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El Burro
Antwerp
We are Greg, Julie and Nelly, Finn (our cats), the El Burro crew. In August 2022 we moved aboard our 33ft sailing vessel. We are currently sailing in the Mediterranean.
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After a short but peaceful night, we get ready to leave early, aiming to reach Pollença before the wind and rain catch up with us. The engine starts, the anchor is lifted and we set off. Behind the mountainous rocks, the wind is somewhat calm, although we're mostly heading straight into it. Fortunately, the waves haven't arrived yet, so for now, it's a smooth journey. After about two hours, we round the cape. We've managed to stay ahead of the waves and reach the other side without any issues. Unfortunately, the wind then mostly dies down, while the waves start to pick up. We unfurl the headsail, but keep the engine running a bit longer to continue sailing comfortably. We then try sailing under wind power alone, but with less than 10 knots of true wind and a rolling sea that makes the boat rock, it's far from pleasant. So the engine goes back on. We're relieved when we sail into the bay. It's quiet there; only our friends from SV Donna and New Hope are anchored. The water is calm. We tidy up the boat, eat something and treat ourselves to a well-deserved nap.
We are sailing in a flotilla towards Cala Sant Vicenç and keeping in touch via VHF channel 77. Not long after, Thomas lets us know that dolphins are swimming around his boat, and shortly after, we spot them too. Sailing Donna is lucky, as the dolphins swim directly toward their boat. From a distance, we only see occasional splashes and a few dorsal fins. We are clearly the slowest in the group and quickly fall behind, but it doesnât really bother us. It feels like mid-summer: no breeze, a bright sun and only some gentle swells. The water maker is running, the washing machine is doing its thing and we're making ice cubes for iced coffee. It feels like a luxury sail. Five miles from our destination, the weather starts to change. The sky is cloudy, but there is still no wind. Our friends are already in the bay, which is otherwise completely empty. The surrounding buildings and hotels arenât exactly a pleasant sight, but the water is crystal clear, and we have a beautiful patch of white sand to drop our anchor on. Dark clouds are rolling in from the mountains, and we hear the first rumbles of thunder, but fortunately, most of the storm passes us by. In the evening, we are visited by the Guardia Civil. They check our boat papers, IDs, and boating license.
We rented a car for three days and drove towards ArtĂ . There, we strolled through the charming little town and went for a walk in the Parc Natural de la PenĂnsula de Llevant. At the top of the hill, we were rewarded with a stunning view over the bay. Definitely worth it. The next day, we followed the coastline and stopped in Figuera, Cala d'Or and Portocolom. In Portocolom, we found a bench and had some baguette, grapes and cheese. Simple, but so delicious. One of those little moments that just makes you happy. On our last day with the car, we took care of a few practical things. I had a hospital appointment with a specialist. It was necessary, in theory, but the specialist did so little that it ended up feeling pretty pointless. After that, we made a quick stop at Leroy Merlin. Then we returned the car at the airport and took the bus back to AlcĂşdia. There, we started our round of goodbyes. Although âgoodbyeâ might be a bit much, since chances are weâll run into many of these people again somewhere on the Mediterranean. We had lunch with Margau and Alex from the sailing boat Alma, enjoyed a drink on deck with Isabelle and Benjamin from Malou, and later went out for Indian food. We also ran into Benny and Sonja from Tai Pan, a couple from Antwerp we had already met last year in Mallorca. Always nice to see familiar faces again. The night before our departure, we celebrated Stevieâs birthday with a cosy dinner on her boat. And then the moment came. On Thursday, May 08th, we cast off the lines and set off once more.
Next stop: SĂłller! Monday has something special in store: a pirate battle in the bay. It is a re-enactment we definitely do not want to miss. We leave the bay of Cala BĂłquer and are immediately met by gusty downdrafts rushing down from the mountains. Before long, we are able to hoist the sails. Behind us, the sky turns dark grey and we watch the rain pour down like a thick curtain. Luckily, we stay just ahead of the storm and sail straight into the sunshine. Couldnât have timed it better. We also make sure to give Nelly some extra love today, itâs her birthday after all. Sheâs 15 now! When we arrive in SĂłller, the search for a good anchorage begins. Our friends Ben and Caetlin from Sailing Donna are already in the bay and send us some helpful tips on which boats are on moorings and which are properly anchored. On our second try, the anchor finally holds. The next day, we head out with Ben, Caetlin, and Thomas from New Hope. First we stop for coffee, then we do some grocery shopping, and finally we walk back loaded with full backpacks and a little cart trailing behind us. Sunday, May 11 is quite rainy, so we take it easy and stay onboard for most of the day. Then, on Monday, May 12, the celebration begins. It is much bigger than we had expected. Early in the morning, we already hear loud bangs all around us. We meet up on Thomasâs catamaran for piĂąa coladas and snacks. With six people, every bit of space is welcome. A little background might help explain what we are witnessing. The celebration is called El FirĂł, an annual event that commemorates the victory of the people of SĂłller over an attack by Barbary pirates in 1561. The entire town transforms into a vibrant historical stage filled with costumes, swords, cannons, war cries and complete chaos. Everyone gets involved. Some people are dressed as Moors, others as Christian defenders. The scenes unfold on the beach, in the bay and in the town square. We all climb into Thomasâs dinghy with snacks and drinks and head into the heart of the action. The battle begins on the water. Pirates approach by boat while fireworks and smoke bombs go off all around us. One even lands in our dinghy. There is so much happening that we can barely take it all in. The pirates make their first attempt to land but are pushed back. They try again at another beach. It is spectacular and we are so happy we got to witness it. After spending hours in the hot sun, we return to Thomasâs catamaran and fire up the barbecue. We enjoy chicken, shrimp, pineapple, coleslaw, pasta salad, and more. It truly feels like a feast. Later, we watch the sunset and spend almost an hour discussing where to sail next. It is not easy to decide with the weather being so unpredictable. The following morning around 10 oâclock, we pull up the anchor and set course for Cala Sant Vicenç.
The sea is like a mirror as we sail out of the bay of Alcudia. I look behind me and already feel a sense of nostalgia when I think of our new friends in the bay. What a unique life we have, and creating new memories and saying goodbye to each other are definitely part of it. Still, it always feels a bit strange, especially when weâve stayed in one place for a long time. After five months, everything felt so familiar and safe. Today weâre heading towards Cala BĂłquer, which, if I could choose, is definitely my favorite bay on Mallorca. As I mentioned, the sea is like a mirror, so we start with the engine on for the first few hours. After that, we can sail, but at a very slow pace. The cliffs along Mallorcaâs coastline are impressive, and we canât help but be in awe of them. Just before entering the bay of Cala BĂłquer, I spot a group of dolphins either hunting or playing. At least five bottlenose dolphins, the larger kind. They're still far off, but you can clearly make out their fins and shiny backs. Dolphins, finally! We avoid the Posidonia and drop our anchor in crystal-clear, pool-blue water. People on the shore are lying on the small beach or the rocks, accompanied by a few goats. Small, blue fish swim under our boat. We donât have any internet here, so we fully enjoy our offline day. The wind shifts, and our chain gets stuck behind a rock. Weâll sort that out tomorrow. That evening, we see the dolphins again near the entrance of the bay. Theyâre playing with the only fishing buoy floating around. The wind dies down, the sun sets, and the sound of cicadas echoes through the bay. Wonderful! There are no buildings here, so no light pollution, but the sky is so cloudy that we can barely see any stars. Weâre in for a quiet night. Greg tells me it rained, but I was sleeping so deeply that I didnât notice anything. The next day, we leave as the wind picks up again. Our anchor chain comes loose easily. On to Soller!
