At sunrise, we are already up on deck, ready to lift the anchor and sail from Alcudia to Pollença. It seemed like a great idea at the time, although after a short night thanks to a cozy barbecue in our cockpit, it feels a bit less appealing. There is a light breeze, so we hoist the sails and sail on a beam reach towards Alcanada. But as soon as we reach the shelter of Coll Baix, the wind completely disappears. We start the engine and lower the sails. As we enter the bay of Pollença, it immediately feels familiar. Our friends are already there: On Y Va, Muhuhu and New Hope. Donna is with us too, they joined the early morning sail. Greg is leaving for Belgium in two days to surprise his sister on her wedding day. In the meantime, he gives me a short but important briefing on how to manage the power usage, which valves to close in case of emergency, how to let out more anchor chain, and most importantly how to start the outboard motor of our dinghy. On June 12, the moment arrives. I start the dinghy’s outboard and drop Greg off ashore. From that point on, I am alone on the boat. Well, almost alone, since our cats are with me and there are still friends anchored in the bay who I know I can count on. The days that follow are actually really pleasant. Life on board feels calm and familiar and I start to truly enjoy the solitude. In the evenings, I often join the neighbours for dinner. We have cozy pasta and pizza nights, Caetlin invites me for her delicious quiche, and afterward we play card games. I feel truly grateful for these warm moments and the support around me. The outboard motor remains a challenge. It fails to start more often than not, which is frustrating. Luckily, Ben is always patient and keeps explaining what I need to do and what to look out for. One evening, I notice a thunderstorm building over the mountains. To be safe, I let out more anchor chain and keep a close eye on the weather. Thankfully, the storm stays away. Aside from a bit of rain and some gusty wind around four in the morning, everything stays calm. My anchor alarm became my closest companion that week. Before I know it, the week has passed and I receive a message from Greg saying he has landed. Soon after, I pick him up at the dinghy dock. George and Sinead from Muhuhu had already left earlier that day and we feel that our goodbyes to the others are coming closer as well. That evening, we celebrate Oriane’s birthday from Bee Sailing. Slowly everyone begins making plans to sail to Menorca. We first need to return to Alcudia to install our new solar panel and to celebrate the splash day of Isa and Benji from Malou. But before all that, we host one last evening on our boat. We cook Asian food and enjoy the atmosphere, the laughter and the never-ending conversations. Saying goodbye is hard. We have spent six weeks almost constantly with Donna and New Hope and at least four weeks with the others. Of course, we know we will see each other again, probably somewhere in Greece, but the farewell still feels strange and a little empty. We lift the anchor and head back to Alcudia to take care of a few final things. Once that is done, we plan to follow the others and continue our journey east.

We hoist the mainsail and sail with a broad reach toward Cap Formentor. Because of the mountains, the wind is very unpredictable with lots of gusts, but there are no waves, so it’s still manageable. We decide to sail a bit further offshore first to find more stable wind and avoid having to tack too often. After a long sail out, we tack to head toward our destination. We decide to sail straight to Alcudia instead of Coll Baix, which doesn’t look all that comfortable from a distance. The VHF radio is busy. Conversations overlap and we hear Spanish, English, French and Italian. Alcudia feels familiar. We drop our anchor and greet all the boats we know, both the ones already here and the flotilla boats – Donna, On Y Va, Muhuhu and New Hope. Shortly after, we see Bee Sailing entering the bay. We met Eliseo and Oriane last year in Ibiza, so it’s nice to run into them here again. On Saturday, the bay is crowded, and unfortunately, we notice it’s not the same Alcudia as a month ago. Jet skis, banana boats, glass-bottom boats, motorboats… and hundreds of tourists relaxing on the beach enjoying the warm weather. Way too busy and chaotic for us. We already miss the quiet winter and spring seasons. But Alcudia has its perks too. We meet Isabelle and Benjamin from Malou again and organize a cozy barbecue with them on our boat. Alcudia is also convenient: we do the laundry, go to the supermarket and visit the ferreteria. Then we lift the anchor and sail back to Pollença, which now feels just a bit more idyllic.

