oriane and Eliseo are there as well. We grill all sorts of delicious food and enjoy a fun evening together. During the night, the swell becomes uncomfortable again and sleep is nearly impossible. The next morning, around seven, we decide to leave. We start the engine, lift the anchor and head out of Pula. Most of the other boats have already departed. It seems like nobody got much sleep that night.

We hoist the anchor and sail out of the bay. It’s a bit nerve-racking to maneuver between the anchored boats without using the engine, but it goes well. It looks like it will be another warm day, but the clear blue water makes up for it. After our sail, we’ll be able to jump in and cool off. While we’re underway, Greg starts baking a whole wheat yeast bread, which he puts in the oven a few miles before we arrive. When we finally drop anchor, the whole boat smells like fresh bread. It feels like we’ve become a little bakery on the water. We tidy up, take a refreshing swim and light the barbecue. The next day we take out the sewing machine to finish our curtains. I chose a warm orange fabric that fits perfectly with the wooden interior. It helps keep most of the heat outside. We had already made window covers that could be inserted into the windows, but they kept falling down. It was definitely time for a replacement. On July 20 we lift the anchor again and set course for Pula, where our sailing friends Oriane and Eliseo are staying. So we’re heading a bit west again.

There are already some pretty big waves rolling into the bay, and the forecast says it’s only going to get rougher. So, we lift anchor early to stay ahead of it. The 4.5-mile trip turns out to be tougher than expected. Waves slam into the bow and toss us in every direction. Anything not tied down ends up on the floor. Note to self: even for the shortest trip, make sure everything is secured. The Guardia di Finanza speeds past at full throttle, kicking up even more waves. Much appreciated! Though to be fair, they did actually wave, which isn’t always the case. Sometimes they just glare at you, or as I’ve experienced before, ask for your papers the moment you wave at them. We drop anchor again in that familiar milky-blue water. Going ashore isn’t an option here; the coastline is packed with private beaches and lidos. From experience, we know they don’t appreciate it when you leave your dinghy on the beach. Best case, you get politely asked to leave. Worst case, they just chase you off. With gusts up to 30 knots, we wouldn’t leave the boat anyway. Around us, inflatable mattresses are flying off into the open sea… After two days, we’re ready to move on. The wind has finally calmed down, and we sail out of the anchorage.

We’re moving to Villasimius, a sheltered bay about five miles away, or at least that’s what we thought at the time. We set off around 8:00 AM, while the sea is still flat and mirror-like. Thomas joins us for the trip. After about an hour, we drop anchor in the bay. I dive almost immediately into the crystal-clear blue water. With temperatures climbing above 30 degrees in recent weeks, any kind of refreshment is more than welcome. Greg hops on Thomas’s bike to do some grocery shopping, while I tidy up the boat a bit. Around 5:00 PM, Thomas joins us for an early dinner. He is heading to Sicily shortly after. Goodbyes are never fun, but knowing we will likely meet again in Greece makes it a bit easier. We are staying in Sardinia for now, waiting for a package that still needs to be delivered. We spend one night anchored here and plan to move to the other side of the bay the next day. The night was restless because the swell made sleeping difficult. It is a strange feeling when your entire home keeps rocking back and forth, and that is not even mentioning the endless clattering of things shifting and falling in the cupboards.

After nearly four days of peace at sea, arriving in Poetto felt quite overwhelming. We really should have known better. Anchoring in an Italian bay over the weekend is rarely a good idea. Poetto is, after all, the main beach destination for the people of Cagliari. It is a popular getaway for the locals, so naturally, it was lively and crowded. On the very first day, we had to step in when a few small boats came nearby. Some were anchored too close, while others simply didn’t have a secure hold. Instead of taking action, the owners just stared at us blankly until they, sometimes literally, drifted into our boat. It was a strange experience. And that’s not even mentioning the windsurfers who made no effort to steer clear of us. Poetto definitely wasn’t the highlight of our trip. What made the stay enjoyable, however, was meeting up with Thomas from New Hope. We had spent almost six weeks anchored in the same bay in Mallorca, so it was really nice to run into him again here in Sardinia. That same evening we invited him over to share some tuna. The catch, as mentioned in a previous post, was far too much for the two of us to finish. And sharing a meal is always more enjoyable with good company. One of my favorite pizzerias, Gusteau, is also located here, so of course we went out for a pizza night together. Still, I knew pretty quickly that I didn’t want to stay much longer. The bay was just too busy for my taste. From a practical standpoint, it made sense to be there. We were waiting for a package to be delivered, and the Superpan, a large Italian supermarket, was nearby which made it easy to stock up on delicious Italian products. Poetto itself has a distinct retro vibe. I noticed it the last time we were here, but this time it stood out even more. It feels like time has stood still. The place has a certain charm, though it also appears a bit run-down. It is not really ideal for walking, although the hike to the tower on the hill, past the military area, turned out to be fairly pleasant. Unfortunately, the intense heat and steep slopes made me question my decision more than once along the way. After a few days, we had enough. We were both in need of some peace and quiet. On top of that, the forecast predicted unfavorable swells in the bay. So we decided, along with Thomas, to lift anchor and head for a quieter spot. That is one of the great things about traveling by boat. If you no longer enjoy a place, you can simply move on.

A sunset trip toward Maracalagonis, not the easiest name to pronounce. The nearby bay at Torre delle Stelle is a bit easier to say. There are no large hotel chains here, just villas scattered across the hillside and a quiet sandy beach with two small beach bars. It’s a big contrast to the busy atmosphere of Poetto. The calm here is immediately noticeable. We’re not alone: Thomas from New Hope is with us. We enjoy Piña Coladas on his foredeck, light the barbecue and set up an outdoor movie night with a projector, a big screen and plenty of popcorn. The movie? Waterworld, fitting for life on a boat. Since it’s a film from the ’90s, we assumed it would last about 90 minutes. But nearly three hours later, we’re still watching and wondering how long it actually goes on. The credits finally roll after 1 a.m. Turns out we had started the director’s cut… Probably a good idea to check the runtime next time. As for the film itself: lots of action, not much of a story. I expected a bit more. But the whole experience made up for it. A cozy night under the stars like that is definitely something we’d do again. Being anchored in a place like this feels almost magical. At night, the scent of the forest fills the air. The villas on the hillside glow softly and the star-filled sky makes the whole bay sparkle. Until the swell comes in, that is. At one point, the boat was rocking in every direction. Not the most comfortable, but still bearable. On our last evening in the bay, we head to shore with Thomas and his cat, Captain. We take the dinghy to the beach, dig our toes into the cool sand, and grab some ice cream from the beach bar: a classic Cornetto and a Magnum with almonds. A simple but perfect way to end our stay. The next morning, around 8 a.m., we lift anchor and head off to the next bay.