The Fira de la SĂpia has kicked off again, a yearly culinary and nautical festival that celebrates local maritime traditions with the squid as the star of the show. We wander around a bit and have to admit, there is more going on than we expected. Stalls everywhere serve up squid-based dishes, there is a lively market, nautical exhibitions, live music and even a big fair. It is all quite fun, although a little too crowded for our liking. We are simply not used to being surrounded by so many people anymore. Then the weather changes. The week starts with rain and grey skies. For us, it is the perfect time to install our new watermaker, the Schenker Zen30. The strong winds create some chaos in the bay. One of the boats breaks loose and drifts into Stevieâs boat. We see it all happen. Greg immediately jumps into the dinghy. Together with Lluis and a few others, they manage to secure the boat just in time. The owner had been working on the beach and witnessed the whole thing. Thankfully, he was nearby and could safely re-anchor his boat. In the end, both boats escape with only minor damage. On April 19, I prepare for a long hike of 23 kilometers. From Port dâAlcudia, I head toward Albufera, following the 11.5 kilometer trail and then walking the same route back. Along the way, butterflies dance around me, birds sing their sweetest songs and the air is filled with the scent of wildflowers and fresh grass. I feel fantastic. On Easter Monday, the bay is full of life. Motorboats cruising around, jet skis flying by and people paddling around on SUPs. Itâs busy but in a fun way. We hop into our dinghy and set course for the little island with the lighthouse of Alcanada. There is not much to do there. A simple path leads to the lighthouse and that is pretty much it. But among the rocks, it feels like a different world. We go searching for treasures and find all sorts of things. Tiny hermit crabs, bright red starfish, curious little fish, swaying anemones and even a crab make an appearance. We also take a short sailing trip around the bay, just about an hour and a half out and back. Conditions are excellent and we sail at a good pace, around five to six knots in fifteen knots of wind. When we return, I drop the boat hook into the water. Of course, it sinks straight to the bottom. Luckily, the next morning the water is calm and still, like a mirror, and we are able to retrieve it quickly. The rest of the month passes peacefully. We catch up with friends, take care of a few small jobs on board, enjoy the quiet moments and slowly begin making plans to set off again. All we need now is a good weather window. With this unpredictable spring weather, that may be easier said than done.
Finally, the first barbecue of the year on board! Such a fun and relaxed way to kick off April. Time is flying and by now we almost feel like locals in the bay. Itâs not too busy yet and since weâre not alone here, weâre totally fine with staying put for a while. If the weather plays along, weâd like to do some day trips this month to get back into the sailing groove. We donât really have big sailing plans for this year. Maybe head towards Corsica and then on to Greece? Weâll see. No fixed route, just going wherever we feel like and following our intuition. At least the first week of April is off to a great start. The weather is amazing, weâre relaxing on board, did a solid 19-kilometer hike from Port dâAlcudia to Coll Baix and back, spent a lovely afternoon on Stevieâs boat and are just soaking in all the beauty this unique lifestyle has to offer.
Weâre up early. A quick grocery run, then we head back out to sea. The wind forecast calls for strong easterlies, so we decide to sail towards Port dâAlcĂşdia already. Better now than battling waves later. Along the way, a lone dolphin glides by, barely paying us any attention. Where have all the playful ones gone? Around three in the afternoon, we arrive in our familiar bay. In the distance, we see Stevie waving at us. We tie up to the buoy and instantly feel at home again. This weekend, Port dâAlcĂşdia is all about the Fira de la SĂpia, an annual celebration of maritime traditions and the pride of the local cuisine: cuttlefish. It promises to be a weekend full of flavour, music and discovery. Weâre looking forward to it!
As soon as weâre free from the mooring buoy, we set course for Pollença. The trip takes a bit longer than expected, but the sea is calm and thereâs just enough wind to sail so weâre not complaining. We have to tack a few times to stay on course. No dolphins today, but we do spot thousands of Velella velella, drifting by like a purple-blue blanket on the water. Itâs kind of magical. By late afternoon, we drop anchor in a nearly empty bay near La Fortaleza. It used to be a military fort, but now itâs a luxury wedding venue. We end the day with a sunset and a laid-back barbecue on the boat.
I wake up with severe stomach pain. I had been dealing with it for two weeks already, but it gradually got worse. Time to see a doctor. Luckily, I can get an appointment quickly after sending a message via WhatsApp. After a short examination, I am referred to the hospital for a blood test and further check-ups. Not exactly how I had envisioned my Monday⌠So, some logistical planning is needed. The hospital is in Palma, a 40-minute drive from Port dâAlcudia, so we rent a car for the day. When we arrive in Palma, we accidentally go to the wrong hospital (which we only realize after an hour in the waiting room), but I receive good care. After some further tests, I am allowed to leave the hospital after 3.5 hours. Fortunately, I feel a bit better the next day. We still have the rental car for half a day, so we make the most of it. We drive to Cala BĂłquer for a walk through beautiful nature: cliffs, wild goats, trees and blooming shrubs, with the highlight being the azure blue Mediterranean Sea at the end of the trail. We take a moment to reflect, eat our lunch and walk back to the car. On the way back, a baby goat greets us. Cala BĂłquer remains a magical place. For the rest of the week, the wind and waves come from the wrong direction, blowing straight into the bay. We feel a bit trapped by the weather. But it could always be worse. Apart from a few showers, it stays dry, and the rocking isnât bad enough to make things fall off the table. As for me, Julie, my condition fluctuates. Sometimes, the pain suddenly hits after eating, only to disappear again after a few minutes or hours. Itâs still a mystery. I start keeping a journal, noting my symptoms and what I eat or do each day. And then, itâs the week of my (Julieâs) birthday. The sun is shining and it truly feels like spring. I take a dip in the water, we walk along the coast of Playa de Alcanada, and of course, we celebrate my birthday. Greg prepares a big breakfast and in the evening, we go out for dinner with our sailing friends, followed by drinks at the Irish pub. A lovely evening and Iâm grateful for all the great people weâve met on this journey. After another rough night with strong winds, the real spring weather finally arrives. I canât wait for long walks, barbecues, swimming and carefree relaxation on the deck.
After almost five months on Mallorca, we set foot on a new island. After a tough crossing (see previous blog), we arrived in Ciutadella, a charming harbor town on the Menorcan coast. Despite our fatigue, we donât want to let Gregâs birthday pass unnoticed. After a refreshing nap, we take a warm shower and decide to have dinner at a cozy pizzeria. Our boat is docked in the Ports IB marina, where we are joined by four other inhabited boats at the pier. One of the first things we notice is the countless stranded Velella velella lining the harborâs edge. Velella velella, also known as âby-the-wind sailors,â are fascinating, floating colonial organisms. They look like small, blue disks with a transparent âsailâ that allows the wind to carry them across the sea. Although they resemble jellyfish, they belong to the hydrozoa, a different group within the cnidarians. When they wash ashore in large numbers, they create a striking blue carpet on beaches and in harbors. Their massive presence often indicates shifting wind directions and ocean currents. The next day, we have a vet appointment for Finn. He needs a new rabies vaccination and a general check-up. Finn is not thrilled about it and meows the entire way to the vet from inside his backpack. Once there, he tries to hide in my sweater but patiently endures all the examinations. The verdict: Finn needs to go on a diet and the vet advises us to remove the white spot (a type of scar tissue) on his head. Luckily, he is otherwise completely healthy! Just in time for the next rain shower, we make it back to the boat. As soon as the weather clears, we head out to explore the town. Unfortunately, it looks a bit deserted. The shops and most restaurants are still closed and the streets are empty. The gloomy weather likely plays a role in this. A poster on the theaterâs facade catches my attention. I quickly book tickets online, and that evening, we are immersed for 80 minutes in the intense world of flamenco. More rain the next day, but we donât let it dampen our spirits. Between showers, we explore the city, which feels livelier now that itâs the weekend. We stroll through the market, buy sobrasada, taste tapas at El Hogar del Pollo and browse the small, cozy shops Ciutadella has to offer. In the late afternoon, we prepare the boat for departure. Originally, we had planned to sail from Menorca to France, but the weather forecasts for the coming days and weeks are not favorable. So, we decide to return to our familiar bay in Port dâAlcudia. We end the day with a beautiful sunset. A perfect farewell to Ciutadella before setting sail once again.