After a fun lunch with the whole group in Port de Pollença, we all decide to head out together the next day to Cala Figuera. The next morning, everyone pulls up anchor and we cruise out of the bay in a little flotilla. The wind that was supposed to show up never does, so the sails come down and we do the whole trip on engine. The swell is pretty big and long, but it’s not too bad. Our El Burro handles it like a champ. With a freshly cleaned hull and a shiny prop, we’re almost a knot faster, and to our surprise, we even end up overtaking a few of the others. We follow New Hope, riding an impressive following swell around Cap Formentor and eventually drop anchor in the insanely clear waters of Cala Figuera. One by one, the rest of the crew joins us: Electric Keith, On Y Va, Donna, Lena, Bohemia and Muhuhu. Not long after, someone throws out the idea of rafting up. At first, I’m not totally sure. The cala seems kinda small for that, but I go along with it. Turns out, it’s way easier than I expected. Thomas helps us tie on, which definitely makes it smoother. The boats are nice and steady, there’s no swell and the whole place is just stunning. We’re tucked in between towering cliffs. That evening, we all gather on New Hope for Indian curry night. The table’s packed with colourful vegan dishes. The food is delicious and the vibes are perfect. We wrap up the night in the cosiest way possible: hot chocolate under a blanket on the trampoline. Next morning, the bright blue water is calling, so I jump in, only to get a sharp little shock... jellyfish. Tiny needles sticking out of my arm. I swim on, but start to feel a bit panicky. The pain’s worse than I expected. I head back to the boat. Luckily, vinegar, hot water, an antihistamine and some cream sort it out. We take it easy the rest of the day: go for a walk, chill and in the evening we set up a beach BBQ. Should’ve known better, really... doesn’t take long before the Guardia Civil shows up. Oops. Campfires and barbecues are a big no-no. We pack up quick and head back to the boats. The next morning, it’s anchors up again as we head off to the next bay.

After a short but peaceful night, we get ready to leave early, aiming to reach Pollença before the wind and rain catch up with us. The engine starts, the anchor is lifted and we set off. Behind the mountainous rocks, the wind is somewhat calm, although we're mostly heading straight into it. Fortunately, the waves haven't arrived yet, so for now, it's a smooth journey. After about two hours, we round the cape. We've managed to stay ahead of the waves and reach the other side without any issues. Unfortunately, the wind then mostly dies down, while the waves start to pick up. We unfurl the headsail, but keep the engine running a bit longer to continue sailing comfortably. We then try sailing under wind power alone, but with less than 10 knots of true wind and a rolling sea that makes the boat rock, it's far from pleasant. So the engine goes back on. We're relieved when we sail into the bay. It's quiet there; only our friends from SV Donna and New Hope are anchored. The water is calm. We tidy up the boat, eat something and treat ourselves to a well-deserved nap.

We are sailing in a flotilla towards Cala Sant Vicenç and keeping in touch via VHF channel 77. Not long after, Thomas lets us know that dolphins are swimming around his boat, and shortly after, we spot them too. Sailing Donna is lucky, as the dolphins swim directly toward their boat. From a distance, we only see occasional splashes and a few dorsal fins. We are clearly the slowest in the group and quickly fall behind, but it doesn’t really bother us. It feels like mid-summer: no breeze, a bright sun and only some gentle swells. The water maker is running, the washing machine is doing its thing and we're making ice cubes for iced coffee. It feels like a luxury sail. Five miles from our destination, the weather starts to change. The sky is cloudy, but there is still no wind. Our friends are already in the bay, which is otherwise completely empty. The surrounding buildings and hotels aren’t exactly a pleasant sight, but the water is crystal clear, and we have a beautiful patch of white sand to drop our anchor on. Dark clouds are rolling in from the mountains, and we hear the first rumbles of thunder, but fortunately, most of the storm passes us by. In the evening, we are visited by the Guardia Civil. They check our boat papers, IDs, and boating license.

