European Africa in Melilla

Julie

I get out of bed and immediately start tidying up and organizing the boat. Outside, Greg is already busy with the final preparations for our departure. Traveling by boat means making sure that everything is secure and that nothing can fall over during the trip. The dishes need to be done, the table cleared, and loose items stowed away. Additionally, we need to remove the mainsail cover, check the rigging and engine, plan the navigation, check the weather and ensure there are no lines left in the water. Around noon, Greg picks up Peter. We hoist the outboard motor and dinghy on board and then we're ready to set off. Ahead of us is a 90-mile journey to Africa, a new continent. Our destination is Melilla, which is still part of Europe. It will be a night crossing, something we haven't done since Mallorca to Valencia. We raise the anchor and, after a few minutes, set the mainsail and jib. The engine goes off. The sailing conditions are perfect. Peter has a big smile on his face; it’s been a while since he was on the open sea. His engine is broken, so he’s been stuck in Almerimar for months. Along the way, we see dozens of striped dolphins hunting. We try fishing too, but without success. We decide to sail without a watch schedule, which in hindsight wasn't a good idea. The irregular sleep leaves us constantly tired. During my night watch, I'm quietly reading when I suddenly hear a noise. Something is swimming behind our boat! I hear the sound of a blowhole opening and closing, a kind of "pppshoooew". I look at the stern of the boat and see a fin diving under us. In my head, I think, "This is it, orcas!" I wake Greg up and tell him something big is swimming behind our boat. We grab the flashlight and wait for them to reappear. At the next splash, we shine the light and discover it’s 'just' dolphins. My heart races for a few more minutes. The wind dies down, we start the engine and Greg crawls back into bed. The many ferries heading to Morocco or Melilla also make my heart race at times. On the AIS, I see a ferry set to pass just 10 meters away. "10 meters, that's a boat length!" I wake Greg again (poor Greg). The lack of sleep makes it hard for me to think clearly and make decisions. We change our course and luckily manage to avoid the enormous vessel. At sunrise, we can see land on the horizon. It's a strange feeling to approach a new continent. Along the way, we make a detour to save a floating, inflatable giraffe from drowning. Welcome to Africa! Our phone struggles to determine the time zone, causing some confusion. It frequently switches to Moroccan time, an hour earlier, while in Melilla it’s Spanish time. By noon, we arrive in Melilla, where we are warmly welcomed by the marineros. We immediately notice the large police and Guardia Civil presence. Melilla, a Spanish enclave on the north coast of Africa, borders Morocco and is often in the news due to migration issues. Many migrants try to scale the high fences surrounding the city to enter the European Union. This is why security here is so tight. Melilla is an autonomous city with a special status within Spain, similar to an autonomous region. The population is roughly half Spanish or European, while the other half is mostly Moroccan Muslims. There are also Jewish and Hindu communities. The cultural mix makes it special to walk around Melilla. It feels like Spain, but the Moroccan influences are so strong that you immediately realize you’re not really in Europe anymore. It’s hard to describe; you have to experience it yourself. The city itself is beautiful! Lots of art deco architecture, lovely beaches, and incredibly friendly people. And it’s cheap too. We pay only 5 euros per night for our berth in the harbor, diesel costs 1.10 euros per liter and Melilla is tax-free. The beach is amusing as well. There are signs everywhere prohibiting music, smoking, and jumping off the rocks, but these rules seem more like suggestions. People jump off the rocks, smoke on the beach and music plays in the background. We are surprised by how few tourists are here. Sometimes it feels like we’re the only ones... So peaceful! We visit a few museums, marvel at exotic plants and admire the architecture and splendor of the old city. Would I recommend Melilla as a vacation destination? Absolutely! One last tidbit: Nelly, our cat, finally figured out how to jump off the boat. Luckily, we caught her not far from the boat with the help of some treats. We’ll need to be extra vigilant when docked in the future. Oh, and yes, we crossed the border into Morocco. But that story deserves its own blog!

Boat & Crew

El Burro

Swallow Craft Design Group, Swift 33

Gregory Ramis Ferriol

Owner

Finn

Pet, Male

Nelly

Pet, Female

Julie

Owner