The new month begins with gloomy weather. The sky is gray, a cold north wind blows harshly, and dark clouds predict rain. We do the laundryâthe basket was overflowing againâand take a beach walk. The sand, whipped up by the wind, stings my eyes. This isnât quite how we imagined the start of the spring month. The next day is Sunday and we head to the market. There are more stalls and itâs bustling with activity. Tourists are returning to Mallorca, we notice it everywhere. Restaurants that were closed all winter get a fresh coat of paint and hotels set out their parasols and beach chairs. Fortunately, the number of boats in the bay remains limited. That evening, weâre at Isa and Benjaminâs for a cheese fondue, perfect for this dreary weather. We end the night with a card game, Ravine. For those unfamiliar: you work together to survive after a plane crash on an island. Really fun! Monday, March 3rd. Greg replaces the water filters while I give the boat a thorough cleaning. Afterward, we pick up a Too Good To Go package and treat ourselves to an ice cream on a terrace. The sun isnât shining, but it still tastes great! We also get a croissant, a neapolitana roll and five pieces of cake. A little celebration! The next day, I sleep in. The wind howls, and the creaking of the mooring lines on the buoy keeps me awake. Low on energy, I occupy myself with creative tasks on board: drawing, writing and relaxing. The following day, Greg hosts a splicing workshop with Isa and Benjamin. Itâs a cozy afternoon aboard Malou while the weather outside remains gray and rainy. In the evening, we enjoy delicious Indian food at Bombay Beach. Saturday, March 8th, the weather clears up. Early in the morning, we head to the marina to prepare the boat. Isa and Benjamin have rented a car and we take a road trip to Sant Elm, a picturesque coastal village in southwest Mallorca. Itâs like a postcard: houses draped with bougainvillea in every shade of purple, the azure Mediterranean Sea as a backdrop and the rugged silhouette of Dragonera. The sun shines, people enjoy drinks and snacks on terraces, exactly what we do too. After a short walk, the weather turns, so itâs time for practical errands. We drive to Leroy Merlin and Bauhaus. On Sunday, we skip the market and tackle a to-do list: rinsing the boat, tidying up inside, filling the water tank, doing laundry. In the evening, we reward ourselves with Indian food from our new favorite restaurant. A table full of goodiesâpure happiness. The next day, it rains buckets. The streets flood quickly. We go shopping, hopping from awning to awning to avoid the worst of it. Soaked, we return to the boat with a full cart. We load everything in, shower quickly and check out of the marina. Just in time, we take the buoy in the bay as a thunderstorm makes visibility zero. We havenât seen this much rain in a long time. Luckily, it clears up later. That evening, Lluis and Isabelle visit, and we have a cozy night aboard El Burro. Tuesday was supposed to be our departure day, but the wind and waves keep us put. So, a lazy day on board it is. The next day, we get the boat truly ready. On March 13th, Gregâs birthday, we sail out of the bay with a beautiful sunrise.
Time to head back. We seem well-prepared this time. The boat is neatly tidied up, all loose items are secured, the key has been returned to the marina office and Finn has found a safe spot. After our previous sailing trip, we've become a bit more cautious. The sea can sometimes take you by surprise. There are plenty of waves at the marina entrance again, but luckily they all come from the same direction, making it reasonably comfortable. We keep the engine running until we've passed the tip of the island and the two approaching ferries are behind us. A solitary dolphin quickly swims under our boat. The crossing to Mallorca goes pretty well. There are some waves, but the sails stabilize the boat nicely. Finn is a bit anxious (and who can blame him?) and hides behind a cushion, with only his two ears visible. Meanwhile, Nelly is napping at the bow of the bed â hardcore! A rain shower passes by and the wind picks up. We're going fast! You could almost say we're sailing in a sportive way. We do have to tack a few times to reach Port d'Alcudia. As soon as we enter the Bay of Alcudia, the waves calm down. The last miles always seem the longest, but after a long journey, we grab the mooring buoy in our familiar bay. It almost feels a little like coming home.
Right at 7 oâclock, just before sunrise, we cast off the mooring and head out. The wind has almost completely died down, so we motorsail with the mainsail towards the breathtaking glow of the rising sun. A perfect start to Gregâs birthday! Past the little island of Alcanada, we set course for Menorca. From here, itâs a straight shot to Ciutadella! Thereâs still only a light breeze, but thatâs fine. After a whole winter, the engine could use a good run. The waves make the boat roll a bit and Finn isnât feeling great. But he goes inside and eats his food, so it canât be that bad. Weâre cruising along at around four knots, perfect! I keep hoping to spot some dolphins. Then the wind picks up and we start flying over the water, regularly hitting over 5.5 knots. The waves get rougher and the boat slides around now and then, but overall, itâs still comfortable. At times, the wind gusts over 30 knots, making things more intense, especially with the choppy waves. We furl the genoa, but the boat stays steady. We steer by hand more often to give our autopilot a break. When the wind dies down again, the waves stick around, making it really uncomfortable. We turn the engine back on, but the boat is getting thrown around in all directions. Then things get even worseâthe wind picks up again, this time from the south. Waves are coming at us from every angle. We unfurl a bit of genoa, which helps slightly, but it still feels awful. Turning back isnât an option with these conditions, so we have no choice but to push on. At one point, Greg grabs onto a handle for support, and a massive wave hits. The thing just snaps off in his hand! The last five miles are brutal. The waves throw us around, and a few times, we nearly lose control. The entrance to the harbor is rough, with waves crashing against the rocks, but we power through at full throttle. Finally, inside the channel, the wind and waves settle, and we manage to dock without any problems. We moor up at a finger pontoon, no help needed. What a birthday sail. The boat is a disaster zone. Bikes have come loose, the cockpit is a mess and inside, it looks like a bomb went off. We do a quick cleanup, check in at the marina, and then just crash for a bit. Weâre completely wiped out. And just as weâre settling in, a massive thunderstorm rolls through with heavy rain. At least we didnât have to deal with that out at sea! The harbor is peaceful now, so we head into town for some food.
The second half of February is calm. We are both down with the flu for a while, so there isnât much action. We spend most of the day either sleeping or sitting in the sun in the cockpit. There are worse places to be sick. Fortunately, after some time, we regain our energy and start exploring again: we go for walks, I explore the bay on my paddleboard, and we take the dinghy out in search of octopuses. We donât come across any, but we do discover that there are many wrecks along the rocky shoreline near our anchorage. In the last week of February, after a sunny moment in the cockpit, I suddenly feel the urge to jump into the cold water. First, I cautiously dip my toes inâcold, but bearable. Then, I slowly lower myself from my paddleboard into the water up to my waist and finally decide to go all in, submerging my head completely. The icy cold tingles against my skin and my breath catches for a moment, but afterward, I feel completely refreshed and reborn. I warm up in the sun, though my toes remain ice-cold. Luckily, a hot shower works wonders. Did you know that cold water diving has numerous health benefits? It stimulates circulation, strengthens the immune system and boosts endorphin production, giving a natural happiness kick. That evening, we have dinner with Isa and Benjamin at El Negre, which has now become our favorite restaurant in Puerto dâAlcudia. We had been there the week before as well, but to our disappointment, the famous spare ribs were sold out. So, second attempt! Thankfully, Isa and Benjamin had made a reservation. The ribs, served with roasted corn, stir-fried vegetables, fries and a creamy peanut coconut sauce, are absolutely delicious. It turns into a wonderful evening. We end the last day of February with ice cream at Dolce Vita. Long live Too Good To Go! For just 3 euros, we get three scoops of ice cream and two Neapolitana pastries. A perfect way to wrap up the month.