Next stop: Sóller! Monday has something special in store: a pirate battle in the bay. It is a re-enactment we definitely do not want to miss. We leave the bay of Cala Bóquer and are immediately met by gusty downdrafts rushing down from the mountains. Before long, we are able to hoist the sails. Behind us, the sky turns dark grey and we watch the rain pour down like a thick curtain. Luckily, we stay just ahead of the storm and sail straight into the sunshine. Couldn’t have timed it better. We also make sure to give Nelly some extra love today, it’s her birthday after all. She’s 15 now! When we arrive in Sóller, the search for a good anchorage begins. Our friends Ben and Caetlin from Sailing Donna are already in the bay and send us some helpful tips on which boats are on moorings and which are properly anchored. On our second try, the anchor finally holds. The next day, we head out with Ben, Caetlin, and Thomas from New Hope. First we stop for coffee, then we do some grocery shopping, and finally we walk back loaded with full backpacks and a little cart trailing behind us. Sunday, May 11 is quite rainy, so we take it easy and stay onboard for most of the day. Then, on Monday, May 12, the celebration begins. It is much bigger than we had expected. Early in the morning, we already hear loud bangs all around us. We meet up on Thomas’s catamaran for piña coladas and snacks. With six people, every bit of space is welcome. A little background might help explain what we are witnessing. The celebration is called El Firó, an annual event that commemorates the victory of the people of Sóller over an attack by Barbary pirates in 1561. The entire town transforms into a vibrant historical stage filled with costumes, swords, cannons, war cries and complete chaos. Everyone gets involved. Some people are dressed as Moors, others as Christian defenders. The scenes unfold on the beach, in the bay and in the town square. We all climb into Thomas’s dinghy with snacks and drinks and head into the heart of the action. The battle begins on the water. Pirates approach by boat while fireworks and smoke bombs go off all around us. One even lands in our dinghy. There is so much happening that we can barely take it all in. The pirates make their first attempt to land but are pushed back. They try again at another beach. It is spectacular and we are so happy we got to witness it. After spending hours in the hot sun, we return to Thomas’s catamaran and fire up the barbecue. We enjoy chicken, shrimp, pineapple, coleslaw, pasta salad, and more. It truly feels like a feast. Later, we watch the sunset and spend almost an hour discussing where to sail next. It is not easy to decide with the weather being so unpredictable. The following morning around 10 o’clock, we pull up the anchor and set course for Cala Sant Vicenç.

The sea is like a mirror as we sail out of the bay of Alcudia. I look behind me and already feel a sense of nostalgia when I think of our new friends in the bay. What a unique life we have, and creating new memories and saying goodbye to each other are definitely part of it. Still, it always feels a bit strange, especially when we’ve stayed in one place for a long time. After five months, everything felt so familiar and safe. Today we’re heading towards Cala Bóquer, which, if I could choose, is definitely my favorite bay on Mallorca. As I mentioned, the sea is like a mirror, so we start with the engine on for the first few hours. After that, we can sail, but at a very slow pace. The cliffs along Mallorca’s coastline are impressive, and we can’t help but be in awe of them. Just before entering the bay of Cala Bóquer, I spot a group of dolphins either hunting or playing. At least five bottlenose dolphins, the larger kind. They're still far off, but you can clearly make out their fins and shiny backs. Dolphins, finally! We avoid the Posidonia and drop our anchor in crystal-clear, pool-blue water. People on the shore are lying on the small beach or the rocks, accompanied by a few goats. Small, blue fish swim under our boat. We don’t have any internet here, so we fully enjoy our offline day. The wind shifts, and our chain gets stuck behind a rock. We’ll sort that out tomorrow. That evening, we see the dolphins again near the entrance of the bay. They’re playing with the only fishing buoy floating around. The wind dies down, the sun sets, and the sound of cicadas echoes through the bay. Wonderful! There are no buildings here, so no light pollution, but the sky is so cloudy that we can barely see any stars. We’re in for a quiet night. Greg tells me it rained, but I was sleeping so deeply that I didn’t notice anything. The next day, we leave as the wind picks up again. Our anchor chain comes loose easily. On to Soller!