It’s still pretty early when we lift up the anchor. The sky is just starting to lighten, but the sun isn’t up yet. First, we hoist the dinghy onto the deck, then quietly slip out of Port de Pollença bay. Everything is quiet on the other boats. Everyone is probably still asleep. The sea is calm, almost glassy at times. Not long after, the sun rises behind the mountains, casting a warm orange glow over our faces, the boat and the water around us.
We glance back at Mallorca one last time. What a beautiful island. It feels a little strange to be leaving it behind. After a few hours, Menorca shows up on the horizon. It is much flatter compared to the mountainous Mallorca. We are making good progress with both the mainsail and jib up.
If you were tracking us on AIS through Vesselfinder or MarineTraffic, it probably looked like we were heading for Menorca for a quick stop. But just before sunset, we tack and set a straight course for Sardinia. At nine in the evening, our watch schedule kicks in. We take turns with three hours on and three hours off. I start the first watch while the sea is still calm. Greg takes over around midnight.
Thanks to the autopilot, we do not have to steer, but we stay alert, regularly checking for other boats or floating debris. We sail a bit south of our planned route. Luckily, the wind shifts a few hours later, and we can get back on track. Just before three in the morning, my alarm goes off. It is time for the watch swap. The sea has gotten a bit rougher. The waves make it feel like we are riding a rocking horse.
I look up at the incredible starry sky. There are tons of stars, the Milky Way is clearly visible and even a train of Starlink satellites passes by. The sea is magical too. Tiny flashes of bioluminescent plankton light up with every wave. It reminds me of a scene from Life of Pi. It feels almost dreamlike. Around six in the morning, as dawn breaks, I crawl into bed. The constant rocking makes it hard to fall asleep. When I wake up around nine, I am anything but rested. I have a stiff neck, sore back and a slight headache. The sea stays rough all morning. Between the rocking, I sneak in short naps, read my book (Host by Peter James) and stare out at the water, hoping a dolphin will pop up any second. I am totally hooked on the book. The story is about artificial intelligence and cryonics. Time flies as I get caught up in the twists and turns. It has been ages since a story pulled me in like this. In a few days, I finish the whole six hundred page book. Day two is pretty chill. By afternoon, the waves finally calm down enough so we can open the fridge without everything flying out. It is hot, a bit too hot, and finding relief is tough. Luckily, we have our watermaker, so we can enjoy a refreshing shower in the evening. Still no dolphins or other sea life. At sunset, I play some music to try and lure them out, but no luck.
During my watch, I start watching the series The Boys to pass the time. Day three and the trip is getting a bit monotonous. We are still sailing most of the time, but honestly, we were hoping to see dolphins by now. Nope. Just endless blue water all around. No other boats in sight either. We decide to tweak our route. Rather than heading to Carloforte, we aim for Poetto bay. If we had stuck to the original plan, we would arrive in the middle of the night, which is not ideal given the many nearly invisible fishing buoys along the Sardinian coast. Also, it is time to swap our Spanish flag for the Italian one. After another sticky hot day, I hop in the shower. Still half wet and wrapped in just a towel, I go out to water the plants. Right then, I hear the bait clicker rattling. Something is on the line.
Wearing just the towel, I try to reel it in. It is not easy and soon I realize it is a big one. It is a tuna. After about half an hour of wrestling, Greg takes over while I throw on some clothes. Finn pokes his head out, curious. He knows exactly what fishing means by now.
When the fish finally surfaces, I grab the net and haul it onboard with a big effort. My heart is racing with adrenaline. What a catch. A ten-kilo, eighty-centimeter tuna. The biggest we have ever caught. One thing is for sure. We have plenty to eat for the next few days. Greg handles the filleting. It is something I definitely cannot stomach. Just the smell of fish and blood makes me gag. Greg is surprised. He cannot believe how strong my nose is. Yes, filleting fish is definitely not my thing. Day four and we are almost at our destination. I start tidying up on deck while Greg hoists the parasailor. When we arrive, we dodge a big container ship, lower the parasailor, and get greeted by Thomas from New Hope, who is anchored in the bay too. He points us to a great spot to drop anchor. After 317 miles and 82 hours at sea, it feels amazing to finally be here.
After a refreshing nap, we invite Thomas aboard for sushi, ceviche and grilled fish. We hang out for hours, enjoying the food and each other’s company.
Feeling happy and content, we finally crawl into bed, ready for new adventures in Sardinia.

By now, we know the bay at Port de Pollença really well and we drop the anchor of our El Burro at our usual spot near the military area, the lighthouse and La Fortaleza. Just after we arrive, the sun sets behind the impressive mountains. The next day, we meet up with the crew of Kalypso, Santi and Nora. They have two guests visiting, so they join us for some drinks on our boat. An Argentinian, two Belgians, a Frenchman and two Germans, it almost sounds like the start of a joke. I’m still amazed by how many fellow sailors we’ve already met, from all over the world, all finding their way to the Mediterranean. The day after, we invite them over for the famous El Burro barbecue. I think barbecuing on our boat has become kind of a thing by now. The six of us, plus our two cats, are hanging out on the foredeck. It’s a bit tight since the boat isn’t that big, but we recently discovered it’s actually a nice spot to sit when we have more people. It’s definitely roomier than the cockpit. We grill chicken and pineapple on the barbecue, pass around some salads and everyone happily digs into the snacks. We spend hours chatting under a stunning starry sky. For dessert, we have grilled peaches with cinnamon and marshmallows. Sounds like a weird combo, but it totally works. Since we’re still in Mallorca, we also meet up with the Alcudia crew: Isa, Benji, Lluis and Stevie. We grab burgers at our favorite place, Tirano Street Food, and this time we say a proper goodbye. Though I’m pretty sure we’ll see Isa and Benji again in Greece. The next few days are all about getting ready. We spot a good weather window to leave on Wednesday, the 02nd of July. We reinforce the solar panel, check the rigging, replace the flag lines, tidy up the storage locker, check the engine, and more. It’s a long to-do list, but getting everything in order gives us peace of mind. And then, just as the sun rises, we lift the anchor and watch Mallorca disappear behind the horizon after eight months. We never expected to stay this long, but the island really surprised us with its beauty and wild nature. And of course, we’ve made some amazing memories here with wonderful people. Hasta luego, Mallorca!

Tranquility. Peace. We really needed a break. No social plans, no distractions. Just the two of us and our cats. Alcudia Bay didn’t feel right anymore. It had gotten way too crowded and noisy. Hotels were holding aquagym sessions on the beach for big groups of tourists. Banana boats and jet skis kept racing past. In the evenings, cover bands blasted music across the water. During the day, it was almost impossible to just sit on the boat and relax without all the background noise. It became too much. So finding the bay at La Canova was such a relief. Only one other sailboat nearby. No loud music, no commotion. Just a beautiful beach, a lush green forest behind it and mountain views all around. I took out my sketchbook and started drawing. One mountain especially stood out with its unique shape. I’ve always loved drawing and I must admit I'm pretty good at it, but I had never tried travel sketching before. Now I wonder why I waited so long. It’s really calming to study your surroundings and slowly put all the details on paper. That evening we got comfortable on the deck with the cats, some snacks, pillows, blankets and a good book. After sunset the sky turned into a beautiful blanket of stars. Some were clearly visible, others were faint, but you could still sense them there. Sleeping out on the deck felt magical. The temperature was perfect. The cats curled up beside me. Greg stayed out there too, until around three in the morning when his back started hurting and he moved to the bed inside. I honestly slept better than I had in a long time. I woke up with the first light and stayed awake as the sun came up and warmed everything around us. The next day was just as peaceful. We took a walk through the nearby nature reserve and then cooled off with a swim. At first we thought about sailing to Menorca the following day, but the weather forecast looked rough and we decided comfort was more important than fighting waves. So around five in the afternoon we pulled up the anchor and set off on a calm sunset sail toward Port de Pollença.

I've lost count of how many times we've sailed in and out of this bay. But this will be the last time for a while. We've decided to sail back to Greece and spend the winter there. Before we can leave, though, we still have a few things to take care of in Alcudia. We've ordered a 470-watt solar panel that we need to pick up and install. The plan is to mount it on the bimini, but first we need to build a solid structure for it. And of course, we’re saying goodbye to the people we've known here for so long. Or rather, we’re just saying “hasta luego.” We’re going back to our favourite Indian restaurant one last time, where the table was once again filled with colourful dishes. After that, we had a chocolate tasting: Belgium versus Switzerland. Switzerland came out on top, although I have to admit the flavours were so different that it was nearly impossible to compare. And honestly, with five Swiss people and just one Belgian, it wasn’t a fair fight anyway. Still, it was a GREAT evening! The weather isn't cooperating at all. Not because it’s rainy or cold, quite the opposite. It’s so hot during the day that we barely have the energy to do anything. Cooling down is tough, even for the cats. On the final day before we lift anchor, we’ll take Nelly to the vet for her rabies shot. After that, we’ll run some errands, do a few loads of laundry and (mostly) finish installing the solar panel.