Ten days away from my familiar surroundings. My world revolves around El Burro, the place where I feel safe and have everything I long for. But still, I had booked a trip to Fuengirola, where my mom and my stepdad Dirk now live. The last time I saw my mom was in February last year when we flew to Belgium for a month to visit family and friends. Now that she lives in the south of Spain and weâre still in Mallorca, visiting is fairly easy. The flights were ridiculously cheap: 50 euros round trip, absurd when you think about it. So there I went, on January 31st, boarding that plane. A metal tube meant to get me safely to my destination. I used to love flying; now, it mostly gives me claustrophobic thoughts. Greg came with me to the airport. Saying goodbye felt strange. I canât even remember the last time we spent an entire day apart. People sometimes ask how we manage to be together all the time, but honestly, it doesnât bother me. Maybe thatâs a good sign? When I arrived in MĂĄlaga, I walked to the exit with a nervous feeling. And there they were: mom and Dirk. Because we video call often, seeing them again felt familiar, as if it had only been a week. We took the train to Fuengirola and I was curious about their apartment and how they lived there. It felt both strange and familiar at the same time, like stepping into a book whose beginning I knew but whose continuation was still unknown. That evening, we had dinner together and caught up. It felt good to have mom and Dirk close, though I did miss Greg. But traveling with two cats by plane? Impossible. Especially with one whoâs afraid of the sound of an engine. During my stay, I had also booked a trip to the Caminito del Rey, a famous hiking trail through an impressive gorge. Once one of the most dangerous paths in the world, but since its renovation in 2015, itâs safe and accessible to tourists. The bus ride there took us past endless lemon and orange groves. The scent of ripe fruit filled the air and the sun painted the landscape golden yellow. Upon arrival, we were given helmets and followed the guide along the wooden path high above the river. The views were breathtaking and we even saw vultures soaring above the mountains. Sometimes, I paused, looked around, and tried to take it all in: the immense depth below me, the soft whisper of the wind through the gorge, the distant cliffs standing out against the bright blue sky. The guide shared interesting facts about the history and nature of the area. Would I do it again? Yes, but preferably alone or with Greg. Walking in a group isnât for me; I want to take my time and not feel rushed. Some parts also felt overly touristy, especially when we ended up at various souvenir stalls and food stands. The magic faded a little at that moment.⨠The days flew by: walking through Fuengirola, a trip to MĂĄlaga, and⌠getting sick. The flu got me, probably thanks to the cramped space on the plane or train full of people. Still, I tried to make the best of it and enjoyed the time with mom and Dirk. Walking through Fuengirola together was nice, but I had underestimated how busy and noisy it could be. The contrast with the peace of the boat suddenly became painfully clear. I realised that quietness is becoming increasingly important to me. â¨Saying goodbye to my mom and Dirk was difficult. The knot in my stomach was there from the moment we woke up that morning. You never know how long it will be before you see each other again. Thankfully, video calling exists, but itâs just not the same. Our hug felt tighter than usual. With the flu still lingering, I boarded the return flight. For a moment, I was even afraid Iâd miss my first flight, the crowds and waiting triggered a slight panic attack. My breathing sped up, my head spun for a second. But I recovered, kept going and focused on the moment Iâd be home again. After two flights (with a layover in Barcelona) and two bus rides, I finally arrived in the bay of Alcudia. Just in time for sunset. The sky turned a stunning blend of pink and orange behind the mountains, a painting of colours melting into each other. And then I knew: this is home. The boat is home. Greg is home. The cats are home. I took a deep breath and felt the tension from the journey slowly fade away. And just like that, I felt so much better.
Hey everyone, Our latest episode (#21) is now live! This time, we take you through the highs and lows of anchoring in MallorcaâJanuary was definitely a month of contrasts. Watch it here: https://youtu.be/-tDIOHcmiJs?feature=shared Enjoy!
The new year starts off quietly. The water is like glass and the mornings feel incredibly peaceful. We soak up the early sun, cuddle with the cats on deck and take in the beauty around us. Itâs the perfect slow start to the year. On January 3rd, we pick up our rental car, an absolute steal at âŹ167 for 28 days. Gotta love the off-season. The next day, we head straight into the mountains for a road trip through the Serra de Tramuntana. The drive is stunning: winding hairpin bends, dramatic mountain views and scenic picnic spots (some even have barbecues). We end up in SĂłller, a charming village tucked between the peaks. Over coffee and a pecan-caramel brownie, we take it all in before wandering through the streets. The following days are a mix of adventure and downtime. Strong winds keep us on board on the 5th and 6th, so we hunker down and make the most of it. Greg whips up French toast with homemade kiwi compote from our last Too Good To Go haul, topped with rum raisins and whipped cream. A small feast. By the 7th, the wind has settled and weâre itching to explore. We visit the Reserva Natural de sâAlbufereta, which turns out to be smaller than expected but still beautiful, and then head to Pollensa. Itâs strangely quiet, not quite the lively place we imagined, probably due to siesta time. On a whim, Greg sets the GPS for the Formentor lighthouse and wow, what a drive. More hairpin bends, breathtaking cliffs and a lot of curious goats. The next few days are a mix of practical errands and little adventures. We tackle dentist visits and laundry on the 9th, then set off on another road trip to Valldemossa and DeiĂ . Two of the most picturesque villages Iâve ever seen. Think cobbled streets, stone houses and mountain views that look straight out of a painting. By the 11th, a storm is on the way, so we move into the marina. Perfect timing for some retail therapy. B. and I. tag along as we hit Decathlon and IKEA, where we go all-in on the Swedish meatballs. That night, the storm arrives in full force, howling winds and all. The second half of the month is a mix of sun, rain and everything in between. By the 16th, Iâm fed up with the constant rocking of the boat. The swell makes even the simplest tasks annoying and the howling wind through the rigging drives me nuts. But a few days later, the sun returns and we head out for a long hike in Alcanada. Fresh air, green forests and mountain views, exactly what I needed. A few spontaneous trips follow. We plan to visit Fornalutx on the 21st but end up in Palma instead, wandering the streets and stopping for ramen at Shifu. The next day is a quiet one on board. I make pine balm from needles I gathered in December and Greg catches a fish for Finn. On the 23rd, something magical happens. As we sit inside, we suddenly hear the unmistakable sound of a dolphin surfacing right next to the boat. The sea is completely still, the sky full of stars and the moment feels almost surreal. On the 25th, we set sail across the bay, cruising at around 6 knots with a wind speed of 10-15 knots. After anchoring for the night, we return the next day to our âhome bayâ, Alcudia. Then comes the 27th. The day everything goes wrong. The wind is howling through the bay when I hear a loud whistling noise. I peek outside and see our neighbor L. frantically gesturing towards our friendsâ boat. And then I see it. The mooring buoy is still attached to the boat, but it has snapped off, and sheâs drifting straight towards the rocks. I shout for Greg, who jumps into the dinghy. I toss him his phone and he speeds off. L. picks up S. in his dinghy and they race to help. But before they can get there, it happens. The boat hits the rocks (or maybe the seabed, weâre still not sure). From our boat, I feel completely helpless as Greg and the others do everything they can to save her. He climbs on board, quickly starts the engine (thank god B. and I. explained how it works before leaving for their home country) and reverses out. Luckily, the boat doesnât seem to be taking on water. The rescue is far from over. As they try to drop the anchor, it gets tangled in an octopus trap on the seabed. Meanwhile, S.âs boat also breaks free. L. and S. manage to secure her just in time. Itâs complete chaos. Greg eventually frees the anchor from our friendsâ boat and the plan is to keep her moving until B. arrives. Heâs already on his way back, completely unaware of the full extent of the situation. When B. arrives, Greg guides the boat safely into the marina. My hero. I couldnât be prouder of how he handled everything. And Iâm beyond grateful for the sailing community. We may all be out here doing our own thing, but when things go wrong, everyone steps up. That night, I barely sleep. Every gust of wind puts me on edge and I keep an eye on our anchor alarm. One thingâs for sure, Iâll never fully trust a mooring buoy again. The last few days of January are calmer. We go on a beautiful hike near Coll Baix, soaking in the views and laughing at pushy goats trying to steal our lunch. On the 30th, I pack my bags. Iâm heading to Fuengirola for ten days to visit my mom and stepdad. It feels strange leaving Greg, the cats and the boat behind. I canât even remember the last time I spent a day without him. But Iâm also looking forward to some quality time with my mom. On the 31st, we drive through pouring rain to return the rental car before I catch my flight to MĂĄlaga. Itâs been a wild month. Peaceful mornings, terrifying storms, rainy days spent curled up inside and sunny adventures in the mountains. A month full of contrasts. Just like life at sea.