We’re up early. A quick grocery run, then we head back out to sea. The wind forecast calls for strong easterlies, so we decide to sail towards Port d’Alcúdia already. Better now than battling waves later. Along the way, a lone dolphin glides by, barely paying us any attention. Where have all the playful ones gone? Around three in the afternoon, we arrive in our familiar bay. In the distance, we see Stevie waving at us. We tie up to the buoy and instantly feel at home again. This weekend, Port d’Alcúdia is all about the Fira de la Sípia, an annual celebration of maritime traditions and the pride of the local cuisine: cuttlefish. It promises to be a weekend full of flavour, music and discovery. We’re looking forward to it!

As soon as we’re free from the mooring buoy, we set course for Pollença. The trip takes a bit longer than expected, but the sea is calm and there’s just enough wind to sail so we’re not complaining. We have to tack a few times to stay on course. No dolphins today, but we do spot thousands of Velella velella, drifting by like a purple-blue blanket on the water. It’s kind of magical. By late afternoon, we drop anchor in a nearly empty bay near La Fortaleza. It used to be a military fort, but now it’s a luxury wedding venue. We end the day with a sunset and a laid-back barbecue on the boat.

Time to head back. We seem well-prepared this time. The boat is neatly tidied up, all loose items are secured, the key has been returned to the marina office and Finn has found a safe spot. After our previous sailing trip, we've become a bit more cautious. The sea can sometimes take you by surprise. There are plenty of waves at the marina entrance again, but luckily they all come from the same direction, making it reasonably comfortable. We keep the engine running until we've passed the tip of the island and the two approaching ferries are behind us. A solitary dolphin quickly swims under our boat. The crossing to Mallorca goes pretty well. There are some waves, but the sails stabilize the boat nicely. Finn is a bit anxious (and who can blame him?) and hides behind a cushion, with only his two ears visible. Meanwhile, Nelly is napping at the bow of the bed — hardcore! A rain shower passes by and the wind picks up. We're going fast! You could almost say we're sailing in a sportive way. We do have to tack a few times to reach Port d'Alcudia. As soon as we enter the Bay of Alcudia, the waves calm down. The last miles always seem the longest, but after a long journey, we grab the mooring buoy in our familiar bay. It almost feels a little like coming home.

Right at 7 o’clock, just before sunrise, we cast off the mooring and head out. The wind has almost completely died down, so we motorsail with the mainsail towards the breathtaking glow of the rising sun. A perfect start to Greg’s birthday! Past the little island of Alcanada, we set course for Menorca. From here, it’s a straight shot to Ciutadella! There’s still only a light breeze, but that’s fine. After a whole winter, the engine could use a good run. The waves make the boat roll a bit and Finn isn’t feeling great. But he goes inside and eats his food, so it can’t be that bad. We’re cruising along at around four knots, perfect! I keep hoping to spot some dolphins. Then the wind picks up and we start flying over the water, regularly hitting over 5.5 knots. The waves get rougher and the boat slides around now and then, but overall, it’s still comfortable. At times, the wind gusts over 30 knots, making things more intense, especially with the choppy waves. We furl the genoa, but the boat stays steady. We steer by hand more often to give our autopilot a break. When the wind dies down again, the waves stick around, making it really uncomfortable. We turn the engine back on, but the boat is getting thrown around in all directions. Then things get even worse—the wind picks up again, this time from the south. Waves are coming at us from every angle. We unfurl a bit of genoa, which helps slightly, but it still feels awful. Turning back isn’t an option with these conditions, so we have no choice but to push on. At one point, Greg grabs onto a handle for support, and a massive wave hits. The thing just snaps off in his hand! The last five miles are brutal. The waves throw us around, and a few times, we nearly lose control. The entrance to the harbor is rough, with waves crashing against the rocks, but we power through at full throttle. Finally, inside the channel, the wind and waves settle, and we manage to dock without any problems. We moor up at a finger pontoon, no help needed. What a birthday sail. The boat is a disaster zone. Bikes have come loose, the cockpit is a mess and inside, it looks like a bomb went off. We do a quick cleanup, check in at the marina, and then just crash for a bit. We’re completely wiped out. And just as we’re settling in, a massive thunderstorm rolls through with heavy rain. At least we didn’t have to deal with that out at sea! The harbor is peaceful now, so we head into town for some food.