At sunrise, we are already up on deck, ready to lift the anchor and sail from Alcudia to Pollença. It seemed like a great idea at the time, although after a short night thanks to a cozy barbecue in our cockpit, it feels a bit less appealing. There is a light breeze, so we hoist the sails and sail on a beam reach towards Alcanada. But as soon as we reach the shelter of Coll Baix, the wind completely disappears. We start the engine and lower the sails. As we enter the bay of Pollença, it immediately feels familiar. Our friends are already there: On Y Va, Muhuhu and New Hope. Donna is with us too, they joined the early morning sail. Greg is leaving for Belgium in two days to surprise his sister on her wedding day. In the meantime, he gives me a short but important briefing on how to manage the power usage, which valves to close in case of emergency, how to let out more anchor chain, and most importantly how to start the outboard motor of our dinghy. On June 12, the moment arrives. I start the dinghy’s outboard and drop Greg off ashore. From that point on, I am alone on the boat. Well, almost alone, since our cats are with me and there are still friends anchored in the bay who I know I can count on. The days that follow are actually really pleasant. Life on board feels calm and familiar and I start to truly enjoy the solitude. In the evenings, I often join the neighbours for dinner. We have cozy pasta and pizza nights, Caetlin invites me for her delicious quiche, and afterward we play card games. I feel truly grateful for these warm moments and the support around me. The outboard motor remains a challenge. It fails to start more often than not, which is frustrating. Luckily, Ben is always patient and keeps explaining what I need to do and what to look out for. One evening, I notice a thunderstorm building over the mountains. To be safe, I let out more anchor chain and keep a close eye on the weather. Thankfully, the storm stays away. Aside from a bit of rain and some gusty wind around four in the morning, everything stays calm. My anchor alarm became my closest companion that week. Before I know it, the week has passed and I receive a message from Greg saying he has landed. Soon after, I pick him up at the dinghy dock. George and Sinead from Muhuhu had already left earlier that day and we feel that our goodbyes to the others are coming closer as well. That evening, we celebrate Oriane’s birthday from Bee Sailing. Slowly everyone begins making plans to sail to Menorca. We first need to return to Alcudia to install our new solar panel and to celebrate the splash day of Isa and Benji from Malou. But before all that, we host one last evening on our boat. We cook Asian food and enjoy the atmosphere, the laughter and the never-ending conversations. Saying goodbye is hard. We have spent six weeks almost constantly with Donna and New Hope and at least four weeks with the others. Of course, we know we will see each other again, probably somewhere in Greece, but the farewell still feels strange and a little empty. We lift the anchor and head back to Alcudia to take care of a few final things. Once that is done, we plan to follow the others and continue our journey east.

Travel isn’t so much about the place you’re going, but about the people you meet along the way. And here in Port de Pollença, we’ve felt that more than ever. From the very first moment, it was one big celebration. Barbecues on Thomas’s boat, with the smell of freshly grilled food floating through the air and laughter that just kept going. During watersports, we ran around with wet hair, completely happy. It wasn’t really about what we were doing, but that we were doing it together. The past few weeks have been full of those small, perfect moments. Lying on the catamaran’s trampoline with a hot chocolate in our hands, while the stars sparkled above us and the stories only got better. Wandering through the market, eating burgers together, sharing pizzas on the beach with sand between our toes and the sun warming our skin. And playing games where laughing mattered far more than winning. And the flotilla? That was really just one big floating party. A warm family feeling where new faces immediately felt like old friends, and old friends felt like they had never been away. Port de Pollença is beautiful, but it’s mostly the people and the moments we shared that made this trip so special. Memories to cherish forever, made on the water, in the sun, and under the stars.

We hoist the mainsail and sail with a broad reach toward Cap Formentor. Because of the mountains, the wind is very unpredictable with lots of gusts, but there are no waves, so it’s still manageable. We decide to sail a bit further offshore first to find more stable wind and avoid having to tack too often. After a long sail out, we tack to head toward our destination. We decide to sail straight to Alcudia instead of Coll Baix, which doesn’t look all that comfortable from a distance. The VHF radio is busy. Conversations overlap and we hear Spanish, English, French and Italian. Alcudia feels familiar. We drop our anchor and greet all the boats we know, both the ones already here and the flotilla boats – Donna, On Y Va, Muhuhu and New Hope. Shortly after, we see Bee Sailing entering the bay. We met Eliseo and Oriane last year in Ibiza, so it’s nice to run into them here again. On Saturday, the bay is crowded, and unfortunately, we notice it’s not the same Alcudia as a month ago. Jet skis, banana boats, glass-bottom boats, motorboats… and hundreds of tourists relaxing on the beach enjoying the warm weather. Way too busy and chaotic for us. We already miss the quiet winter and spring seasons. But Alcudia has its perks too. We meet Isabelle and Benjamin from Malou again and organize a cozy barbecue with them on our boat. Alcudia is also convenient: we do the laundry, go to the supermarket and visit the ferreteria. Then we lift the anchor and sail back to Pollença, which now feels just a bit more idyllic.

After a fun lunch with the whole group in Port de Pollença, we all decide to head out together the next day to Cala Figuera. The next morning, everyone pulls up anchor and we cruise out of the bay in a little flotilla. The wind that was supposed to show up never does, so the sails come down and we do the whole trip on engine. The swell is pretty big and long, but it’s not too bad. Our El Burro handles it like a champ. With a freshly cleaned hull and a shiny prop, we’re almost a knot faster, and to our surprise, we even end up overtaking a few of the others. We follow New Hope, riding an impressive following swell around Cap Formentor and eventually drop anchor in the insanely clear waters of Cala Figuera. One by one, the rest of the crew joins us: Electric Keith, On Y Va, Donna, Lena, Bohemia and Muhuhu. Not long after, someone throws out the idea of rafting up. At first, I’m not totally sure. The cala seems kinda small for that, but I go along with it. Turns out, it’s way easier than I expected. Thomas helps us tie on, which definitely makes it smoother. The boats are nice and steady, there’s no swell and the whole place is just stunning. We’re tucked in between towering cliffs. That evening, we all gather on New Hope for Indian curry night. The table’s packed with colourful vegan dishes. The food is delicious and the vibes are perfect. We wrap up the night in the cosiest way possible: hot chocolate under a blanket on the trampoline. Next morning, the bright blue water is calling, so I jump in, only to get a sharp little shock... jellyfish. Tiny needles sticking out of my arm. I swim on, but start to feel a bit panicky. The pain’s worse than I expected. I head back to the boat. Luckily, vinegar, hot water, an antihistamine and some cream sort it out. We take it easy the rest of the day: go for a walk, chill and in the evening we set up a beach BBQ. Should’ve known better, really... doesn’t take long before the Guardia Civil shows up. Oops. Campfires and barbecues are a big no-no. We pack up quick and head back to the boats. The next morning, it’s anchors up again as we head off to the next bay.

After a short but peaceful night, we get ready to leave early, aiming to reach Pollença before the wind and rain catch up with us. The engine starts, the anchor is lifted and we set off. Behind the mountainous rocks, the wind is somewhat calm, although we're mostly heading straight into it. Fortunately, the waves haven't arrived yet, so for now, it's a smooth journey. After about two hours, we round the cape. We've managed to stay ahead of the waves and reach the other side without any issues. Unfortunately, the wind then mostly dies down, while the waves start to pick up. We unfurl the headsail, but keep the engine running a bit longer to continue sailing comfortably. We then try sailing under wind power alone, but with less than 10 knots of true wind and a rolling sea that makes the boat rock, it's far from pleasant. So the engine goes back on. We're relieved when we sail into the bay. It's quiet there; only our friends from SV Donna and New Hope are anchored. The water is calm. We tidy up the boat, eat something and treat ourselves to a well-deserved nap.

We are sailing in a flotilla towards Cala Sant Vicenç and keeping in touch via VHF channel 77. Not long after, Thomas lets us know that dolphins are swimming around his boat, and shortly after, we spot them too. Sailing Donna is lucky, as the dolphins swim directly toward their boat. From a distance, we only see occasional splashes and a few dorsal fins. We are clearly the slowest in the group and quickly fall behind, but it doesn’t really bother us. It feels like mid-summer: no breeze, a bright sun and only some gentle swells. The water maker is running, the washing machine is doing its thing and we're making ice cubes for iced coffee. It feels like a luxury sail. Five miles from our destination, the weather starts to change. The sky is cloudy, but there is still no wind. Our friends are already in the bay, which is otherwise completely empty. The surrounding buildings and hotels aren’t exactly a pleasant sight, but the water is crystal clear, and we have a beautiful patch of white sand to drop our anchor on. Dark clouds are rolling in from the mountains, and we hear the first rumbles of thunder, but fortunately, most of the storm passes us by. In the evening, we are visited by the Guardia Civil. They check our boat papers, IDs, and boating license.

We rented a car for three days and drove towards Artà. There, we strolled through the charming little town and went for a walk in the Parc Natural de la Península de Llevant. At the top of the hill, we were rewarded with a stunning view over the bay. Definitely worth it. The next day, we followed the coastline and stopped in Figuera, Cala d'Or and Portocolom. In Portocolom, we found a bench and had some baguette, grapes and cheese. Simple, but so delicious. One of those little moments that just makes you happy. On our last day with the car, we took care of a few practical things. I had a hospital appointment with a specialist. It was necessary, in theory, but the specialist did so little that it ended up feeling pretty pointless. After that, we made a quick stop at Leroy Merlin. Then we returned the car at the airport and took the bus back to Alcúdia. There, we started our round of goodbyes. Although “goodbye” might be a bit much, since chances are we’ll run into many of these people again somewhere on the Mediterranean. We had lunch with Margau and Alex from the sailing boat Alma, enjoyed a drink on deck with Isabelle and Benjamin from Malou, and later went out for Indian food. We also ran into Benny and Sonja from Tai Pan, a couple from Antwerp we had already met last year in Mallorca. Always nice to see familiar faces again. The night before our departure, we celebrated Stevie’s birthday with a cosy dinner on her boat. And then the moment came. On Thursday, May 08th, we cast off the lines and set off once more.