Hey everyone, Episode 20 is now live on YouTube! Join us as we spend the final month of 2024 in winter paradise Mallorca. Watch here: https://youtu.be/58nRUWtCT-4?feature=shared Iâd love to hear your thoughts. Feel free to leave a comment, drop a like and subscribe if you enjoy it. Your support means a lot! Muchas gracias, The El Burro Crew
Hi everyone, Happy New Year! I hope the year is off to a great start for you all. Iâm excited to share my latest YouTube video where we set sail to Cabrera, a small island just south of Mallorca. Iâd love to hear your thoughts. Feel free to leave a comment, drop a like and subscribe if you enjoy it. Your support means a lot! Muchas gracias, The El Burro Crew
After sailing for two miles, we anchor in a bay that immediately puts us at ease. The scenery around us is like a picture postcard: golden beaches, towering mountains and lush nature all around. If only the hotels along the beach were gone, the view would be perfect. We lower the dinghy to explore the area and soon find ourselves in a cosy little cafĂŠ called Patagonia. Looking at the display, I spot them: cinnamon rolls. I've been craving them for ages! I couldn't be happier with my hot coffee and my sticky, sweet bun. Sometimes life really doesn't need to be any more complicated. It doesn't take long to realise that this place has everything we need. The anchorage is well protected and if the weather changes there's a nearby marina where we can find shelter and fill our water tanks. There's a large supermarket a short distance away, while the local cafes and bakeries feel like little hidden gems. The area is also perfect for adventurers, with beautiful walking trails just waiting to be explored. We're soon joined by Isabelle and Benjamin from Malou. They'd been at the marina for a while, but decided to anchor with us in the bay. In the evening they invite us for dinner on their boat and we spend the night swapping stories. It's as if we've known each other for ages, even though we've only recently met in Almerimar. The next morning we set off together on a 15 kilometer walk. The trail takes us from Alcudia to Alcanada and back, along the coast and through forests, with views that leave us speechless at every turn. The nature here is simply breathtaking. Tired but happy, we end the day at the Patagonia cafĂŠ, where we enjoy a hot chocolate and tea. Sunday mornings start with a visit to the market in Alcudia's old town. The square is bustling with stalls full of fresh produce and the whole town seems to be there. It's such a lively, welcoming atmosphere. Later we meet Alex, a friend we met earlier in Ibiza. He's heading home for Christmas and has big plans to travel around South America with his girlfriend. We share a drink and catch up. Christmas is a mixture of warmth and cosiness. On Christmas Eve, we enjoy a big dinner on board, followed by a film under the covers with the cats curled up beside us. On Christmas Day, Isabelle and Benjamin invite us over. With mulled wine in hand, a delicious lasagne on the table and a fun card game, it's like living in a small, perfect bubble. On the 29th of December, we set off on an 11.5 kilometre walk through the s'Albufera de Mallorca Nature Reserve. The park is a birdwatcher's paradise and we're amazed at the variety of birds we see along the way. December 31st is upon us, a day filled with parties and resolutions for many, but for me it's always a day of reflection. There's something melancholy about the last hours of the year. My mind wanders to all the wonderful moments of the past year, but also to the uncertainty of what lies ahead. It's as if I'm caught between the past and the future, unable to fully embrace the present moment. We keep the evening simple: a cheese fondue, a film and a peaceful time just the two of us and the cats. No fireworks, no big party, just a quiet and intimate way to end a special year. Alcudia has really stolen our hearts, especially with its blend of nature, tranquillity, adventure and friendship. Life here feels like a pause and that's what we've been longing for.
Iâm feeling much better. My back and neck are still sore, but at least I can move again without feeling like a robot. Later, I discover a massive bruise on my back, that explains the pain, of course. The crossing to Alcanada went smoothly. I have to admit: Greg is the true hero of this story. He manages the boat entirely on his own. I feel pretty useless, but I do manage to look around now and then and even take the helm for a bit. Small victory! We drop anchor in an idyllic spot. The water is calm, the sunset feels like a dream, and for the first time in days, I feel a little more like myself again.
I fall asleep and only wake up when the anchor is dropped. The rest of the day, I feel completely drained. I just canât function. I donât even know which bay weâre in, and honestly, I donât care. I just want to sleep, hoping Iâll feel better later. The aftermath of the painful yet soothing massage.
A challenging journey to Porto Cristo, but luckily the crossing takes only an hour. Checking in at the marina goes smoothly. In the evening, we have pizza. The next day, we explore the town and discover that Rafael Nadal lives here. That immediately explains the impressive Sunreef 80 catamaran docked right behind us. Charmed by the surroundings, we decide to stay longer. With bad weather on the way (strong winds and high waves), thereâs no reason to rush. Fortunately, the marinas are a bit cheaper at the moment. The following day, we take out our bikes and head to the Via Verde, a 28-kilometer green route connecting Manacor and ArtĂ . The hilly terrain is sometimes a challenge with our folding bikes, but itâs breathtakingly beautiful. The green Mallorcan countryside never ceases to amaze us. After four hours of cycling and 25 kilometers, we return to our boat tired but satisfied. The next day, we visit Manacor, just a 15-minute bus ride away. Unfortunately, after a few hours, I start to feel pain in my neck, arms and legs due to a pinched nerve. I feel so unwell that all I want is to return to the boat. I spend the rest of the day in bed with a heating pad and arnica cream on my sore neck, shoulders and arms. The day after that is laundry day. My neck and shoulders remain painful and tingling and my whole body feels heavy. Even holding a book is only manageable for a few minutes. I wonder whatâs going on with my body. Is it the long bike ride or is something else at play? On Monday, I spend nearly the entire day in bed. Greg goes looking for a physiotherapist or osteopath and finds Laura, my guardian angel. She offers me an appointment first thing the next morning. On Tuesday morning, I lie on her massage table. She immediately identifies a series of painful knots and explains that my body is completely blocked. According to her, my body is constantly in defense mode due to unresolved emotional trauma. It makes sense, considering my difficult childhood, but Iâm surprised by how strongly my body is reacting. I thought Iâd been doing well lately. After the treatment, I feel empty and confused. While Greg prepares the boat for departure, I take a warm shower and try to process everything.
We had a smooth and relaxing journey to Mallorca. The original plan was to anchor in Portocolom, but Gregâs gut feeling suggested otherwise. Without hesitation, we decided to continue on to Es Fogons. You canât ignore that kind of intuition. Portocolom could wait for another time. Along the way, we made good use of both the headsail and mainsail, and just before sunset, we dropped anchor. To our relief, Finn avoided seasickness for the third time in a row. In fact, he even sat calmly under the sprayhood when the engine started. Could his fear of the engine noise and tendency to get seasick finally be over? Our anchorage offered a rather curious view: on one side, an exotic Burger King and a few remarkably ugly hotels. But if you looked to the right and ignored the rest, it was actually quite beautiful. The next day, we set off to explore the large Carrefour hypermarket. On the way back, it started to rain and we both felt a bit weak. We spent the rest of the afternoon inside: sleeping a little, eating a little and doing nothing else. Just resting. During the night, the swell began to pick up, and by morning, it had only worsened. The forecast promised no relief: the wind would strengthen further in the afternoon and the waves would grow even higher. We decided not to take any chances and called the marina at Porto Cristo. Fortunately, they had space for us. We quickly raised the anchor, it was time to leave!
