After a short but peaceful night, we get ready to leave early, aiming to reach Pollença before the wind and rain catch up with us. The engine starts, the anchor is lifted and we set off. Behind the mountainous rocks, the wind is somewhat calm, although we're mostly heading straight into it. Fortunately, the waves haven't arrived yet, so for now, it's a smooth journey. After about two hours, we round the cape. We've managed to stay ahead of the waves and reach the other side without any issues. Unfortunately, the wind then mostly dies down, while the waves start to pick up. We unfurl the headsail, but keep the engine running a bit longer to continue sailing comfortably. We then try sailing under wind power alone, but with less than 10 knots of true wind and a rolling sea that makes the boat rock, it's far from pleasant. So the engine goes back on. We're relieved when we sail into the bay. It's quiet there; only our friends from SV Donna and New Hope are anchored. The water is calm. We tidy up the boat, eat something and treat ourselves to a well-deserved nap.

We are sailing in a flotilla towards Cala Sant Vicenç and keeping in touch via VHF channel 77. Not long after, Thomas lets us know that dolphins are swimming around his boat, and shortly after, we spot them too. Sailing Donna is lucky, as the dolphins swim directly toward their boat. From a distance, we only see occasional splashes and a few dorsal fins. We are clearly the slowest in the group and quickly fall behind, but it doesn’t really bother us. It feels like mid-summer: no breeze, a bright sun and only some gentle swells. The water maker is running, the washing machine is doing its thing and we're making ice cubes for iced coffee. It feels like a luxury sail. Five miles from our destination, the weather starts to change. The sky is cloudy, but there is still no wind. Our friends are already in the bay, which is otherwise completely empty. The surrounding buildings and hotels aren’t exactly a pleasant sight, but the water is crystal clear, and we have a beautiful patch of white sand to drop our anchor on. Dark clouds are rolling in from the mountains, and we hear the first rumbles of thunder, but fortunately, most of the storm passes us by. In the evening, we are visited by the Guardia Civil. They check our boat papers, IDs, and boating license.

We rented a car for three days and drove towards Artà. There, we strolled through the charming little town and went for a walk in the Parc Natural de la Península de Llevant. At the top of the hill, we were rewarded with a stunning view over the bay. Definitely worth it. The next day, we followed the coastline and stopped in Figuera, Cala d'Or and Portocolom. In Portocolom, we found a bench and had some baguette, grapes and cheese. Simple, but so delicious. One of those little moments that just makes you happy. On our last day with the car, we took care of a few practical things. I had a hospital appointment with a specialist. It was necessary, in theory, but the specialist did so little that it ended up feeling pretty pointless. After that, we made a quick stop at Leroy Merlin. Then we returned the car at the airport and took the bus back to Alcúdia. There, we started our round of goodbyes. Although “goodbye” might be a bit much, since chances are we’ll run into many of these people again somewhere on the Mediterranean. We had lunch with Margau and Alex from the sailing boat Alma, enjoyed a drink on deck with Isabelle and Benjamin from Malou, and later went out for Indian food. We also ran into Benny and Sonja from Tai Pan, a couple from Antwerp we had already met last year in Mallorca. Always nice to see familiar faces again. The night before our departure, we celebrated Stevie’s birthday with a cosy dinner on her boat. And then the moment came. On Thursday, May 08th, we cast off the lines and set off once more.