Next stop: Sóller! Monday has something special in store: a pirate battle in the bay. It is a re-enactment we definitely do not want to miss. We leave the bay of Cala Bóquer and are immediately met by gusty downdrafts rushing down from the mountains. Before long, we are able to hoist the sails. Behind us, the sky turns dark grey and we watch the rain pour down like a thick curtain. Luckily, we stay just ahead of the storm and sail straight into the sunshine. Couldn’t have timed it better. We also make sure to give Nelly some extra love today, it’s her birthday after all. She’s 15 now! When we arrive in Sóller, the search for a good anchorage begins. Our friends Ben and Caetlin from Sailing Donna are already in the bay and send us some helpful tips on which boats are on moorings and which are properly anchored. On our second try, the anchor finally holds. The next day, we head out with Ben, Caetlin, and Thomas from New Hope. First we stop for coffee, then we do some grocery shopping, and finally we walk back loaded with full backpacks and a little cart trailing behind us. Sunday, May 11 is quite rainy, so we take it easy and stay onboard for most of the day. Then, on Monday, May 12, the celebration begins. It is much bigger than we had expected. Early in the morning, we already hear loud bangs all around us. We meet up on Thomas’s catamaran for piña coladas and snacks. With six people, every bit of space is welcome. A little background might help explain what we are witnessing. The celebration is called El Firó, an annual event that commemorates the victory of the people of Sóller over an attack by Barbary pirates in 1561. The entire town transforms into a vibrant historical stage filled with costumes, swords, cannons, war cries and complete chaos. Everyone gets involved. Some people are dressed as Moors, others as Christian defenders. The scenes unfold on the beach, in the bay and in the town square. We all climb into Thomas’s dinghy with snacks and drinks and head into the heart of the action. The battle begins on the water. Pirates approach by boat while fireworks and smoke bombs go off all around us. One even lands in our dinghy. There is so much happening that we can barely take it all in. The pirates make their first attempt to land but are pushed back. They try again at another beach. It is spectacular and we are so happy we got to witness it. After spending hours in the hot sun, we return to Thomas’s catamaran and fire up the barbecue. We enjoy chicken, shrimp, pineapple, coleslaw, pasta salad, and more. It truly feels like a feast. Later, we watch the sunset and spend almost an hour discussing where to sail next. It is not easy to decide with the weather being so unpredictable. The following morning around 10 o’clock, we pull up the anchor and set course for Cala Sant Vicenç.

The sea is like a mirror as we sail out of the bay of Alcudia. I look behind me and already feel a sense of nostalgia when I think of our new friends in the bay. What a unique life we have, and creating new memories and saying goodbye to each other are definitely part of it. Still, it always feels a bit strange, especially when we’ve stayed in one place for a long time. After five months, everything felt so familiar and safe. Today we’re heading towards Cala Bóquer, which, if I could choose, is definitely my favorite bay on Mallorca. As I mentioned, the sea is like a mirror, so we start with the engine on for the first few hours. After that, we can sail, but at a very slow pace. The cliffs along Mallorca’s coastline are impressive, and we can’t help but be in awe of them. Just before entering the bay of Cala Bóquer, I spot a group of dolphins either hunting or playing. At least five bottlenose dolphins, the larger kind. They're still far off, but you can clearly make out their fins and shiny backs. Dolphins, finally! We avoid the Posidonia and drop our anchor in crystal-clear, pool-blue water. People on the shore are lying on the small beach or the rocks, accompanied by a few goats. Small, blue fish swim under our boat. We don’t have any internet here, so we fully enjoy our offline day. The wind shifts, and our chain gets stuck behind a rock. We’ll sort that out tomorrow. That evening, we see the dolphins again near the entrance of the bay. They’re playing with the only fishing buoy floating around. The wind dies down, the sun sets, and the sound of cicadas echoes through the bay. Wonderful! There are no buildings here, so no light pollution, but the sky is so cloudy that we can barely see any stars. We’re in for a quiet night. Greg tells me it rained, but I was sleeping so deeply that I didn’t notice anything. The next day, we leave as the wind picks up again. Our anchor chain comes loose easily. On to Soller!

The Fira de la Sípia has kicked off again, a yearly culinary and nautical festival that celebrates local maritime traditions with the squid as the star of the show. We wander around a bit and have to admit, there is more going on than we expected. Stalls everywhere serve up squid-based dishes, there is a lively market, nautical exhibitions, live music and even a big fair. It is all quite fun, although a little too crowded for our liking. We are simply not used to being surrounded by so many people anymore. Then the weather changes. The week starts with rain and grey skies. For us, it is the perfect time to install our new watermaker, the Schenker Zen30. The strong winds create some chaos in the bay. One of the boats breaks loose and drifts into Stevie’s boat. We see it all happen. Greg immediately jumps into the dinghy. Together with Lluis and a few others, they manage to secure the boat just in time. The owner had been working on the beach and witnessed the whole thing. Thankfully, he was nearby and could safely re-anchor his boat. In the end, both boats escape with only minor damage. On April 19, I prepare for a long hike of 23 kilometers. From Port d’Alcudia, I head toward Albufera, following the 11.5 kilometer trail and then walking the same route back. Along the way, butterflies dance around me, birds sing their sweetest songs and the air is filled with the scent of wildflowers and fresh grass. I feel fantastic. On Easter Monday, the bay is full of life. Motorboats cruising around, jet skis flying by and people paddling around on SUPs. It’s busy but in a fun way. We hop into our dinghy and set course for the little island with the lighthouse of Alcanada. There is not much to do there. A simple path leads to the lighthouse and that is pretty much it. But among the rocks, it feels like a different world. We go searching for treasures and find all sorts of things. Tiny hermit crabs, bright red starfish, curious little fish, swaying anemones and even a crab make an appearance. We also take a short sailing trip around the bay, just about an hour and a half out and back. Conditions are excellent and we sail at a good pace, around five to six knots in fifteen knots of wind. When we return, I drop the boat hook into the water. Of course, it sinks straight to the bottom. Luckily, the next morning the water is calm and still, like a mirror, and we are able to retrieve it quickly. The rest of the month passes peacefully. We catch up with friends, take care of a few small jobs on board, enjoy the quiet moments and slowly begin making plans to set off again. All we need now is a good weather window. With this unpredictable spring weather, that may be easier said than done.

Finally, the first barbecue of the year on board! Such a fun and relaxed way to kick off April. Time is flying and by now we almost feel like locals in the bay. It’s not too busy yet and since we’re not alone here, we’re totally fine with staying put for a while. If the weather plays along, we’d like to do some day trips this month to get back into the sailing groove. We don’t really have big sailing plans for this year. Maybe head towards Corsica and then on to Greece? We’ll see. No fixed route, just going wherever we feel like and following our intuition. At least the first week of April is off to a great start. The weather is amazing, we’re relaxing on board, did a solid 19-kilometer hike from Port d’Alcudia to Coll Baix and back, spent a lovely afternoon on Stevie’s boat and are just soaking in all the beauty this unique lifestyle has to offer.

We’re up early. A quick grocery run, then we head back out to sea. The wind forecast calls for strong easterlies, so we decide to sail towards Port d’Alcúdia already. Better now than battling waves later. Along the way, a lone dolphin glides by, barely paying us any attention. Where have all the playful ones gone? Around three in the afternoon, we arrive in our familiar bay. In the distance, we see Stevie waving at us. We tie up to the buoy and instantly feel at home again. This weekend, Port d’Alcúdia is all about the Fira de la Sípia, an annual celebration of maritime traditions and the pride of the local cuisine: cuttlefish. It promises to be a weekend full of flavour, music and discovery. We’re looking forward to it!