We wake up and immediately notice the strong swell. Time to lift the anchor. After a quick coffee, we start the engine, but it cuts out right away. Greg checks it and discovers thereâs air in the engine, which is strange. Fortunately, we manage to start it again, but the uneasy feeling remains. The trip to Cabrera is quite tough. We have to sail 11 miles against the waves and occasionally water splashes over the boat. Itâs not ideal, but at least we can sail. Finn is safely tucked in his box with a sweater over his little head, sleeping soundly. He hardly notices anything. When we take down the sails and try to start the engine, the problem happens again. The engine cuts out, and only after bleeding it do we get it running again. It reminds us of the time the engine had the same issue and we suspect itâs again the check valve causing the trouble. We had applied for a permit for Cabrera in advance and Greg reserved a buoy yesterday for 9.5 euros per night. As we enter the bay, the waves finally disappear, and I feel relieved that we are safely anchored. The engine problems, though, donât give much peace of mind. After the stressful journey, we tidy up the boat, take a nap, and then head out to explore the island. We follow the trail to the lighthouse. Itâs immediately apparent how well-marked the paths are and how neat the island is. The nature is, as expected, beautiful. The next day, we continue exploring the island. We walk to the (closed) museum, the botanical garden, and the castle. Thereâs a large picnic area with tables, so we enjoy our lunch there. Afterward, we take the dinghy to the Blue Cave, where, according to rumors, manta rays should be. Unfortunately, we donât see any. The following day, we set out with our El Burro to a spot on the map where, according to the chart, sperm whales, dolphins and sharks are supposed to be. Itâs a deeper area and a gathering spot for these animals because thereâs supposed to be a lot of food. We sail for almost six hours, full of hope, only to see a big, vague splash, something that looks like a giant turd (sperm whale poop?), and the bow of a sunken boat floating by. No sea life to be seen. Nevertheless, it was a beautiful, sunny trip, and in the end, we sailed all the way around Cabrera. We moor the boat back to a buoy in the bay.
A calm day on the water. Greg had already started the engine while I was still in bed. He wanted to sail to the next bay, a journey of 22 miles. I quickly got dressed and took the helm as we left the bay. The wind stayed away, so we motorsailed for most of the trip. The sea was calm, without waves, and Finn and Nelly slept peacefully on the bed. Around three in the afternoon, we dropped anchor. The engine was running well, no oil leaks. So far so good. The next day, we went for a walk nearby and treated ourselves to ice cream. The following morning, we woke up to heavy swell. That could only mean one thing: time to lift the anchor and set off again.
Today was a rough journey. The sea was already restless with waves and the constant passing of ferries only made it worse. Comfort was hard to find. Finn lay curled up miserably on the bench in the cockpit but suddenly jumped onto my lap while I was steering. He burrowed under my arm, making it much harder to steer. Meanwhile, I struggled to stay upright to avoid ending up on the floor with Finn. Inside, Greg was busy too. He discovered a problem with the engine: oil everywhere! It was gushing out through the dipstick, so he was dealing with that chaos while I struggled with Finn outside. To make matters worse, Finn started smacking his lips, an unmistakable sign that he was about to vomit. There I was, on a rocking boat, trying to gently place Finn on the cockpit floor as he threw up, all while doing my best not to panic. Stress level: high. Then came the big question: do we turn back to Palma or push on to our anchorage? In the end, we chose the latter. Greg kept a close eye on the engine to ensure it wouldnât suddenly give out. I was so relieved when we finally dropped anchor in a reasonably sheltered bay. Finally, some peace. Tomorrow weâll figure out exactly whatâs wrong with the engine. The next day, Greg examined the engine right away. To his surprise, he found nothing unusual. He cleaned up the spilled oil and concluded that the dipstick might not have been secured properly. With the waves, oil could have leaked out. The next journey will tell. Since the sun was shining, we decided to go geocaching. There were two caches nearby, which we found quickly. I left El Burro stickers in the caches for the next finder. Next time, I might leave a small treasure. I still have some beach finds on the boat. The following day, I, Julie, was still in bed when I heard Greg raising the anchor. Apparently, we were about to sail 22 miles. đ
We woke up early. Finn always enjoys waking us up at sunrise. This time, it worked out well because we had planned to leave early to weigh anchor and sail to Palma. We quickly managed to unfurl the genoa, though the wind was quite gusty today. Around noon, we arrived in Palma. A marinero guided us to our spot in the Real Club NĂ utico. Fortunately, the marina is much more affordable in the off-season. Checking in was smooth. For those unfamiliar with it: when checking into a marina, they usually ask for your boatâs documents (registration and insurance) and your ID. Outside of Europe, you also get a visit from customs, but within Europe, weâve only occasionally experienced that while at anchor. The rest of the afternoon was spent doing laundry. We had a huge pile built up and were really looking forward to taking a hot shower afterward. Unfortunately, the water was cold, which was quite a disappointment. The next day was a practical day: more laundry, installing a new anchor chain and repairing the engineâs water pump. Our old anchor chain was rusty and kept jamming in the anchor locker, so it really needed replacing. The water pumpâs seal was also leaking, so we took care of that as well. It was a productive day, and in the evening, we treated ourselves to a delicious Japanese meal at Buga Ramen. Friday was less eventful. We did some shopping and, in the evening, enjoyed a lovely walk through the narrow streets of beautiful Palma. On Saturday, we brought out the bikes and rode to a small Christmas market hosted by the Swedish church community. Afterward, we cycled further through the city, past the cathedral and through the center. In the evening, we went to see the Christmas lightsâ opening ceremony, but it ended up being a bit underwhelming. It felt more like an overly drawn-out kidsâ show. In the end, we decided to head back to the boat and save the actual lights for the next day. On Sunday, we took a bike ride to Castell de Bellver. This stunning castle, perched on a hill just outside the city center, was built in the 14th century by order of King Jaume II of Mallorca. Itâs one of the few circular castles in Europe and has served as a royal residence, a prison and a military depot over the centuries. Today, itâs a museum where you can learn more about the history of Palma and Mallorca. The views from the hill over the city and bay are breathtaking. On Sundays, entry is free, which made it even better. In the evening, we went back to see the Christmas lights and this time we truly enjoyed the thousands of twinkling lights spread all over the city. On departure day, we squeezed in one last load of laundry, took out the trash and got some fuel for the dinghy. And to our great relief, we finally had hot showers! It may seem like a small thing, but it felt amazing to have a proper warm shower before setting off again.