Next stop: Sóller! Monday has something special in store: a pirate battle in the bay. It is a re-enactment we definitely do not want to miss. We leave the bay of Cala Bóquer and are immediately met by gusty downdrafts rushing down from the mountains. Before long, we are able to hoist the sails. Behind us, the sky turns dark grey and we watch the rain pour down like a thick curtain. Luckily, we stay just ahead of the storm and sail straight into the sunshine. Couldn’t have timed it better. We also make sure to give Nelly some extra love today, it’s her birthday after all. She’s 15 now! When we arrive in Sóller, the search for a good anchorage begins. Our friends Ben and Caetlin from Sailing Donna are already in the bay and send us some helpful tips on which boats are on moorings and which are properly anchored. On our second try, the anchor finally holds. The next day, we head out with Ben, Caetlin, and Thomas from New Hope. First we stop for coffee, then we do some grocery shopping, and finally we walk back loaded with full backpacks and a little cart trailing behind us. Sunday, May 11 is quite rainy, so we take it easy and stay onboard for most of the day. Then, on Monday, May 12, the celebration begins. It is much bigger than we had expected. Early in the morning, we already hear loud bangs all around us. We meet up on Thomas’s catamaran for piña coladas and snacks. With six people, every bit of space is welcome. A little background might help explain what we are witnessing. The celebration is called El Firó, an annual event that commemorates the victory of the people of Sóller over an attack by Barbary pirates in 1561. The entire town transforms into a vibrant historical stage filled with costumes, swords, cannons, war cries and complete chaos. Everyone gets involved. Some people are dressed as Moors, others as Christian defenders. The scenes unfold on the beach, in the bay and in the town square. We all climb into Thomas’s dinghy with snacks and drinks and head into the heart of the action. The battle begins on the water. Pirates approach by boat while fireworks and smoke bombs go off all around us. One even lands in our dinghy. There is so much happening that we can barely take it all in. The pirates make their first attempt to land but are pushed back. They try again at another beach. It is spectacular and we are so happy we got to witness it. After spending hours in the hot sun, we return to Thomas’s catamaran and fire up the barbecue. We enjoy chicken, shrimp, pineapple, coleslaw, pasta salad, and more. It truly feels like a feast. Later, we watch the sunset and spend almost an hour discussing where to sail next. It is not easy to decide with the weather being so unpredictable. The following morning around 10 o’clock, we pull up the anchor and set course for Cala Sant Vicenç.

The sea is like a mirror as we sail out of the bay of Alcudia. I look behind me and already feel a sense of nostalgia when I think of our new friends in the bay. What a unique life we have, and creating new memories and saying goodbye to each other are definitely part of it. Still, it always feels a bit strange, especially when we’ve stayed in one place for a long time. After five months, everything felt so familiar and safe. Today we’re heading towards Cala Bóquer, which, if I could choose, is definitely my favorite bay on Mallorca. As I mentioned, the sea is like a mirror, so we start with the engine on for the first few hours. After that, we can sail, but at a very slow pace. The cliffs along Mallorca’s coastline are impressive, and we can’t help but be in awe of them. Just before entering the bay of Cala Bóquer, I spot a group of dolphins either hunting or playing. At least five bottlenose dolphins, the larger kind. They're still far off, but you can clearly make out their fins and shiny backs. Dolphins, finally! We avoid the Posidonia and drop our anchor in crystal-clear, pool-blue water. People on the shore are lying on the small beach or the rocks, accompanied by a few goats. Small, blue fish swim under our boat. We don’t have any internet here, so we fully enjoy our offline day. The wind shifts, and our chain gets stuck behind a rock. We’ll sort that out tomorrow. That evening, we see the dolphins again near the entrance of the bay. They’re playing with the only fishing buoy floating around. The wind dies down, the sun sets, and the sound of cicadas echoes through the bay. Wonderful! There are no buildings here, so no light pollution, but the sky is so cloudy that we can barely see any stars. We’re in for a quiet night. Greg tells me it rained, but I was sleeping so deeply that I didn’t notice anything. The next day, we leave as the wind picks up again. Our anchor chain comes loose easily. On to Soller!

The Fira de la Sípia has kicked off again, a yearly culinary and nautical festival that celebrates local maritime traditions with the squid as the star of the show. We wander around a bit and have to admit, there is more going on than we expected. Stalls everywhere serve up squid-based dishes, there is a lively market, nautical exhibitions, live music and even a big fair. It is all quite fun, although a little too crowded for our liking. We are simply not used to being surrounded by so many people anymore. Then the weather changes. The week starts with rain and grey skies. For us, it is the perfect time to install our new watermaker, the Schenker Zen30. The strong winds create some chaos in the bay. One of the boats breaks loose and drifts into Stevie’s boat. We see it all happen. Greg immediately jumps into the dinghy. Together with Lluis and a few others, they manage to secure the boat just in time. The owner had been working on the beach and witnessed the whole thing. Thankfully, he was nearby and could safely re-anchor his boat. In the end, both boats escape with only minor damage. On April 19, I prepare for a long hike of 23 kilometers. From Port d’Alcudia, I head toward Albufera, following the 11.5 kilometer trail and then walking the same route back. Along the way, butterflies dance around me, birds sing their sweetest songs and the air is filled with the scent of wildflowers and fresh grass. I feel fantastic. On Easter Monday, the bay is full of life. Motorboats cruising around, jet skis flying by and people paddling around on SUPs. It’s busy but in a fun way. We hop into our dinghy and set course for the little island with the lighthouse of Alcanada. There is not much to do there. A simple path leads to the lighthouse and that is pretty much it. But among the rocks, it feels like a different world. We go searching for treasures and find all sorts of things. Tiny hermit crabs, bright red starfish, curious little fish, swaying anemones and even a crab make an appearance. We also take a short sailing trip around the bay, just about an hour and a half out and back. Conditions are excellent and we sail at a good pace, around five to six knots in fifteen knots of wind. When we return, I drop the boat hook into the water. Of course, it sinks straight to the bottom. Luckily, the next morning the water is calm and still, like a mirror, and we are able to retrieve it quickly. The rest of the month passes peacefully. We catch up with friends, take care of a few small jobs on board, enjoy the quiet moments and slowly begin making plans to set off again. All we need now is a good weather window. With this unpredictable spring weather, that may be easier said than done.