As soon as we’re free from the mooring buoy, we set course for Pollença. The trip takes a bit longer than expected, but the sea is calm and there’s just enough wind to sail so we’re not complaining. We have to tack a few times to stay on course. No dolphins today, but we do spot thousands of Velella velella, drifting by like a purple-blue blanket on the water. It’s kind of magical. By late afternoon, we drop anchor in a nearly empty bay near La Fortaleza. It used to be a military fort, but now it’s a luxury wedding venue. We end the day with a sunset and a laid-back barbecue on the boat.

I wake up with severe stomach pain. I had been dealing with it for two weeks already, but it gradually got worse. Time to see a doctor. Luckily, I can get an appointment quickly after sending a message via WhatsApp. After a short examination, I am referred to the hospital for a blood test and further check-ups. Not exactly how I had envisioned my Monday… So, some logistical planning is needed. The hospital is in Palma, a 40-minute drive from Port d’Alcudia, so we rent a car for the day. When we arrive in Palma, we accidentally go to the wrong hospital (which we only realize after an hour in the waiting room), but I receive good care. After some further tests, I am allowed to leave the hospital after 3.5 hours. Fortunately, I feel a bit better the next day. We still have the rental car for half a day, so we make the most of it. We drive to Cala Bóquer for a walk through beautiful nature: cliffs, wild goats, trees and blooming shrubs, with the highlight being the azure blue Mediterranean Sea at the end of the trail. We take a moment to reflect, eat our lunch and walk back to the car. On the way back, a baby goat greets us. Cala Bóquer remains a magical place. For the rest of the week, the wind and waves come from the wrong direction, blowing straight into the bay. We feel a bit trapped by the weather. But it could always be worse. Apart from a few showers, it stays dry, and the rocking isn’t bad enough to make things fall off the table. As for me, Julie, my condition fluctuates. Sometimes, the pain suddenly hits after eating, only to disappear again after a few minutes or hours. It’s still a mystery. I start keeping a journal, noting my symptoms and what I eat or do each day. And then, it’s the week of my (Julie’s) birthday. The sun is shining and it truly feels like spring. I take a dip in the water, we walk along the coast of Playa de Alcanada, and of course, we celebrate my birthday. Greg prepares a big breakfast and in the evening, we go out for dinner with our sailing friends, followed by drinks at the Irish pub. A lovely evening and I’m grateful for all the great people we’ve met on this journey. After another rough night with strong winds, the real spring weather finally arrives. I can’t wait for long walks, barbecues, swimming and carefree relaxation on the deck.

After almost five months on Mallorca, we set foot on a new island. After a tough crossing (see previous blog), we arrived in Ciutadella, a charming harbor town on the Menorcan coast. Despite our fatigue, we don’t want to let Greg’s birthday pass unnoticed. After a refreshing nap, we take a warm shower and decide to have dinner at a cozy pizzeria. Our boat is docked in the Ports IB marina, where we are joined by four other inhabited boats at the pier. One of the first things we notice is the countless stranded Velella velella lining the harbor’s edge. Velella velella, also known as “by-the-wind sailors,” are fascinating, floating colonial organisms. They look like small, blue disks with a transparent “sail” that allows the wind to carry them across the sea. Although they resemble jellyfish, they belong to the hydrozoa, a different group within the cnidarians. When they wash ashore in large numbers, they create a striking blue carpet on beaches and in harbors. Their massive presence often indicates shifting wind directions and ocean currents. The next day, we have a vet appointment for Finn. He needs a new rabies vaccination and a general check-up. Finn is not thrilled about it and meows the entire way to the vet from inside his backpack. Once there, he tries to hide in my sweater but patiently endures all the examinations. The verdict: Finn needs to go on a diet and the vet advises us to remove the white spot (a type of scar tissue) on his head. Luckily, he is otherwise completely healthy! Just in time for the next rain shower, we make it back to the boat. As soon as the weather clears, we head out to explore the town. Unfortunately, it looks a bit deserted. The shops and most restaurants are still closed and the streets are empty. The gloomy weather likely plays a role in this. A poster on the theater’s facade catches my attention. I quickly book tickets online, and that evening, we are immersed for 80 minutes in the intense world of flamenco. More rain the next day, but we don’t let it dampen our spirits. Between showers, we explore the city, which feels livelier now that it’s the weekend. We stroll through the market, buy sobrasada, taste tapas at El Hogar del Pollo and browse the small, cozy shops Ciutadella has to offer. In the late afternoon, we prepare the boat for departure. Originally, we had planned to sail from Menorca to France, but the weather forecasts for the coming days and weeks are not favorable. So, we decide to return to our familiar bay in Port d’Alcudia. We end the day with a beautiful sunset. A perfect farewell to Ciutadella before setting sail once again.

The new month begins with gloomy weather. The sky is gray, a cold north wind blows harshly, and dark clouds predict rain. We do the laundry—the basket was overflowing again—and take a beach walk. The sand, whipped up by the wind, stings my eyes. This isn’t quite how we imagined the start of the spring month. The next day is Sunday and we head to the market. There are more stalls and it’s bustling with activity. Tourists are returning to Mallorca, we notice it everywhere. Restaurants that were closed all winter get a fresh coat of paint and hotels set out their parasols and beach chairs. Fortunately, the number of boats in the bay remains limited. That evening, we’re at Isa and Benjamin’s for a cheese fondue, perfect for this dreary weather. We end the night with a card game, Ravine. For those unfamiliar: you work together to survive after a plane crash on an island. Really fun! Monday, March 3rd. Greg replaces the water filters while I give the boat a thorough cleaning. Afterward, we pick up a Too Good To Go package and treat ourselves to an ice cream on a terrace. The sun isn’t shining, but it still tastes great! We also get a croissant, a neapolitana roll and five pieces of cake. A little celebration! The next day, I sleep in. The wind howls, and the creaking of the mooring lines on the buoy keeps me awake. Low on energy, I occupy myself with creative tasks on board: drawing, writing and relaxing. The following day, Greg hosts a splicing workshop with Isa and Benjamin. It’s a cozy afternoon aboard Malou while the weather outside remains gray and rainy. In the evening, we enjoy delicious Indian food at Bombay Beach. Saturday, March 8th, the weather clears up. Early in the morning, we head to the marina to prepare the boat. Isa and Benjamin have rented a car and we take a road trip to Sant Elm, a picturesque coastal village in southwest Mallorca. It’s like a postcard: houses draped with bougainvillea in every shade of purple, the azure Mediterranean Sea as a backdrop and the rugged silhouette of Dragonera. The sun shines, people enjoy drinks and snacks on terraces, exactly what we do too. After a short walk, the weather turns, so it’s time for practical errands. We drive to Leroy Merlin and Bauhaus. On Sunday, we skip the market and tackle a to-do list: rinsing the boat, tidying up inside, filling the water tank, doing laundry. In the evening, we reward ourselves with Indian food from our new favorite restaurant. A table full of goodies—pure happiness. The next day, it rains buckets. The streets flood quickly. We go shopping, hopping from awning to awning to avoid the worst of it. Soaked, we return to the boat with a full cart. We load everything in, shower quickly and check out of the marina. Just in time, we take the buoy in the bay as a thunderstorm makes visibility zero. We haven’t seen this much rain in a long time. Luckily, it clears up later. That evening, Lluis and Isabelle visit, and we have a cozy night aboard El Burro. Tuesday was supposed to be our departure day, but the wind and waves keep us put. So, a lazy day on board it is. The next day, we get the boat truly ready. On March 13th, Greg’s birthday, we sail out of the bay with a beautiful sunrise.

Time to head back. We seem well-prepared this time. The boat is neatly tidied up, all loose items are secured, the key has been returned to the marina office and Finn has found a safe spot. After our previous sailing trip, we've become a bit more cautious. The sea can sometimes take you by surprise. There are plenty of waves at the marina entrance again, but luckily they all come from the same direction, making it reasonably comfortable. We keep the engine running until we've passed the tip of the island and the two approaching ferries are behind us. A solitary dolphin quickly swims under our boat. The crossing to Mallorca goes pretty well. There are some waves, but the sails stabilize the boat nicely. Finn is a bit anxious (and who can blame him?) and hides behind a cushion, with only his two ears visible. Meanwhile, Nelly is napping at the bow of the bed — hardcore! A rain shower passes by and the wind picks up. We're going fast! You could almost say we're sailing in a sportive way. We do have to tack a few times to reach Port d'Alcudia. As soon as we enter the Bay of Alcudia, the waves calm down. The last miles always seem the longest, but after a long journey, we grab the mooring buoy in our familiar bay. It almost feels a little like coming home.