It is calm as we pull the anchor up from the clear water and fine white sand. We hoist the genoa and sail at a leisurely two knots. When the wind picks up a bit, we decide to raise the mainsail as well. The sun is shining and the course is pleasant. After a while, we lower the sails and motor toward the bay. On one side, the view is less appealing, but the west side, with its cave and small beach, is stunning. The anchorage is completely empty and we drop the anchor into the white sand at a depth of about 7.5 meters. With some effort, we pull 40 meters of rusty chain out of the anchor locker, but then weâre securely anchored. Just in time, as a boat soon arrives, disturbing the calm with its waves. We think about how busy and chaotic this bay must be in the summer, but for now, itâs wonderfully peaceful. We row to shore with the dinghy. What a beautiful spot! Unfortunately, the silence is soon broken by a group of Germans who have arrived in a small motorboat and are loudly singing along to German music. Sigh⌠We walk to the cave and admire the beautiful inscriptions and carvings. History of the caves of Portals Vells: In the 15th century, a sailing ship was struck by a hurricane. The sails tore and the force of the waves broke the shipâs frame and mast. As the ship threatened to sink, the captain and crew made a vow to an image of the Virgin Mary, which was part of their cargo: if they safely reached the shore, they would build a chapel in her honor at the place where they landed. The storm subsided, and the wind brought the ship to the natural harbor of Portals Vells, where they sought refuge in one of the caves. There, they placed the Virginâs image and carved an altar and inscriptions into the ground and walls. The image became a popular place of worship, especially for fishermen and sailors. At the end of the 15th century, an altar was added to the cave. This Renaissance-style altar, made by local craftsmen, has a simple and somewhat naĂŻve appearance. It bears the coat of arms of the Rocafull family, who were the islandâs governors at the time. Later, a small chapel was built in the left section of the cave to house the image. In 1863, the image was moved to the church of Portals Nous. The cave itself is artificial. According to legend, it was carved out by Moorish slaves after the Reconquista to mine limestone for the cathedral. However, archaeological excavations suggest that the caves were likely Phoenician tombs. A Phoenician ship from 600 BC was even found offshore. Incidentally, the cave smells a bit musty, probably due to too many campfires. The next day, we go on a breathtaking 8-kilometer hike. Weâre continually amazed at how many walking trails are available in this area. The following day, Finn wakes us up at sunrise. We lift the anchor and trade nature for the big city.
We set off around noon, feeling optimistic, but it didnât take long to realise this wasnât going to be an easy trip. The sea was restless, with short, choppy waves that made the journey uncomfortable. To make matters worse, Finn wasnât feeling well, which didnât do much for the mood on board. And then there was the wind or rather, the lack of it. Sailing just wasnât an option today. So, we decided to anchor in Santa Ponça and take a look around the town. Honestly, it was a bit disappointing. Apartment blocks everywhere, Irish pubs on every corner⌠It just didnât have much character. That warm, Spanish charm we were hoping for? Nowhere to be found. The next day, though, Santa Ponça showed us a different side. We went for a walk and ended up in a lovely residential area, with lush gardens and impressive houses. From there, we wandered into a forest filled with winding paths, the kind of place where you can lose yourself in the best way. It was peaceful, almost magical, and every so often weâd come across a spot with breathtaking views. You just have to stop and take it all in, itâs impossible not to. And then, just when we thought weâd seen everything, a dolphin appeared in the bay. That moment made up for so much. What started as a disappointing stop turned into a place weâll always remember fondly.
We had a great sail, though the trip turned out to be a bit longer than planned. What looked like 65 miles on the chart ended up being 80. Fortunately, the journey was relaxing, with a nice mix of sailing and using the engine. Not everything went smoothly, though: one rogue wave made Finn a bit seasick for a while. Otherwise, it was a calm crossing, with no dolphins or other marine life in sight. As we got closer to Mallorca, we started to see more and more branches and logs drifting past the boat. In Port dâAndratx, we found a safe spot to anchor. To make sure we were securely moored, Greg went into the water to attach us to a huge concrete block with a heavy chain. There was no way weâd drift away from here! The surroundings are stunning. The hillsâor are they mountains?âare terraced with houses that seem to climb up the slopes. It might sound chaotic, but it actually has a unique charm. Especially at night, when the lights from the houses transform the hills into a giant Christmas tree. One day, we took the bus to Palma. Line 101 got us to the city center in an hour. Palma is always a delightful city to explore on foot and do a bit of shopping, though I realized I had surprisingly few memories of my previous visits. It felt like a mix of the familiar and the new. Over the weekend, Port dâAndratx hosted the Fira Marina Festival, a small outdoor boat show featuring a mix of nautical stalls and handmade crafts. It was fun to wander around, even though we left empty-handed in the end. We also went on a beautiful hike through the forests and Mallorcan countryside. Along the way, we passed some truly impressive villas, each one more luxurious than the last. We ended the day with dinner at Umami, highly recommended! The highlight of the week was seeing ourselves in the Gazet van Antwerpen. It felt surreal to see our photo and story on their website, but it was also incredibly exciting. It made us pause and appreciate how far weâve come as a couple. One day, it rained heavily, which brought a certain calmness. Greg took the opportunity to collect rainwater while I stayed cozy indoors. On our last day, we walked to the village of Andratx. The cemetery there is definitely worth a visit. Peaceful, beautifully maintained and serene. After spending over a week in Port dâAndratx, it was time to move on. We cast off and headed to the next bay. Our time here was wonderful, filled with special moments, but as always, weâre excited to see what lies ahead.
When we pulled up the anchor at Punta Roja, something very special happened: there was an octopus attached to it! The little creature was probably just as surprised as we were, because it quickly released the anchor and disappeared back into the depths. After this unusual discovery, we decided to sail around Es Vedra. It was a beautiful journey and after a few hours of sailing (with the parasailor), we dropped the anchor in Sant Antoni de Portmany. The anchoring itself turned out to be a bit more challenging than we had hoped. After five attempts, we finally managed to get the anchor properly set into the ground. Sometimes, you just have to be patient, right?⨠The next morning began with thunderstorms. The lightning struck so close that the thunder seemed to vibrate through the boat. Luckily, it passed quickly and the rest of the day was spent lounging on board. I did some painting and in the late afternoon, Caetlin and Ben from Sailing Donna came over to enjoy the pumpkin soup that Greg had made. After eating, we hopped in the dinghy to grab an ice cream in the town and do some shopping at Mercadona. We ended the evening with tapas on board and a few rounds of board games. The next morning, we had churros with chocolate, the perfect breakfast for a lazy day. While I watched a movie (Lord of the Rings), Greg went fishing with Ben. In the evening, the wind began to pick up and we decided to head into the harbor the following day. After a lovely warm shower, I took a walk into town to buy some flowers. The scent on the boat was wonderful. After a quick stop at Burger King and a brief visit to Lidl, we had a cozy evening on board. The next day, I wasn't feeling great. My muscles were sore and I was incredibly tired, so I spent most of the day sleeping.⨠The following day, we decided to move to another bay, but the waves were too high and there was still a lot of swell. So, we returned to Sant Antoni. That evening, while we were having a drink on Donna's boat, we suddenly heard a loud bang. A small trimaran had crashed into our anchored boat! Fortunately, the damage was minor, just a few scratches on the bow. Finn was quite startled, but everything else was fine. We ended the evening with more board games on our boat, joined by Caetlin and Ben.⨠The next day, we went on an octopus search in the bay. Thanks to Ben, I managed to spot an octopus slowly moving along the bottom. Later, Greg went with Ben to Lidl, and when he returned, he told me that there was another octopus by the dinghy dock. Of course, we went to check it out. It was amazing to see the creature up close and the feeling of its tentacles brushing against my finger was strange! There was a brief moment of panic when the octopus wrapped itself around my GoPro and started climbing upwards. It had far more strength than I had expected. After the adventure, it was time to do some more painting in the cockpit, a perfect moment of relaxation. Later, we video-called some friends and watched the Halloween movie Beetlejuice.⨠The next morning, there was heavy rain, giving me the perfect excuse to stay inside and relax. Greg went over to visit the neighbors, while I enjoyed some plum cake, tea and a good book on board. After a few days together, it was time to say goodbye to Caetlin and Ben, who were heading to Valencia for the winter. After the farewell, Greg and I took a 6 km walk to the market through the beautiful Ibiza countryside. The market wasn't very big, but it was nice to get outside for a bit. We had stayed in Sant Antoni so long that it's hard to pinpoint when exactly everything happened, but we also spent a day doing chores on board and took the bus to Ibiza Old Town to wander around and check out some shops. On our last day, we departed in the late afternoon towards Mallorca, ready for the next adventure.