Finally, the first barbecue of the year on board! Such a fun and relaxed way to kick off April. Time is flying and by now we almost feel like locals in the bay. It’s not too busy yet and since we’re not alone here, we’re totally fine with staying put for a while. If the weather plays along, we’d like to do some day trips this month to get back into the sailing groove. We don’t really have big sailing plans for this year. Maybe head towards Corsica and then on to Greece? We’ll see. No fixed route, just going wherever we feel like and following our intuition. At least the first week of April is off to a great start. The weather is amazing, we’re relaxing on board, did a solid 19-kilometer hike from Port d’Alcudia to Coll Baix and back, spent a lovely afternoon on Stevie’s boat and are just soaking in all the beauty this unique lifestyle has to offer.

We’re up early. A quick grocery run, then we head back out to sea. The wind forecast calls for strong easterlies, so we decide to sail towards Port d’Alcúdia already. Better now than battling waves later. Along the way, a lone dolphin glides by, barely paying us any attention. Where have all the playful ones gone? Around three in the afternoon, we arrive in our familiar bay. In the distance, we see Stevie waving at us. We tie up to the buoy and instantly feel at home again. This weekend, Port d’Alcúdia is all about the Fira de la Sípia, an annual celebration of maritime traditions and the pride of the local cuisine: cuttlefish. It promises to be a weekend full of flavour, music and discovery. We’re looking forward to it!

As soon as we’re free from the mooring buoy, we set course for Pollença. The trip takes a bit longer than expected, but the sea is calm and there’s just enough wind to sail so we’re not complaining. We have to tack a few times to stay on course. No dolphins today, but we do spot thousands of Velella velella, drifting by like a purple-blue blanket on the water. It’s kind of magical. By late afternoon, we drop anchor in a nearly empty bay near La Fortaleza. It used to be a military fort, but now it’s a luxury wedding venue. We end the day with a sunset and a laid-back barbecue on the boat.

I wake up with severe stomach pain. I had been dealing with it for two weeks already, but it gradually got worse. Time to see a doctor. Luckily, I can get an appointment quickly after sending a message via WhatsApp. After a short examination, I am referred to the hospital for a blood test and further check-ups. Not exactly how I had envisioned my Monday… So, some logistical planning is needed. The hospital is in Palma, a 40-minute drive from Port d’Alcudia, so we rent a car for the day. When we arrive in Palma, we accidentally go to the wrong hospital (which we only realize after an hour in the waiting room), but I receive good care. After some further tests, I am allowed to leave the hospital after 3.5 hours. Fortunately, I feel a bit better the next day. We still have the rental car for half a day, so we make the most of it. We drive to Cala Bóquer for a walk through beautiful nature: cliffs, wild goats, trees and blooming shrubs, with the highlight being the azure blue Mediterranean Sea at the end of the trail. We take a moment to reflect, eat our lunch and walk back to the car. On the way back, a baby goat greets us. Cala Bóquer remains a magical place. For the rest of the week, the wind and waves come from the wrong direction, blowing straight into the bay. We feel a bit trapped by the weather. But it could always be worse. Apart from a few showers, it stays dry, and the rocking isn’t bad enough to make things fall off the table. As for me, Julie, my condition fluctuates. Sometimes, the pain suddenly hits after eating, only to disappear again after a few minutes or hours. It’s still a mystery. I start keeping a journal, noting my symptoms and what I eat or do each day. And then, it’s the week of my (Julie’s) birthday. The sun is shining and it truly feels like spring. I take a dip in the water, we walk along the coast of Playa de Alcanada, and of course, we celebrate my birthday. Greg prepares a big breakfast and in the evening, we go out for dinner with our sailing friends, followed by drinks at the Irish pub. A lovely evening and I’m grateful for all the great people we’ve met on this journey. After another rough night with strong winds, the real spring weather finally arrives. I can’t wait for long walks, barbecues, swimming and carefree relaxation on the deck.