Right at 7 o’clock, just before sunrise, we cast off the mooring and head out. The wind has almost completely died down, so we motorsail with the mainsail towards the breathtaking glow of the rising sun. A perfect start to Greg’s birthday! Past the little island of Alcanada, we set course for Menorca. From here, it’s a straight shot to Ciutadella! There’s still only a light breeze, but that’s fine. After a whole winter, the engine could use a good run. The waves make the boat roll a bit and Finn isn’t feeling great. But he goes inside and eats his food, so it can’t be that bad. We’re cruising along at around four knots, perfect! I keep hoping to spot some dolphins. Then the wind picks up and we start flying over the water, regularly hitting over 5.5 knots. The waves get rougher and the boat slides around now and then, but overall, it’s still comfortable. At times, the wind gusts over 30 knots, making things more intense, especially with the choppy waves. We furl the genoa, but the boat stays steady. We steer by hand more often to give our autopilot a break. When the wind dies down again, the waves stick around, making it really uncomfortable. We turn the engine back on, but the boat is getting thrown around in all directions. Then things get even worse—the wind picks up again, this time from the south. Waves are coming at us from every angle. We unfurl a bit of genoa, which helps slightly, but it still feels awful. Turning back isn’t an option with these conditions, so we have no choice but to push on. At one point, Greg grabs onto a handle for support, and a massive wave hits. The thing just snaps off in his hand! The last five miles are brutal. The waves throw us around, and a few times, we nearly lose control. The entrance to the harbor is rough, with waves crashing against the rocks, but we power through at full throttle. Finally, inside the channel, the wind and waves settle, and we manage to dock without any problems. We moor up at a finger pontoon, no help needed. What a birthday sail. The boat is a disaster zone. Bikes have come loose, the cockpit is a mess and inside, it looks like a bomb went off. We do a quick cleanup, check in at the marina, and then just crash for a bit. We’re completely wiped out. And just as we’re settling in, a massive thunderstorm rolls through with heavy rain. At least we didn’t have to deal with that out at sea! The harbor is peaceful now, so we head into town for some food.

The second half of February is calm. We are both down with the flu for a while, so there isn’t much action. We spend most of the day either sleeping or sitting in the sun in the cockpit. There are worse places to be sick. Fortunately, after some time, we regain our energy and start exploring again: we go for walks, I explore the bay on my paddleboard, and we take the dinghy out in search of octopuses. We don’t come across any, but we do discover that there are many wrecks along the rocky shoreline near our anchorage. In the last week of February, after a sunny moment in the cockpit, I suddenly feel the urge to jump into the cold water. First, I cautiously dip my toes in—cold, but bearable. Then, I slowly lower myself from my paddleboard into the water up to my waist and finally decide to go all in, submerging my head completely. The icy cold tingles against my skin and my breath catches for a moment, but afterward, I feel completely refreshed and reborn. I warm up in the sun, though my toes remain ice-cold. Luckily, a hot shower works wonders. Did you know that cold water diving has numerous health benefits? It stimulates circulation, strengthens the immune system and boosts endorphin production, giving a natural happiness kick. That evening, we have dinner with Isa and Benjamin at El Negre, which has now become our favorite restaurant in Puerto d’Alcudia. We had been there the week before as well, but to our disappointment, the famous spare ribs were sold out. So, second attempt! Thankfully, Isa and Benjamin had made a reservation. The ribs, served with roasted corn, stir-fried vegetables, fries and a creamy peanut coconut sauce, are absolutely delicious. It turns into a wonderful evening. We end the last day of February with ice cream at Dolce Vita. Long live Too Good To Go! For just 3 euros, we get three scoops of ice cream and two Neapolitana pastries. A perfect way to wrap up the month.

Ten days away from my familiar surroundings. My world revolves around El Burro, the place where I feel safe and have everything I long for. But still, I had booked a trip to Fuengirola, where my mom and my stepdad Dirk now live. The last time I saw my mom was in February last year when we flew to Belgium for a month to visit family and friends. Now that she lives in the south of Spain and we’re still in Mallorca, visiting is fairly easy. The flights were ridiculously cheap: 50 euros round trip, absurd when you think about it. So there I went, on January 31st, boarding that plane. A metal tube meant to get me safely to my destination. I used to love flying; now, it mostly gives me claustrophobic thoughts. Greg came with me to the airport. Saying goodbye felt strange. I can’t even remember the last time we spent an entire day apart. People sometimes ask how we manage to be together all the time, but honestly, it doesn’t bother me. Maybe that’s a good sign? When I arrived in Málaga, I walked to the exit with a nervous feeling. And there they were: mom and Dirk. Because we video call often, seeing them again felt familiar, as if it had only been a week. We took the train to Fuengirola and I was curious about their apartment and how they lived there. It felt both strange and familiar at the same time, like stepping into a book whose beginning I knew but whose continuation was still unknown. That evening, we had dinner together and caught up. It felt good to have mom and Dirk close, though I did miss Greg. But traveling with two cats by plane? Impossible. Especially with one who’s afraid of the sound of an engine. During my stay, I had also booked a trip to the Caminito del Rey, a famous hiking trail through an impressive gorge. Once one of the most dangerous paths in the world, but since its renovation in 2015, it’s safe and accessible to tourists. The bus ride there took us past endless lemon and orange groves. The scent of ripe fruit filled the air and the sun painted the landscape golden yellow. Upon arrival, we were given helmets and followed the guide along the wooden path high above the river. The views were breathtaking and we even saw vultures soaring above the mountains. Sometimes, I paused, looked around, and tried to take it all in: the immense depth below me, the soft whisper of the wind through the gorge, the distant cliffs standing out against the bright blue sky. The guide shared interesting facts about the history and nature of the area. Would I do it again? Yes, but preferably alone or with Greg. Walking in a group isn’t for me; I want to take my time and not feel rushed. Some parts also felt overly touristy, especially when we ended up at various souvenir stalls and food stands. The magic faded a little at that moment.
 The days flew by: walking through Fuengirola, a trip to Málaga, and… getting sick. The flu got me, probably thanks to the cramped space on the plane or train full of people. Still, I tried to make the best of it and enjoyed the time with mom and Dirk. Walking through Fuengirola together was nice, but I had underestimated how busy and noisy it could be. The contrast with the peace of the boat suddenly became painfully clear. I realised that quietness is becoming increasingly important to me. 
Saying goodbye to my mom and Dirk was difficult. The knot in my stomach was there from the moment we woke up that morning. You never know how long it will be before you see each other again. Thankfully, video calling exists, but it’s just not the same. Our hug felt tighter than usual. With the flu still lingering, I boarded the return flight. For a moment, I was even afraid I’d miss my first flight, the crowds and waiting triggered a slight panic attack. My breathing sped up, my head spun for a second. But I recovered, kept going and focused on the moment I’d be home again. After two flights (with a layover in Barcelona) and two bus rides, I finally arrived in the bay of Alcudia. Just in time for sunset. The sky turned a stunning blend of pink and orange behind the mountains, a painting of colours melting into each other. And then I knew: this is home. The boat is home. Greg is home. The cats are home. I took a deep breath and felt the tension from the journey slowly fade away. And just like that, I felt so much better.