Es Vedra had been on our list for a while. This impressive, mysterious rock formation off the coast of Ibiza is a must-see. It was a beautiful, calm day when we sailed past it. According to the stories, Es Vedra is one of the most magnetic places on Earth, similar to the Bermuda Triangle. Fishermen and sailors often talk about compass malfunctions and strange light phenomena around the rock. However, we didnât experience any of that. No issues with our autopilot or compass, just the imposing sight of the rock standing tall above the sea. After passing Es Vedra and dropping anchor, we took the dinghy to another special place: âAtlantis.â The real name is Sa Pedrera de Cala dâHort, an old quarry where stones for the city walls of Ibiza were once carved. Today, itâs a surreal landscape of eroded rocks, natural pools and art installations. Everywhere you look, there are symbols and figures carved into the rocks, left by artists and travelers who were clearly inspired by the atmosphere. The name âAtlantisâ fits perfectly; it feels like discovering a hidden, forgotten city. When we returned to the boat, the sky began to change colors. The sun sank behind Es Vedra and the entire sky turned warm shades of orange and pink. The rock stood out as a silhouette against the light. Everything was still, with only the sound of the water gently lapping against the boat. In the evening, we stopped by to visit our neighbors, Caetlin and Ben from Sailing Donna. Afterward, I grabbed a flashlight and together with Finn, went looking for fish in the water from our boat. Itâs fascinating how, in the pitch-dark water, a single beam of light can reveal so much life. Finn was absolutely in his element. That night, it was pitch black. No light pollution, no sounds, just nature around us. After such a day full of beautiful spots and little adventures, I crawled into bed, tired but happy. This was one of those days you wonât soon forget.
We pulled up the anchor in Sant Antoni de Portmany and set off. The first few hours were quite rough. The waves caused the boat to roll heavily and Finn got pretty seasick. Itâs always tough for him, but he, and especially we, have learned to manage it by now. Fortunately, once we rounded the corner, the sea calmed down considerably. On the AIS, we suddenly spotted Sailing Donna (Caetlin and Ben) in the distance. What a pleasant coincidence that we eventually entered the same bay together. Running into familiar faces on the water is always a special moment. Once we reached our spot, we dropped anchor and prepared something to eat. But just as we were about to relax, we heard a strange sound coming from under the boat. The anchor chain had wrapped around a rock. That called for re-anchoring. With our anchor securely repositioned, it began to rain. Surprisingly, we didnât mind at all. Rain on the deck always has something soothing about it. It was the perfect time for an afternoon nap. Later that evening, we stopped by Caetlin and Benâs boat for a quick chat. Catching up was a lovely way to end the day. The next morning, we started the day with breakfast on board, joined by Caetlin and Ben. Afterward, we took the dinghy and went exploring a nearby cave. It was dark and mysterious inside, while the sky outside grew increasingly ominous. Fortunately, the rain held off. That evening, Caetlin and Ben came over to our boat and we spent the night playing board games together. It was a fun and cozy end to the day!
We started the day by setting the spinnaker pole on the genoa, but eventually decided to go with the parasailor instead. This gave us a comfortable speed of 6 knots. Along the way, we watched mist and clouds drift along the mountain slopes, creating a beautiful view. Later, we dropped anchor at Sant Antoni de Portmany. The next evening, we enjoyed a cozy barbecue with the crew of @bee_sailing, Oriane and Eliseo. The following day, we decided to enter the marina to take shelter from an approaching storm with gusts up to 35 knots. In the marina, we met Alex and Margau from the boat Alma. That evening, we shared pizza and spent time aboard with Oriane and Eliseo, enjoying drinks and a board game. After the storm passed, we returned to our anchorage and organized another barbecue that evening, this time with Oriane, Eliseo, Alex and Margau. It was a fun-filled evening, complete with a âchicken contestâ and a challenging âspicy test.â The next day, we set out on a solid 11-kilometer hike. Thankfully, it cools down nicely here at night, which is a welcome relief after the warm days. Together, we rented a buggy and set out on an adventure. Later, we heard from the rental company that off-road driving wasnât actually allowed⌠oops! We wrapped up the day with -yes, you guessed itâa barbecue on our boat. The next morning, we enjoyed coffee and breakfast together and said goodbye to Alma, with James Bluntâs âGoodbye My Loverâ playing in the background. The day was a quiet one, with plenty of sleep. That evening, Oriane and Eliseo came by for one last drink to say goodbye.
During our journey to Benirrà s, we unexpectedly found ourselves in the middle of a regatta. As we maneuvered between the boats, we did our best to stay clear of the race's path. Eventually, we found a beautiful anchorage in the bay of Benirrà s, surrounded by rocks and beautiful nature. We took the dinghy to explore the beach, visited the hippy market and then relaxed on our boat. At sunset, groups of drummers gathered on the shore, equipped with djembÊs and various other percussion instruments. Their rhythmic beats filled the air, and it felt as if the entire bay was swaying to the music. Since there were still many empty buoys in the bay, we decided to tie our stern to one of them for extra stability. The next day, we went to the beach, determined to experience the drummers up close, but this time the beach was quiet. Instead, we enjoyed a delicious pizza as the sun slowly set. No drummers this time, just the sounds of the sea, the gentle breeze rustling through the trees⌠and the music from the various beach bars.
We had planned to sail straight to BenirrĂ s, but along the way, we came across a stunning, almost magical bay. Without much hesitation, we dropped anchor and decided to spend the day there. We didnât do much: just some swimming, relaxing on the boat and soaking in the peaceful surroundings. In the evening, we watched the livestream of the Cruisers Awards on YouTube. Unfortunately, we didnât win the award for Best Instagram, but we were still proud to have made it to the finals among so many other great sailing accounts. The next morning, we took a short trip with the dinghy around the bay before lifting anchor and finally heading towards BenirrĂ s.
The wind is strong and gives us a good push, allowing us to regularly reach 6 knots. At each waypoint, the wind shifts, so we have to keep gybing to stay on course. The waves are high, but since theyâre coming from behind, the sailing remains pleasant. The scenery is beautiful. We sail past small, secluded coves that feel like peaceful oases hidden in the landscape. As we enjoy the view, we start complaining about the lack of dolphins. But right at that moment, one appears next to the boat. To our surprise, it completely ignores us and happily swims off to greet a jet ski. After a while, we decide to head towards Cala AigĂźes Blanques. In the distance, we see a few small beaches, rock formations and tree-covered mountains. We pick a nice spot and drop the anchor in about six meters of water. Thereâs plenty of space and the anchor holds well. Our plan is to stay here for a few days and relax. With a stocked fridge, full water tanks and a clean boat, weâre all set. The next morning, Greg dives under the boat and notices weâre uncomfortably close to an underwater rock. Thereâs only about a meter of water between the keel and the rock! Without hesitation, we pull up the anchor and move to a spot with just sand, far from any unexpected obstacles. And what do we do during our time here? We relax on the beach, take a beautiful 10-kilometer hike starting from Sant Vincent and later enjoy a delicious meal at The Boat House. The highlight is an amazing bonfire night on the beach with a few fellow sailors. Itâs moments like these that make the adventure unforgettable.
The waves in Talamanca Bay are difficult. Greg calls the marina in Eulalia and, to our surprise, there's still a berth available. But it's for a 12 metre boat, which makes it a bit more expensive. As we urgently need to fill our water tank, we don't hesitate to tell them we'll be there in two hours. We raise the anchor and set off. I steer the boat carefully out of the bay as there are many shallow areas and hidden rocks just below the surface. Once we're out of the bay, we raise the Genoa. Arriving at the marina, we lay out the fenders and mooring lines, start the engine and roll in the genoa again. We call the marinero, who speaks little English, but uses hand gestures to show us clearly where to moor. We then go to the marina office to check in, but it's closed and the marinero is nowhere to be found. After wandering around the marina for over an hour, we finally manage to check in and get the key to the toilets. We meet our neighbours and end the evening with a stroll around the cosy, touristy town. The next morning we take the opportunity to give the boat a thorough clean, both inside and out, and to fill our water tanks completely. Despite the strong wind, we manage to leave the berth without any problems with the help of our neighbours.