The new year starts off quietly. The water is like glass and the mornings feel incredibly peaceful. We soak up the early sun, cuddle with the cats on deck and take in the beauty around us. It’s the perfect slow start to the year. On January 3rd, we pick up our rental car, an absolute steal at €167 for 28 days. Gotta love the off-season. The next day, we head straight into the mountains for a road trip through the Serra de Tramuntana. The drive is stunning: winding hairpin bends, dramatic mountain views and scenic picnic spots (some even have barbecues). We end up in Sóller, a charming village tucked between the peaks. Over coffee and a pecan-caramel brownie, we take it all in before wandering through the streets. The following days are a mix of adventure and downtime. Strong winds keep us on board on the 5th and 6th, so we hunker down and make the most of it. Greg whips up French toast with homemade kiwi compote from our last Too Good To Go haul, topped with rum raisins and whipped cream. A small feast. By the 7th, the wind has settled and we’re itching to explore. We visit the Reserva Natural de s’Albufereta, which turns out to be smaller than expected but still beautiful, and then head to Pollensa. It’s strangely quiet, not quite the lively place we imagined, probably due to siesta time. On a whim, Greg sets the GPS for the Formentor lighthouse and wow, what a drive. More hairpin bends, breathtaking cliffs and a lot of curious goats. The next few days are a mix of practical errands and little adventures. We tackle dentist visits and laundry on the 9th, then set off on another road trip to Valldemossa and Deià. Two of the most picturesque villages I’ve ever seen. Think cobbled streets, stone houses and mountain views that look straight out of a painting. By the 11th, a storm is on the way, so we move into the marina. Perfect timing for some retail therapy. B. and I. tag along as we hit Decathlon and IKEA, where we go all-in on the Swedish meatballs. That night, the storm arrives in full force, howling winds and all. The second half of the month is a mix of sun, rain and everything in between. By the 16th, I’m fed up with the constant rocking of the boat. The swell makes even the simplest tasks annoying and the howling wind through the rigging drives me nuts. But a few days later, the sun returns and we head out for a long hike in Alcanada. Fresh air, green forests and mountain views, exactly what I needed. A few spontaneous trips follow. We plan to visit Fornalutx on the 21st but end up in Palma instead, wandering the streets and stopping for ramen at Shifu. The next day is a quiet one on board. I make pine balm from needles I gathered in December and Greg catches a fish for Finn. On the 23rd, something magical happens. As we sit inside, we suddenly hear the unmistakable sound of a dolphin surfacing right next to the boat. The sea is completely still, the sky full of stars and the moment feels almost surreal. On the 25th, we set sail across the bay, cruising at around 6 knots with a wind speed of 10-15 knots. After anchoring for the night, we return the next day to our “home bay”, Alcudia. Then comes the 27th. The day everything goes wrong. The wind is howling through the bay when I hear a loud whistling noise. I peek outside and see our neighbor L. frantically gesturing towards our friends’ boat. And then I see it. The mooring buoy is still attached to the boat, but it has snapped off, and she’s drifting straight towards the rocks. I shout for Greg, who jumps into the dinghy. I toss him his phone and he speeds off. L. picks up S. in his dinghy and they race to help. But before they can get there, it happens. The boat hits the rocks (or maybe the seabed, we’re still not sure). From our boat, I feel completely helpless as Greg and the others do everything they can to save her. He climbs on board, quickly starts the engine (thank god B. and I. explained how it works before leaving for their home country) and reverses out. Luckily, the boat doesn’t seem to be taking on water. The rescue is far from over. As they try to drop the anchor, it gets tangled in an octopus trap on the seabed. Meanwhile, S.’s boat also breaks free. L. and S. manage to secure her just in time. It’s complete chaos. Greg eventually frees the anchor from our friends’ boat and the plan is to keep her moving until B. arrives. He’s already on his way back, completely unaware of the full extent of the situation. When B. arrives, Greg guides the boat safely into the marina. My hero. I couldn’t be prouder of how he handled everything. And I’m beyond grateful for the sailing community. We may all be out here doing our own thing, but when things go wrong, everyone steps up. That night, I barely sleep. Every gust of wind puts me on edge and I keep an eye on our anchor alarm. One thing’s for sure, I’ll never fully trust a mooring buoy again. The last few days of January are calmer. We go on a beautiful hike near Coll Baix, soaking in the views and laughing at pushy goats trying to steal our lunch. On the 30th, I pack my bags. I’m heading to Fuengirola for ten days to visit my mom and stepdad. It feels strange leaving Greg, the cats and the boat behind. I can’t even remember the last time I spent a day without him. But I’m also looking forward to some quality time with my mom. On the 31st, we drive through pouring rain to return the rental car before I catch my flight to Málaga. It’s been a wild month. Peaceful mornings, terrifying storms, rainy days spent curled up inside and sunny adventures in the mountains. A month full of contrasts. Just like life at sea.

Hi everyone, Happy New Year! I hope the year is off to a great start for you all. I’m excited to share my latest YouTube video where we set sail to Cabrera, a small island just south of Mallorca. I’d love to hear your thoughts. Feel free to leave a comment, drop a like and subscribe if you enjoy it. Your support means a lot! Muchas gracias, The El Burro Crew

After sailing for two miles, we anchor in a bay that immediately puts us at ease. The scenery around us is like a picture postcard: golden beaches, towering mountains and lush nature all around. If only the hotels along the beach were gone, the view would be perfect. We lower the dinghy to explore the area and soon find ourselves in a cosy little café called Patagonia. Looking at the display, I spot them: cinnamon rolls. I've been craving them for ages! I couldn't be happier with my hot coffee and my sticky, sweet bun. Sometimes life really doesn't need to be any more complicated. It doesn't take long to realise that this place has everything we need. The anchorage is well protected and if the weather changes there's a nearby marina where we can find shelter and fill our water tanks. There's a large supermarket a short distance away, while the local cafes and bakeries feel like little hidden gems. The area is also perfect for adventurers, with beautiful walking trails just waiting to be explored. We're soon joined by Isabelle and Benjamin from Malou. They'd been at the marina for a while, but decided to anchor with us in the bay. In the evening they invite us for dinner on their boat and we spend the night swapping stories. It's as if we've known each other for ages, even though we've only recently met in Almerimar. The next morning we set off together on a 15 kilometer walk. The trail takes us from Alcudia to Alcanada and back, along the coast and through forests, with views that leave us speechless at every turn. The nature here is simply breathtaking. Tired but happy, we end the day at the Patagonia café, where we enjoy a hot chocolate and tea. Sunday mornings start with a visit to the market in Alcudia's old town. The square is bustling with stalls full of fresh produce and the whole town seems to be there. It's such a lively, welcoming atmosphere. Later we meet Alex, a friend we met earlier in Ibiza. He's heading home for Christmas and has big plans to travel around South America with his girlfriend. We share a drink and catch up. Christmas is a mixture of warmth and cosiness. On Christmas Eve, we enjoy a big dinner on board, followed by a film under the covers with the cats curled up beside us. On Christmas Day, Isabelle and Benjamin invite us over. With mulled wine in hand, a delicious lasagne on the table and a fun card game, it's like living in a small, perfect bubble. On the 29th of December, we set off on an 11.5 kilometre walk through the s'Albufera de Mallorca Nature Reserve. The park is a birdwatcher's paradise and we're amazed at the variety of birds we see along the way. December 31st is upon us, a day filled with parties and resolutions for many, but for me it's always a day of reflection. There's something melancholy about the last hours of the year. My mind wanders to all the wonderful moments of the past year, but also to the uncertainty of what lies ahead. It's as if I'm caught between the past and the future, unable to fully embrace the present moment. We keep the evening simple: a cheese fondue, a film and a peaceful time just the two of us and the cats. No fireworks, no big party, just a quiet and intimate way to end a special year. Alcudia has really stolen our hearts, especially with its blend of nature, tranquillity, adventure and friendship. Life here feels like a pause and that's what we've been longing for.

I’m feeling much better. My back and neck are still sore, but at least I can move again without feeling like a robot. Later, I discover a massive bruise on my back, that explains the pain, of course. The crossing to Alcanada went smoothly. I have to admit: Greg is the true hero of this story. He manages the boat entirely on his own. I feel pretty useless, but I do manage to look around now and then and even take the helm for a bit. Small victory! We drop anchor in an idyllic spot. The water is calm, the sunset feels like a dream, and for the first time in days, I feel a little more like myself again.

I fall asleep and only wake up when the anchor is dropped. The rest of the day, I feel completely drained. I just can’t function. I don’t even know which bay we’re in, and honestly, I don’t care. I just want to sleep, hoping I’ll feel better later. The aftermath of the painful yet soothing massage.

A challenging journey to Porto Cristo, but luckily the crossing takes only an hour. Checking in at the marina goes smoothly. In the evening, we have pizza. The next day, we explore the town and discover that Rafael Nadal lives here. That immediately explains the impressive Sunreef 80 catamaran docked right behind us. Charmed by the surroundings, we decide to stay longer. With bad weather on the way (strong winds and high waves), there’s no reason to rush. Fortunately, the marinas are a bit cheaper at the moment. The following day, we take out our bikes and head to the Via Verde, a 28-kilometer green route connecting Manacor and Artà. The hilly terrain is sometimes a challenge with our folding bikes, but it’s breathtakingly beautiful. The green Mallorcan countryside never ceases to amaze us. After four hours of cycling and 25 kilometers, we return to our boat tired but satisfied. The next day, we visit Manacor, just a 15-minute bus ride away. Unfortunately, after a few hours, I start to feel pain in my neck, arms and legs due to a pinched nerve. I feel so unwell that all I want is to return to the boat. I spend the rest of the day in bed with a heating pad and arnica cream on my sore neck, shoulders and arms. The day after that is laundry day. My neck and shoulders remain painful and tingling and my whole body feels heavy. Even holding a book is only manageable for a few minutes. I wonder what’s going on with my body. Is it the long bike ride or is something else at play? On Monday, I spend nearly the entire day in bed. Greg goes looking for a physiotherapist or osteopath and finds Laura, my guardian angel. She offers me an appointment first thing the next morning. On Tuesday morning, I lie on her massage table. She immediately identifies a series of painful knots and explains that my body is completely blocked. According to her, my body is constantly in defense mode due to unresolved emotional trauma. It makes sense, considering my difficult childhood, but I’m surprised by how strongly my body is reacting. I thought I’d been doing well lately. After the treatment, I feel empty and confused. While Greg prepares the boat for departure, I take a warm shower and try to process everything.

We had a smooth and relaxing journey to Mallorca. The original plan was to anchor in Portocolom, but Greg’s gut feeling suggested otherwise. Without hesitation, we decided to continue on to Es Fogons. You can’t ignore that kind of intuition. Portocolom could wait for another time. Along the way, we made good use of both the headsail and mainsail, and just before sunset, we dropped anchor. To our relief, Finn avoided seasickness for the third time in a row. In fact, he even sat calmly under the sprayhood when the engine started. Could his fear of the engine noise and tendency to get seasick finally be over? Our anchorage offered a rather curious view: on one side, an exotic Burger King and a few remarkably ugly hotels. But if you looked to the right and ignored the rest, it was actually quite beautiful. The next day, we set off to explore the large Carrefour hypermarket. On the way back, it started to rain and we both felt a bit weak. We spent the rest of the afternoon inside: sleeping a little, eating a little and doing nothing else. Just resting. During the night, the swell began to pick up, and by morning, it had only worsened. The forecast promised no relief: the wind would strengthen further in the afternoon and the waves would grow even higher. We decided not to take any chances and called the marina at Porto Cristo. Fortunately, they had space for us. We quickly raised the anchor, it was time to leave!

We wake up and immediately notice the strong swell. Time to lift the anchor. After a quick coffee, we start the engine, but it cuts out right away. Greg checks it and discovers there’s air in the engine, which is strange. Fortunately, we manage to start it again, but the uneasy feeling remains. The trip to Cabrera is quite tough. We have to sail 11 miles against the waves and occasionally water splashes over the boat. It’s not ideal, but at least we can sail. Finn is safely tucked in his box with a sweater over his little head, sleeping soundly. He hardly notices anything. When we take down the sails and try to start the engine, the problem happens again. The engine cuts out, and only after bleeding it do we get it running again. It reminds us of the time the engine had the same issue and we suspect it’s again the check valve causing the trouble. We had applied for a permit for Cabrera in advance and Greg reserved a buoy yesterday for 9.5 euros per night. As we enter the bay, the waves finally disappear, and I feel relieved that we are safely anchored. The engine problems, though, don’t give much peace of mind. After the stressful journey, we tidy up the boat, take a nap, and then head out to explore the island. We follow the trail to the lighthouse. It’s immediately apparent how well-marked the paths are and how neat the island is. The nature is, as expected, beautiful. The next day, we continue exploring the island. We walk to the (closed) museum, the botanical garden, and the castle. There’s a large picnic area with tables, so we enjoy our lunch there. Afterward, we take the dinghy to the Blue Cave, where, according to rumors, manta rays should be. Unfortunately, we don’t see any. The following day, we set out with our El Burro to a spot on the map where, according to the chart, sperm whales, dolphins and sharks are supposed to be. It’s a deeper area and a gathering spot for these animals because there’s supposed to be a lot of food. We sail for almost six hours, full of hope, only to see a big, vague splash, something that looks like a giant turd (sperm whale poop?), and the bow of a sunken boat floating by. No sea life to be seen. Nevertheless, it was a beautiful, sunny trip, and in the end, we sailed all the way around Cabrera. We moor the boat back to a buoy in the bay.

A calm day on the water. Greg had already started the engine while I was still in bed. He wanted to sail to the next bay, a journey of 22 miles. I quickly got dressed and took the helm as we left the bay. The wind stayed away, so we motorsailed for most of the trip. The sea was calm, without waves, and Finn and Nelly slept peacefully on the bed. Around three in the afternoon, we dropped anchor. The engine was running well, no oil leaks. So far so good. The next day, we went for a walk nearby and treated ourselves to ice cream. The following morning, we woke up to heavy swell. That could only mean one thing: time to lift the anchor and set off again.

Today was a rough journey. The sea was already restless with waves and the constant passing of ferries only made it worse. Comfort was hard to find. Finn lay curled up miserably on the bench in the cockpit but suddenly jumped onto my lap while I was steering. He burrowed under my arm, making it much harder to steer. Meanwhile, I struggled to stay upright to avoid ending up on the floor with Finn. Inside, Greg was busy too. He discovered a problem with the engine: oil everywhere! It was gushing out through the dipstick, so he was dealing with that chaos while I struggled with Finn outside. To make matters worse, Finn started smacking his lips, an unmistakable sign that he was about to vomit. There I was, on a rocking boat, trying to gently place Finn on the cockpit floor as he threw up, all while doing my best not to panic. Stress level: high. Then came the big question: do we turn back to Palma or push on to our anchorage? In the end, we chose the latter. Greg kept a close eye on the engine to ensure it wouldn’t suddenly give out. I was so relieved when we finally dropped anchor in a reasonably sheltered bay. Finally, some peace. Tomorrow we’ll figure out exactly what’s wrong with the engine. The next day, Greg examined the engine right away. To his surprise, he found nothing unusual. He cleaned up the spilled oil and concluded that the dipstick might not have been secured properly. With the waves, oil could have leaked out. The next journey will tell. Since the sun was shining, we decided to go geocaching. There were two caches nearby, which we found quickly. I left El Burro stickers in the caches for the next finder. Next time, I might leave a small treasure. I still have some beach finds on the boat. The following day, I, Julie, was still in bed when I heard Greg raising the anchor. Apparently, we were about to sail 22 miles. 😃

We woke up early. Finn always enjoys waking us up at sunrise. This time, it worked out well because we had planned to leave early to weigh anchor and sail to Palma. We quickly managed to unfurl the genoa, though the wind was quite gusty today. Around noon, we arrived in Palma. A marinero guided us to our spot in the Real Club Nàutico. Fortunately, the marina is much more affordable in the off-season. Checking in was smooth. For those unfamiliar with it: when checking into a marina, they usually ask for your boat’s documents (registration and insurance) and your ID. Outside of Europe, you also get a visit from customs, but within Europe, we’ve only occasionally experienced that while at anchor. The rest of the afternoon was spent doing laundry. We had a huge pile built up and were really looking forward to taking a hot shower afterward. Unfortunately, the water was cold, which was quite a disappointment. The next day was a practical day: more laundry, installing a new anchor chain and repairing the engine’s water pump. Our old anchor chain was rusty and kept jamming in the anchor locker, so it really needed replacing. The water pump’s seal was also leaking, so we took care of that as well. It was a productive day, and in the evening, we treated ourselves to a delicious Japanese meal at Buga Ramen. Friday was less eventful. We did some shopping and, in the evening, enjoyed a lovely walk through the narrow streets of beautiful Palma. On Saturday, we brought out the bikes and rode to a small Christmas market hosted by the Swedish church community. Afterward, we cycled further through the city, past the cathedral and through the center. In the evening, we went to see the Christmas lights’ opening ceremony, but it ended up being a bit underwhelming. It felt more like an overly drawn-out kids’ show. In the end, we decided to head back to the boat and save the actual lights for the next day. On Sunday, we took a bike ride to Castell de Bellver. This stunning castle, perched on a hill just outside the city center, was built in the 14th century by order of King Jaume II of Mallorca. It’s one of the few circular castles in Europe and has served as a royal residence, a prison and a military depot over the centuries. Today, it’s a museum where you can learn more about the history of Palma and Mallorca. The views from the hill over the city and bay are breathtaking. On Sundays, entry is free, which made it even better. In the evening, we went back to see the Christmas lights and this time we truly enjoyed the thousands of twinkling lights spread all over the city. On departure day, we squeezed in one last load of laundry, took out the trash and got some fuel for the dinghy. And to our great relief, we finally had hot showers! It may seem like a small thing, but it felt amazing to have a proper warm shower before setting off again.